So, old news to most, but a new process for me, we got my 1" bl installed last night! As promised, here is the process in photos for anyone looking into the 1" lift and wanted a glimpse into what they would be getting themselves into.
As a reminder : (What you need)
Qty 12 Performance Accessories 1" lift blocks (Big Block 1"X3")
Qty 2 M12-1.75X150MM 10.9 Bolts (Front of bed)
Qty 6 M12-1.75X130MM 10.9 Bolts (4 for bed, 2 for core support)
Qty 2 M12-1.75X110MM 10.9 Bolts (Rear cab)
Qty 2 Nylok Nuts for Core Support
Qty18 1/2" Grade 8 Washers
Qty 8 5/8" Grade 8 Washers
*Qty 2 Re-use Your stock Rear cab bolts for the Foot-wells*
Qty 1-2 PB blaster (use a few days ahead of time, a couple weeks ahead for salt belt)
Refer to the 1” body lift supplies sticky for a good list of steps, this is short-hand of how we did it.
Here are some shots of the spray points for the core support, and cab mounts, pretty self explanatory. Make sure to also get your 6 bed mounts, I don’t have them pictured.
Make sure to get your Jump seats out ahead of time, its 4-13mm bolts and 2-T45 torx bolts to get them out. Also get your kick panels out so you can roll back your carpet for access to the footwell bolts.
We started with the bed of my Ranger first, it is 6 T55 torx bolts to free it. Do one side at a time, and have the guy planting the lift blocks pay attention to clearances under the bed. My stepside bed was extremely light, we just had one guy pick up the bed while the other planted the blocks. Then we got the bolts and washers lined up with the blocks and got the torque to 55 lb-ft on the bolts after both sides were on the lift blocks and ready to go.
Next up was the cab. We took our time and got out the bolts one side at a time like the bed, loosening but not removing the opposite side. For the cab, we used a floor jack and a block of wood. Take extra care with the engine compartment; watch your brake lines and other trouble spots. This is not nearly as concerning or time consuming as a 3” body lift, but take your time anyhow. For the cab, the core support gave us the most trouble and possibly the most trouble of anything on the truck. Make sure you get the nut well coated with PB blaster; I had a severe brain fart and got the bulk of my coats on the head of this bolt (underside) so it was a total pain. Make sure to thread lock your bolts for the re-install. Before you do a final torque down, make sure all of your body lines are looking good, crooked trucks are not cool. It’s a good idea to take some measurements before you break everything loose so you can go back to those measurements once your blocks are under your truck. After this you can torque em down to 55 lb-ft as well. Overall the process took us 3 hours, about dead on what everyone else in the 1” supplies sticky were ball parking. And this was with a few laptop video intermissions, and a handful of beverage breaks.
Here are some photos after the lift-before the bumper lift.
After finishing the lift, the lower bumper was driving me crazy, so I went right for the Bumper mod right off the get go. We short-handed this process by using a dermal to bridge the gap between the ½” hole drilled instead of reaming the hole out with the drill. The process went pretty quick, about 30-45 minutes and the bumper was back on and we were doing final adjustments. I am much happier after getting the front bumper back in the air a bit; the rear doesn’t bother me as much.
And here is the final product: