Body Lift, HELP...QUESTIONS,Please?
#1
Body Lift, HELP...QUESTIONS,Please?
Hears the situation:
I got the summit #007888... 3" Body Lift for my 1999 Ranger(99' 4x4 extended cab 5-spd 6 cyl.), Expected project time 6-8 hours. BULL %^$# Wow am i in over my head, i had to buy an impact wrench which still cant break the bed bolts loose( 340 ft/lbs impact needs 5.0 scfm, 50 gal compressor runs @ 4.9 scfm). Should be plenty of power right? I used the liquid wrench lithium stuff and all let it set for like 48 hours too. Those puppies aren't budging!
So as of now heres where I stand:
I'm back up at college with no truck. Its at home(2 hours away) with only the cab lifted and the bolts not set or anything. But the cab 3" blocks are under the body and in place, minus the front rubber bushing blocks. Plus all the break lines, radiator, steering extension, shift extension are done. Mind you this was 3 hours of work on friday and all day saturday until like 11 at night I was out there working. Well I could use some help please on some questions about the lift and what I have to do to get it done and get my truck back on the road by the end of next weekend.(2nd of Nov.)
QUESTIONS:
-How in the world do those front rubber bushings come off behind the front bumper so you can slid the 3" space in w/ the new bolt?
-Does anyone have a remedy for removing the bed body bolts cause a 340 ft/lbs impact wont even budge them? Do I need like 600 ft/lbs to break em loose?
-How in the world do I know which new bolts go where, the directions give them in mm. WTF?
-The new shift extender doesn't let 2nd gear slid into gear, do i have to cut the floor board?
Thanks For Any Input, Im just frustrated to all hell right now...Any help would be great!
I got the summit #007888... 3" Body Lift for my 1999 Ranger(99' 4x4 extended cab 5-spd 6 cyl.), Expected project time 6-8 hours. BULL %^$# Wow am i in over my head, i had to buy an impact wrench which still cant break the bed bolts loose( 340 ft/lbs impact needs 5.0 scfm, 50 gal compressor runs @ 4.9 scfm). Should be plenty of power right? I used the liquid wrench lithium stuff and all let it set for like 48 hours too. Those puppies aren't budging!
So as of now heres where I stand:
I'm back up at college with no truck. Its at home(2 hours away) with only the cab lifted and the bolts not set or anything. But the cab 3" blocks are under the body and in place, minus the front rubber bushing blocks. Plus all the break lines, radiator, steering extension, shift extension are done. Mind you this was 3 hours of work on friday and all day saturday until like 11 at night I was out there working. Well I could use some help please on some questions about the lift and what I have to do to get it done and get my truck back on the road by the end of next weekend.(2nd of Nov.)
QUESTIONS:
-How in the world do those front rubber bushings come off behind the front bumper so you can slid the 3" space in w/ the new bolt?
-Does anyone have a remedy for removing the bed body bolts cause a 340 ft/lbs impact wont even budge them? Do I need like 600 ft/lbs to break em loose?
-How in the world do I know which new bolts go where, the directions give them in mm. WTF?
-The new shift extender doesn't let 2nd gear slid into gear, do i have to cut the floor board?
Thanks For Any Input, Im just frustrated to all hell right now...Any help would be great!
#2
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Did you take the front bumper off ? You have to jack up the front high enuff to slide the bushings back in. For the bed bolts I used a pull bar instead of an impact wrench. Have a buddy hold the bit in the bolt and you pull on it. Never had any problems with my extender so I can't help ya there.
#3
try some old fashion brute power with a long *** bar for leverage, and 340 ft/lbs is low, i got one with 520 thinking i was getting one with 650 (fcku snap-on reps, "oh yea.. they just changed the part number." no its a different gun )
anyways, yea use a breaker bar and maybe some pipe or tube on the end of that..
and summit FTL again, 6-8 hours would be with a few guys that had done it before.
anyways, yea use a breaker bar and maybe some pipe or tube on the end of that..
and summit FTL again, 6-8 hours would be with a few guys that had done it before.
#8
We've done a few body lifts at our pittsburgh meets, you should have come. Even with a bunch of guys it takes a while. You will need to remove the bolts from the front body mounts, you need the longer bolts anyway(yes they are threaded and usually a pita). Then you don't have to lift it as high to get the blocks in. The bed bolts can be tough but I usually use a breaker bar and a cheater pipe to get em started. Trent is right, use pb blaster not lithium. Heat can help tremendously, even if its just a propane torch.
John
John
#9
we did, but I would hope you wouldn't if you spent the money on it.
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lol You know when I bought the kit and got it, I let it sit in the box for a few months b/c the instructions were crappy. Took 3 of us like a day and a 1/2. The 2nd time I had my buddy and dad just pick up the bed while i sat under it and placed the blocks haha
#11
i just used a piece of 2x4 as a lever to lift one side of the bed at a time and put the blocks in my self. After i took the time to cut the bed liner it took me about an hour to do the bed..
the cab was an all day affair with 3 of us working and only one person knew what was going on haha
the cab was an all day affair with 3 of us working and only one person knew what was going on haha
#12
-use common sense with the bolts. the longest ones are 200mm then 180 or whatever etc..
-shifter extension may need to be slightly bent forward for 2nd gear to be happy
-i noticed you said "minus the rubber bushings" those need to go back in
-use pb blaster and propane or mapp gas on the bolts with a long breaker bar
-return that 340lb/ft gun. IR makes a 1000lb/ft gun thats affordable. I just bought MAC tools 1100lb/ft gun for work and it rocks, i also have the 1000lb/ft one at home
-the front bumper needs to be off to easily access the core support bushings, they need to be drilled out too
-shifter extension may need to be slightly bent forward for 2nd gear to be happy
-i noticed you said "minus the rubber bushings" those need to go back in
-use pb blaster and propane or mapp gas on the bolts with a long breaker bar
-return that 340lb/ft gun. IR makes a 1000lb/ft gun thats affordable. I just bought MAC tools 1100lb/ft gun for work and it rocks, i also have the 1000lb/ft one at home
-the front bumper needs to be off to easily access the core support bushings, they need to be drilled out too
#14
I had to do the same to mine
Yeah tahts what I did as well lol
Justin was talking about drilling out the bushings, not the bolts.
i just used a piece of 2x4 as a lever to lift one side of the bed at a time and put the blocks in my self. After i took the time to cut the bed liner it took me about an hour to do the bed..
the cab was an all day affair with 3 of us working and only one person knew what was going on haha
the cab was an all day affair with 3 of us working and only one person knew what was going on haha
Justin was talking about drilling out the bushings, not the bolts.
#16
I cut the threaded part of the bushing off, then ran a drill down it to make it all pretty.
took 7 total hours and mostly by myself. HEAT HEAT HEAT!!!! stock bolts are COVERED with locktite.
QUESTIONS:
-How in the world do those front rubber bushings come off behind the front bumper so you can slid the 3" space in w/ the new bolt?
There is a nut ontop of the bushing. I suggest removal of the inner fender to make it alot easier. The bushing you may have to spray some penetrating oil to loosen up the bushing from the mount, then hammer to nudge it out the mount. Then you'd either drill out the threads or cut the threaded portion off. new bolt goes from the bottom, and the nut goes ontop of the core support.
-Does anyone have a remedy for removing the bed body bolts cause a 340 ft/lbs impact wont even budge them? Do I need like 600 ft/lbs to break em loose?
Not enough power. Although...mine are torqued properly and i can break them loose w/ just a 1/2" ratchet. My impact is only a 250lb one. lol. i just found out when looking through this thread.....i got the job done on 2 trucks with MAPP gas and my impact. Get real penetrating oil on those J nuts on the frame. Give it a few mins, and buzz them off. OR...just a buddy w/ a propane torch to heat up the bolts some at the J nuts. Be advised...you MIGHT need new J nuts on the frame.
-How in the world do I know which new bolts go where, the directions give them in mm. WTF?
Well......is there a parts list included in this lift? Use common sense. Break down the parts list and line the bolts up to figure out which their lengths. In a PA kit, there's a total of 14 bolts.
Two 200mm : Front Bed holes
Eight 180mm : Rear Bed holes, Core Support
Two 160mm : Front Cab holes
Two 140mm : Rear Cab holes
-The new shift extender doesn't let 2nd gear slid into gear, do i have to cut the floor board?
Shouldn't have to, but you may need to trim the inspection cover. No big deal.
Hope this helped.
took 7 total hours and mostly by myself. HEAT HEAT HEAT!!!! stock bolts are COVERED with locktite.
QUESTIONS:
-How in the world do those front rubber bushings come off behind the front bumper so you can slid the 3" space in w/ the new bolt?
There is a nut ontop of the bushing. I suggest removal of the inner fender to make it alot easier. The bushing you may have to spray some penetrating oil to loosen up the bushing from the mount, then hammer to nudge it out the mount. Then you'd either drill out the threads or cut the threaded portion off. new bolt goes from the bottom, and the nut goes ontop of the core support.
-Does anyone have a remedy for removing the bed body bolts cause a 340 ft/lbs impact wont even budge them? Do I need like 600 ft/lbs to break em loose?
Not enough power. Although...mine are torqued properly and i can break them loose w/ just a 1/2" ratchet. My impact is only a 250lb one. lol. i just found out when looking through this thread.....i got the job done on 2 trucks with MAPP gas and my impact. Get real penetrating oil on those J nuts on the frame. Give it a few mins, and buzz them off. OR...just a buddy w/ a propane torch to heat up the bolts some at the J nuts. Be advised...you MIGHT need new J nuts on the frame.
-How in the world do I know which new bolts go where, the directions give them in mm. WTF?
Well......is there a parts list included in this lift? Use common sense. Break down the parts list and line the bolts up to figure out which their lengths. In a PA kit, there's a total of 14 bolts.
Two 200mm : Front Bed holes
Eight 180mm : Rear Bed holes, Core Support
Two 160mm : Front Cab holes
Two 140mm : Rear Cab holes
-The new shift extender doesn't let 2nd gear slid into gear, do i have to cut the floor board?
Shouldn't have to, but you may need to trim the inspection cover. No big deal.
Hope this helped.
Last edited by Fx4wannabe01; 10-27-2008 at 12:37 AM.
#22
Hey all, so this breaker bar...Where is the best place to get one. Could I just use a regular 1/2 ratchet or would it slip gears?
I guess heat is a must do to the bed bolts? I have a mapp gas torch....?
When replacing my body bolts would torquing them down with the 340 ft/lbs impact be enough?
How do I bend my shift extender to make it fit w/ 2nd gear fine...?
Thanks for any help...advice is appreciated!
I guess heat is a must do to the bed bolts? I have a mapp gas torch....?
When replacing my body bolts would torquing them down with the 340 ft/lbs impact be enough?
How do I bend my shift extender to make it fit w/ 2nd gear fine...?
Thanks for any help...advice is appreciated!
#24
Hey all, so this breaker bar...Where is the best place to get one. Could I just use a regular 1/2 ratchet or would it slip gears?
I guess heat is a must do to the bed bolts? I have a mapp gas torch....?
When replacing my body bolts would torquing them down with the 340 ft/lbs impact be enough?
How do I bend my shift extender to make it fit w/ 2nd gear fine...?
Thanks for any help...advice is appreciated!
I guess heat is a must do to the bed bolts? I have a mapp gas torch....?
When replacing my body bolts would torquing them down with the 340 ft/lbs impact be enough?
How do I bend my shift extender to make it fit w/ 2nd gear fine...?
Thanks for any help...advice is appreciated!
#25
This Weekends Plan
hey thanks a bunch 04blackedge for all the help man. really appreciate it! I've got a bunch of work to do this weekend to finish up the lift and Im in Pennsylvania so the snow is on its way and the lift needs to get done. i think I'll stop a harbor freight tomorrow and just get a cheapy breaker bar just in case my rachet slips gears. I mean for $8 no big deal. If I can break all those puppies loose then Ill be in good shape.
Once again thanks all for the help...!
Once again thanks all for the help...!