Ranger 1" Body Lift Supplies?
#226
The sizes should be the same, you'll just need 4 more for the bed-I'm not sure on the '10 if just the front bolts are shorter, so you might want to get a couple of extras just to be safe.
Drilling-out the core support bushings is 1) like a 5 minute job, 2) you'll likely destroy the threads when you're walking the OE bolts out, and 3) because of the way that the truck is built on an assembly line, those bushings are apperently threaded onto the core support bolts long before the cab ever meets-up with the chassis, at which point the nuts are installed (or vice-versa-it's been over a year since I did mine). Long story-drill them out.
Just trim the shroud with a Dremel-go a little ats a time, checking for clearance as you go.
MikeR
Drilling-out the core support bushings is 1) like a 5 minute job, 2) you'll likely destroy the threads when you're walking the OE bolts out, and 3) because of the way that the truck is built on an assembly line, those bushings are apperently threaded onto the core support bolts long before the cab ever meets-up with the chassis, at which point the nuts are installed (or vice-versa-it's been over a year since I did mine). Long story-drill them out.
Just trim the shroud with a Dremel-go a little ats a time, checking for clearance as you go.
MikeR
#228
yup, blocks(12) and bolts. thats it. no hose extensions, no ground extensions, no fan shroud clearencing, nuthin.
my shifter hit the factory cup holder in the 02. no issue in the 03, but i had an ex.console in there, so no cup holder to hit. chekc you shifter, and clearence as needed.
get on AIM....
my shifter hit the factory cup holder in the 02. no issue in the 03, but i had an ex.console in there, so no cup holder to hit. chekc you shifter, and clearence as needed.
get on AIM....
#229
hey you seem to be the most experienced i was wondering pertymuch your saying i can just undo the bolts lift the body slide the pucks in and no wires need to be unpluged the streering wheel can stay on things like that? i thank you ahead of time because im planing on doing this this week end please get back to me on this bud
#234
#236
Ok here are my options so far, do they have to be 3" Diameter? I don't see why 2" wouldn't work. Leaning toward aluminum.
Body Lift Pucks
One Inch 1-inch Body Lift Aluminum Pucks from ORD Fullsize 4x4 Parts (2.5" OD)
Can someone please verify 12 body mounts for a 2006 ranger sport 4x4 4.0L?
Body Lift Pucks
One Inch 1-inch Body Lift Aluminum Pucks from ORD Fullsize 4x4 Parts (2.5" OD)
Can someone please verify 12 body mounts for a 2006 ranger sport 4x4 4.0L?
#237
Ok here are my options so far, do they have to be 3" Diameter? I don't see why 2" wouldn't work. Leaning toward aluminum.
Body Lift Pucks
One Inch 1-inch Body Lift Aluminum Pucks from ORD Fullsize 4x4 Parts (2.5" OD)
Can someone please verify 12 body mounts for a 2006 ranger sport 4x4 4.0L?
Body Lift Pucks
One Inch 1-inch Body Lift Aluminum Pucks from ORD Fullsize 4x4 Parts (2.5" OD)
Can someone please verify 12 body mounts for a 2006 ranger sport 4x4 4.0L?
Yes you need 12 blocks
#241
PA would no longer sell blocks separate, only kits they told me.
#242
#243
#244
How did this workout? I am having troubles finding 1" blocks as well and am thinking about going the same route. Did you use a chop saw... or what was the method to your madness?
#245
Sent you a PM, but reposting here so others can see it...
I did get them cut, but the process could still use some refining.
Things that didn't work:
Band saw (unless you have one that can be slowed down dramatically compared to the cheap Black and Decker I was using)
Circular saw
Untested:
Miter saw
Works fairly well:
Hack saw (but it's slow)
Hand saw (take a few seconds afterward to smooth the roughness)
Reciprocating saw (definitely the best way if you can create a good jig)
The biggest problem I ran into was the plastic melting. As it cools it tends to re-form on the back side of the cut, trapping the blade. This wasn't a major problem with the last three options above.
The most important thing that would simplify the process is a good jig to make your cuts clean. I tried using a pair of hose clamps and it helped but definitely wasn't a perfect solution. A bench vise is helpful for the first half of the cut but the clamping pressure causes the blade to bind as you get past the halfway point of the spacer.
If I were to do it again I'd continue looking for a better way to cut them, but I eventually had a set of 12 spacers that were definitely close enough to be functional.
I did get them cut, but the process could still use some refining.
Things that didn't work:
Band saw (unless you have one that can be slowed down dramatically compared to the cheap Black and Decker I was using)
Circular saw
Untested:
Miter saw
Works fairly well:
Hack saw (but it's slow)
Hand saw (take a few seconds afterward to smooth the roughness)
Reciprocating saw (definitely the best way if you can create a good jig)
The biggest problem I ran into was the plastic melting. As it cools it tends to re-form on the back side of the cut, trapping the blade. This wasn't a major problem with the last three options above.
The most important thing that would simplify the process is a good jig to make your cuts clean. I tried using a pair of hose clamps and it helped but definitely wasn't a perfect solution. A bench vise is helpful for the first half of the cut but the clamping pressure causes the blade to bind as you get past the halfway point of the spacer.
If I were to do it again I'd continue looking for a better way to cut them, but I eventually had a set of 12 spacers that were definitely close enough to be functional.
#247
Just an update for anyone looking for blocks, I found my 1 inch ones on https://www.mikellisbodylifts.com/ a week ago for $36.
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Dusty Ranger (01-28-2021)
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