yes 1/2" is the hole size and I would make sure they are at least 1 1/2 dia.

 

ok , but it says that the bed needs larger ones then the body so i shouldn't get them all the same size should i ? sorry to be a pain in the butt !

 

use standard 1/2 washers for everything but the bed.

 

Has anyone done this with a 2wd manual? Will I need to get some kind of shifter extension for this 1" BL? Here's what the truck looks like now...



I'm looking to get just a little higher. Just to verify... I don't need ground extensions, gas filler extensions, ebrake extensions, any adjustments with the radiator, etc...? Do you recomend Grade 8 bolts? Thanks for all the help.

Mike

 

I started the BL last night . I got the cab completed. The bolts listed previously in this post do not exactly work unless they are fully threaded hex bolts!If its fully threaded it would of been the perfect length but if its a regular hexbolt the 4 cab bolts need to be shorter. I had to re-use some of the stock bolts in new spots but i got it done. one bolt was frozen it took a 3 foot breaker bar and three guys hours to get it out.

I'm going to attempt the bed today but since its sunday the I might be totaly screwed if the bed bolts are too long . I'll try and get the measurments on all 12 bolts and get the pics up this week.

 

corrected my original post on bolt lengths last night. thanks for your help with that.

let me know if you have any other issues, so i can make this thread as correct as possible for other guys tryin to do this mod.

 

Does anyone know if the bolt lengths given will work for a 99 4x4.

 

I first would like to thank Gumby and casfz1 for help with this mod.


The bolt lengths are
2 - 150 mm 2 front bed mounts.
6 - 130 mm 4 in the bed 2 for front core.
2 - 110 mm 2 rear cab mounts You may need 2 extra washers or the stock core bolt works even better so i used that on one side. The other stock bolt was damaged.

2 - 100mm???? - I'm slightly unsure about which bolts for the two front cab mounts. 110 bottomed out about 1/2" of inch from the floor. I re used the stock bolts from the rear cab mounts on the front. They work perfectly

If your bolts survive being removed this mod is an even better value.

Here are some pics.

Before with 1" t bar crank and 1 " shackle



__________________________________________________ _____________

After 1" body lift and front bumper mod.



The Gap at the front and back bumpers looked really bad . I hoped I could adjust the front bumper but when maxed out I thought it looked terrible. It was approx 1 1/4 gap on the sides of the bumper. The fix is simple and takes about an hour.

When you remove the bumper your will see the horizontal slot where the bolt goes . Simply drill a 1/2 hole just above the slot and directly in the center . You want the bottom edge of the bit to be less than 1/8 of an inch from the top of the slot. Ream the hole up and down with the drill to create a vertical notch. Use a rat tail file to extend the hole up a little more and enlarge just a hair. Then a flat fill on the sides of the notch to complete the horseshoe shape. You can't go any higher because the washer on the back will hang up and prevent it . You'd have to notch the washer to go any higher .

Before


After


Bumper mod completed. I think it is a perfect fit and so easy to do.



Next was the rear bumper . For now I just got a piece of rubber base board from The Home Depot flooring department.The total cost of supplies was 3 dollars. It comes in black, Grey , white, and brown, . It comes in 48" pieces The gap 47 3/4 " so its perfect. There are 2 widths , the smaller one worked fine but the larger one might be a little cleaner look.I was too lazy to remove the tailgate but if you did you could hide the screws by mounting the higher but u will need the wider one . I attached it with 4 #10 x 3/4" stainless steel screws but I'm going to add 2 more. I attached it by myself in about 20 minutes but it could be done in 5 with someone to help. . There are wires behind where you want to drill so make sure you look first.



I like that it easily flips up to access the spare tire hanger. The stock hole doesn't line up very well in its new position.






Before starting the car I checked all over for any strained wires , hoses , etc. The differential vent extension hose was a little too tight , that was an easy fix. I checked all around the bed , the wire on top the transfer case etc it seemed ok..

I checked the engine bay. A few wires seemed a little tighter but the only thing I could fine was the fan shroud clearance. The fan was about 1/4" or less away from hitting the shroud . I figured steeping hard on the throttle and or flexing might cause a problem. I crawled under the truck with a Dremel and cut off about an inch.Took maybe 20 minutes. Make sure you don't hit the fan with the Dremel or anything else and hot melted plastic will be falling in your eyes ! I know it said you didn't need to modify anything but make sure you look real close before you start the car and take off.

Last I checked the shifting . It went into gear but hit the bezel in 2nd and a little in 3rd and reverse. I held the boot up and went at it with the Dremel . I had to grind it all the way back to the little pegs underneath for second gear. The boot covers it up and you can't tell . The rubber boot now feels funny in second because its compressing for the last half an inch as you shift. It makes second feel stiff and mushy aswell as making some squeeky noises. Something to fix this is my next mod. Debating on Hurst shifter or fx4 shift arm.

Put on about 100 miles and hit a lot of good bumps everything seems good . The only difference I can tell is the steering is just slightly stiffer I think but most people wouldn't even notice. I put a couple more pounds of air in the tire it and it helped the steering.

 

wish i would have gotten some bigger tires because id really like to do this...

 

Wish I could do this =[

 

nice work getting that bumper fitted to the lift. Looks top notch.

 

so maybe it doesn't work with a lot of peoples aesthetics on here, but couldn't you change to a roll pan and ditch the bumper? i am genuinely asking if you can, because as of right know i don't know if it would have any issues

 

yes, but roll pans look better on street versus off road trucks
plus you will still need a place to pull or be pulled from if you go off road

 

YAY!!! I'm so dang glad i found this thread!!! I'm absolutely going to do this. Better clearence for my new 32x11.50s!!! Thanks guys!!

 

Pic request: Bed bolts.

So if I do this mod, no more torx bed bolts?? Pics please!!?? Thanks!!

 

thats correct


same as a 3inch bodylift

 

Yea, I've never really looked inthe bed of a bodylifted ranger. Thanks.

 

you know almost all the stock bolts i took out had light tight on them... the blue stuff ....I put red locktight on so i wonder if they are going to come back out when i take the bed off for the chevy leaf swap someday....

I tightened the bed bolts to approx. 55 ft pounds with the needle torque wrench. It bent the bed and the washers slightly .... maybe it was a hair too tight ....just thought i'd mention it since your thinking about those bed bolts .

 

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but if I were to buy these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BODY-...2749QQtcZphoto and chop them in half with a band saw, would that work to make them 1"? I'm guessing it would.

 

Dude, you can buy the 1" ones. Why waste your time and the mess with the integrity of the block?

 

There aren't 1x3's on ebay now. Theres 1x2", 2x3 and 3x3.

 

I bought my blocks from that link posted in this thread......1x3". Ended up being 24 bucks. Did the mod a few weeks back. A friend and I were able to do it in 3hours...that includes a lotta bs'ing.

 

Yeah, I gotta order my blocks soon as I plan on tearin off the bed for POR next weekend.

I'm just gonna deal with the consequences and have to fab up brackets for the dual shifters.

 

yea.....I've been rolling around without my floor console/cup holder. shifter does hit the regualr ranger 5spd console. Yea.....you'll have some messing around with you and your AWESOME twin sticks.

I plan on a decent size thread on my mod. I used the stock rear cab mount bolts, and used them on the front cab mounts. The front core support mounts were a PITA! I ended up modifying them and sent the bolt in through the top, and the nut/washer was put on the bottom, instead of the top. I'll post pics in my thread tomarrow.

 

what you need to do is message the guy who sells them on ebay . He will send you a link for a current auction on 1" blocks . thats what i had to do.

just grind back the console and the stick will clear for now .I was going to get a hurst but instead i bought a welder i'm just going to cut and weld in 1" spacer until ican afford hurst.