1" & 3" Body Lifts General discussion of body lifts for the Ford Ranger.

Ranger 1" Body Lift Supplies?

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  #151  
Old 04-15-2009
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you want the 3" diameter blocks so that would be the big ones.
 
  #152  
Old 04-15-2009
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1" tall. 3" diameter. bam!
 
  #153  
Old 04-25-2009
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Ok, 1'' BL is gonna happen soon!!! Ordered my 1'' Blocks from P/A!

M12x1.75x140mm
M12x1.75x160mm

But, Dang, who sells these size bolts, I checked Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, Local hardware.
Cant seem to find them? Any suggestions, I guess online?

Thanks,
 
  #154  
Old 04-25-2009
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try a specialty hardware shop.....Tacoma Screw and Vancouver Nut and Bolt are places I go.


Try out Mcmaster-Carr at mcmaster.com or mcmastercarr.com.
 
  #155  
Old 04-26-2009
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Will do!

Thanks Shane!
 
  #156  
Old 04-28-2009
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I have all the items to do this 1" body lift, bought them and decided not to bother...I will post an ad in the classifieds section.
 
  #157  
Old 05-02-2009
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If i am going to do a 1" lift on my truck, which is a 5 spd, 2wd. Will i need to worry about the shifter interfering with anything?
 
  #158  
Old 05-02-2009
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I ran mine with only minor triming to the interior floor bezel plastic piece that has the cupholders on it. On your '92, no clue.
 
  #159  
Old 05-03-2009
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Alright, there is no cupholders on the floor to interfere, so hopefully im in the clear.
 
  #160  
Old 05-04-2009
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Got my 1'' body mounts from P/A. Just waitin on a few more bolts and I will get it installed. I'll try to borrow a decent cam and post some pics.

later,
 
  #161  
Old 05-27-2009
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Icon14

Did the mod on my 96 regular cab 2wd ranger worked great. bumper space doesn't bother me. reused the the front bolts worked fine. used all 10.9's. Good by to those torque/star bit bolts in the bed, hello hex.

Did any of you have problems with the brake lines?
 
  #162  
Old 05-28-2009
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I didn't have any issues with the brake lines with my 3" body and 4" suspension....
 
  #163  
Old 06-12-2009
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any of you running the 1"bl with a manual tranny, do you have the normal shifter or the fx4 shifter? with the fx4 would trimming still be needed? I just ordered the pucks yesterday and I am getting the bolts today.
 
  #164  
Old 06-12-2009
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I ran it with the normal, stock shifter. I do believe I trimmed the plastic floor bezel thing that has the cupholders and the boot attaches to it. And I believe the truck would not go into 2nd, 4th, or Reverse without this trimming....but it has been a good like 3 years since I did the mod. lol.
 
  #165  
Old 06-12-2009
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yea, iirc (bad that i cant remember just a few months ago when i put the new shifter in) the way i figure it, the fx4 goes straight up then curves towards the seats as compared to the other that almost immediately angles to the seats.

and i am having a heck of a time finding the bolts.
 
  #166  
Old 06-12-2009
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You are correct on the Fx4 shifter vs stock shifter. You can run a Fx4 shifter with a 3" without needing to run the extention. The regular shifter requires the extention to even hope to work right.


You can run 120's in the rear 4 bed bolts. I used the stock rear cab bolts for the front footwell's.
 
  #167  
Old 06-12-2009
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sweet. yea, still gotta find them in that length even. fastenal has some, in socket head. i am gonna go to mcmaster car and see what they have.
 
  #168  
Old 06-14-2009
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well fastenal.com has all the bolts you need. i dont know if they are a national store but my local stores didnt have the bolts needed.
 
  #169  
Old 06-15-2009
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Yup...Fastenal is a nationwide chain.
 
  #170  
Old 06-15-2009
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cool, anyone have pictures of what the "crush block" is? i think i know where it is, just want to make sure.

thanks

Dan
 
  #171  
Old 06-15-2009
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i would still like to do maybe a 2" body.i want a little more lift but i want to keep my 33s and not go bigger. 3" body is too much and i think you cant really tell a difference with a 1". i dont know though

i just wish their was more susp. part out their to get me another 1-2", beside tbar crank (already done)
 

Last edited by rideabikenick; 06-15-2009 at 12:23 PM.
  #172  
Old 06-15-2009
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Originally Posted by Bumpncarstereo
cool, anyone have pictures of what the "crush block" is? i think i know where it is, just want to make sure.

thanks

Dan
They look just like these, except no holes for bolts...



You can use just plain old 2x1 square tubing for those if you wanted to for the 1". I didn't use them...and still dont. I dont have any pics of just the 'crush blocks' from the 3" kit.

Originally Posted by rideabikenick
i would still like to do maybe a 2" body.i want a little more lift but i want to keep my 33s and not go bigger. 3" body is too much and i think you cant really tell a difference with a 1". i dont know though

i just wish their was more susp. part out their to get me another 1-2", beside tbar crank (already done)
You wanna see 1" vs 3"....here ya go....3" bed, 1" cab....





 
  #173  
Old 06-15-2009
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there is a difference. i ran the 1 inch until i upgraded to 3. now i am wishing i woulda just done the 3 and been done with it.
 
  #174  
Old 06-16-2009
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shane if you posted pics I can't see them,but I am on my phone. what I was actually looking for was where they go on the truck. they are just 2" by 1" blocks? I know most don't use them but i have been known to transport full 55 gallon drums bags of cement and loads of stone. so an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure for me.
 
  #175  
Old 06-16-2009
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Yeah...I posted 3 pics...you need to get on a computer and off your phone. lol.


Look at your truck right now...there's two crossmembers that support weight of the bed floor to the frame. You can see them through your wheel well. There's usually a sticky rubbery thing between the crossmember and the frame...the crush blocks go between the bed and the frame. The ones that come in the PA kit are approx 2x3x1...I figure you could just go ahead and use some steel stock measuring 2x1x1 and it'll do the same thing as the PA kit stuff does. Plus...it'll be better material as well.

I'll see if i can find a pic with a truck with crush blocks.
 


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