So I put my new timing belt on. Great! Then my thermostat housing started leaking and I put a new one of those on. Great! I just put new brackets and shackles on too.

Just in case you don't know, even though I drive a domestic vehicle, I'm still for the most part considered to be driving the wrong brand of truck because I'm from Flint. So I constantly hear crap from people about how junky Fords are.

Not to mention I work for a company that contracts for GM. I'm at work right now making sure that the nuts and bolts listed for the 2009 Chevy Cobalt wiring harness are the correct ones.

"Crap, my truck is broke!"...Typical response..."Well, it is a ford."

So I'm driving down the road with my freshly fixed truck and I come to a stop light. As I'm sitting there I can hear my truck missing just a little bit. Then it just shuts off. When I go to restart it, I hear a loud screeching noise. But it does start. I pull into Rocky's parking lot and check out the under the hood situation. All looks well. I shut it off and start it again. LOUD TICKING coming from the cam chamber. I of course at the time did not realize that this is indicative of no oil being pumped into the lifter area. I'm only about 2 miles from a shop I know I can fix my truck at so since it is still running I decide to try to get it there.

This was probably a mistake.

I did end up getting there, but the noise and behavior of the truck only got worse.

So at this moment I think I now have a broken oil pump. Sounds fun.

My truck ran really smooth after I put the timing belt on, but

Does anyone think my oil pump dying could have anything to do with the recent installation of my timing belt?


This is all the crap in my garage off to one side so I can fit my truck in for the motor swap.


This is the motor hanging from the rafters in my garage after I pulled it out.


This is the Harmonic Balancer timing mark lining up to the timing cover.


This is the picture of the Cam gear with the timing mark on it. From what I read this is supposed to be placed at 12oclock. I could not find the mark on the back timing cover.

 

Did your timing belt break in the first place? Or did you just do a preventive maintenance replacement?

A timing belt breaking when running can cause all kinds of havoc and could have set you up for further failure regardless of brand of vehicle.

Normally, I would not expect it to have been a problem.

 

The timing belt breaking would not have caused issues with the engine in itself (it is a non-interference engine) however the oil pump is driven off of the auxiliary sprocket... I'd say first thing if you know the oil isn't going anywhere is to pull the front cover and check the condition of everything in there.

 

oops ignore this post

 

Glad to hear that. I've had experiences with both kinds of engines and it's no fun if it's the interference type.

The old 2.9 (or 2.8 don't remember) in my Aerostar lost the plastic tooth ring on the crank gear and it was non-interference and easy to fix. No chain or belt in those -- just gears.

 

FORD OHC TIMING BELT REPLACEMENT RECOMMENDATIONS 1.3L Aspire - 60,000 miles

1.6L*, 1.8L, 1.9L Escort - 60,000 miles

2.0L diesel (1984-'87) - 60,000 miles

2.0L SOHC Escort & Tracer (1999) - 120,000 miles

2.0L SOHC Focus (2000 & up) - 120,000 miles

2.0L Contour - 60,000 miles

2.0L* Probe (1989-'97)- 60,000 miles

2.0L* DOHC (1999 & up all models) - 120,000 miles

2.0L 4-cyl Ranger pickup - 60,000 miles

2.2L* Probe - 60,000 miles

2.3L 4-cyl Ranger pickup - 60,000 miles

2.3L Mustang & T-Bird - 60,000 miles

2.5L 4-cyl Ranger pickup - 60,000 miles

2.5L V6 Probe - 60,000 miles

3.0L* V6 Mercury Villager (1993) - 60,000 miles

3.0L* V6 Mercury Villager (1994-2000) - 105,000 miles

3.0L V6 Taurus - 100,000 miles

3.2L V6 Taurus SHO - 100,000 miles

(*) - Indicates an interference engine that will suffer valve damage if the timing belt fails. As you can see the 4.0 is not listed as being OHC. This would indicate that it does not have a belt to replace so therfore it is not interferance. My advice would be to call the dealer to verify this.




Just because an engine doesn't have a timing belt doesn't mean the engine is not an interference engine. The 4.0L SOHC is an interference engine, if the timing chain breaks or the tensioners fail there will be major damage to the engine.

 

Why cant they just use chains. my 2.3l focus uses a chain.

 

I'm pretty sure I killed the engine by driving it. It was just a light tapping at first but now it sounds like crashing. There is surely something broken in there now. I'm probably going to just buy a new motor but I will take the cover off first to see if there is anything I can do.

 

It's now been a year and I bought a motor from craigslist. The guy's timing belt broke and he could not get the center bolt off se he decided to part it out. Wow, here I go again...right?

I got the center bolt off, I made a video.

YouTube - Ford Ranger 2.3 Center Bolt Removal

So now I'm doing a motor swap. I've been taking a few pictures and video. I will probably do some kind of montage/instructional video in the future. I can show you all of my mistakes!

I have the motor out and I'm putting the timing belt on. Even though I've done this before I can't remember how to do the timing. So I'm on here doing the search function.

 

wow.. lol.. good luck!

 

I see no pic's thread fail.:

 

You are so right. I was thinking that last week but I didn't really have the time to put them up. So I'm back from my trip and I have the time. So they are in the first post now.

 

The vacuum tube that comes off the exhaust and goes up to the intake on my old engine has two little tubes on it. The new 2.3 does not have these. Also the thing at the top of the tube (picture included) is different and is powered. Do I need to/Can I change out these intakes? Can I just change out the parts shown? What are these things? I probably know the answer to what they are in an hour or so because I have the service manual at my garage on CD that I just found yesterday and have not looked at in a couple years.

This is a picture of the thing thats on the top of the vacuum tube coming from the exhaust that is on the engine I want to put into the truck.



This is a picture of the thing that is on top of the vacuum tube that comes from the exhaust headers of the engine I took OUT of the truck.



This is a picture of the same tube on the engine that I want to put in the truck.



This is the picture of the tube on the engine that I took OUT of the truck.



This is a picture of the clutch



This is a picture of the fuel line disconnect disconnected. I had to dig the little spring out and I know this is not the correct way. If you have any tips please enlighten me.






Also, My core support hardware that holds it onto the frame is toast. I made some crappy replacements out of steel plates and hockey pucks. I think there is room for improvements. I will post a movie and pics soon. Well, soon is relative. Don't hold your breath.

Regards

Patrick

 

That cam your talking about is the 2ndary cam all it does is drive the oil pump it also drove the distro on the older 2.3's all you have to do is make it spin that cam does not care where it's at.

 

I was starting to suspect that was the case, but I still was not sure. I have the trans on now. I just figured out that I need a tool for the fuel lines. Now I just have to get some sort of union for the clutch hose that I cut instead of getting the 4 dollar dissconnect tool for that. It looks high pressure though. Well see.

 

you should be able to get a compression fitting for your clutch hose, your fuel line, if you too that spring out of there, i would start looking for new fittings, there is another $4 tool to get the fuel lines off, the spring spreads out into the housing and it slides apart... i wouldn't trust the spring to hold everything together if you destroyed it and shoved it back in... should be a similar process to put the fuel lines together, (compression fitting)

these are the proper tools to get the fuel lines off, both work equally as well, the metal scissor type don't wear out as fast (the plastic i think i got 5-10 uses out of before they broke)



(the black part is just a holder) as for quality of this style, take a look at the site name

 

Thanks for the pics. I'm going to get the fuel line tool tomorrow. I have the fitting on my old engine with the spring still in it, that is why I destroyed one of them. Because I have a backup...

I was just going to use a hose union and hose clamps but maybe a compression fitting will be better.

I figured out that those things in the pics above are exhaust heat valves. One is a bimetal and the other is heat activated. I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to change those out. No biggie though.

Regards

Patrick

 

I would not use a hose union you have 40lbs of spray all over a hot engine of fuel pressure you do NOT want that to happen. The thing you see on the back of the intake is the EGR valve (Exhaust gas recirculation) All you have to do there is unplug the sensor on the top of the valve. All that sensor does is tell the ecu if the egr valve is open or closed since the engine that came out of your truck did not have this sensor just unplug it from your replacement engine all other parts of the egr valve function the same.

 

I used the clamps for the clutch hose. The fuel lines are all set just like factory. I used the metal tool that you suggested. It was still a major pain. I had to use lots of PB Blaster and wiggle the spring around with a small screw driver before I could get the tool to insert into the union. I ended up swapping the EGR valves anyway because I wasn't sure if it was going to make a difference and I wanted to do it before I put the engine in.

Thanks for your help....quality update tonight.

 

egr will lower your emissions, it's only functional at an idle, it basicly puts an inert gas into the engine and makes the motor act as if it had a smaller combustion chamber (ie 4L act like a 3.5L)

 

i had this exact same problem, with the oil pump letting go and also with the different EGR styles on the new and old motor. i just swapped all the wiring and the exhaust manifold and all of my know to be good sensors from my old motor the the one i found. everything went pretty smooth. one problem i ran into with re-installing the motor was the oil filter got in the way when trying to get the motor back onto the mounts. If i could do it over i'd leave the filter off until the motor was installed. also check the motor mounts while the motor is out of the truck. they are much easier to replace now then when the motor is back in. good luck.

 

I got the engine in the truck and on the mounts. I have to go to the junk yard to get a trans crossover. Here are some pics of it going in and the engine mount replacment.





I'm pretty sure this happened when I was taking the engine out. I think the bracket on
the motor snapped it off. (below)































I did not have an oil filter wrench

 

looks good!

 

Lookin great!

 

man that engine bay coulda used some paint while you had it open lol. lotta rust in there.