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Old 05-15-2008
Jester983's Avatar
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I am: Nick T
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: La habra, CA
Vehicle: 2000 Ford Ranger XLT
Posts: 429
Total Props: 0
Really rough/low Idle.

Hey guys, Ive searched around for the answer to this but I need some input. Lately my truck has had a really rough idle. Sometimes just idling itll almost start to stall and then it come back up. It just seems very low. I dont have a tach so I cant tell by rpms, I just feel it in the shifter. When driving in gear its fine. Smooth acceleration and pretty peppy.. for a 4 banger.

So far this is what ive changed to try and fix it.

Spark Plugs and Wires - 100k
IAC - Helped alot, but didn't completely solve the idling problem.
Fuel Filter. (done about a year or so ago) about 93k.

PCV valve seems to be working fine. I did the shake test and it rattled so i am pretty sure i am good there.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks Guys.

2000 Ford Ranger XLT
2.5L 4 banger
2WD 5 speed manual
4.10s open diff 7.5 axle
Extended Cab
106, 400 miles
235/75/15 BFG ATs Load C
Bilstein Shocks

Mods to come: Save money for a 4x4.
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Old 05-17-2008
Jester983's Avatar
Thread Starter

I am: Nick T
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: La habra, CA
Vehicle: 2000 Ford Ranger XLT
Posts: 429
Total Props: 0
Anyone? Bueler? Bueler?
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Old 06-03-2008
I am: John Harris
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: atlanta, ga
Vehicle: 1991 Ford Ranger SuperCab XLT
Posts: 7
Total Props: 0
Take off your idle air control valve and clean it. Use Seafoam, intake cleaner, carb cleaner, whatever. This would be a good time to do a Seafoam treatment as well. Also clean your Mass Air Flow Sensor and replace air filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter. You will find all of this will improve your gas mileage in conjunction with your rough idle.

Performed in this order makes the most sense:

First: Idle Air Control Valve and Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaning, and Air Filter Change

1. Take off battery cables.
2. Disconnect IACV and MAFS plugs.
3. Remove IACV.
4. Clean IACV with Seafoam (or equivalent) using q-tips and let thoroughly dry (compressed air is convenient here).
5. Remove MAFS.
6. Spray electrical NON-RESIDUE contact cleaner onto the two wires/probes. If your careful, you can clean it with a q-tip soaked in the electrical cleaner. Make it dually noted that if you bend or break those wires you will be buying a new MAFS.
7. Change air filter.
8. Reinstall MAFS and IACV and connect corresponding plugs.
9. Reconnect battery cables.

Second: Proper Seafoam Treatment Procedure (I found that nobody really knows how to do this right), Fuel Filter and Spark Plugs

1. Dump 1 full can into gas tank.
2. Dump 1/2 can into engine oil.
3. Take plastic air inlet tube off throttle body. Pour 1/2 body into a spay bottle. Start engine and idle around 2000RPM or so by pushing down on the spring and lever that controls the butterfly valve on the throttle body. Squirt all the contents of the spray bottle into the throttle body. Do not let the engine stall.
4. Turn off engine when done.
5. Wait fifteen minutes. During this time replace plastic air inlet tube on throttle body. Pull the battery cables off the battery for 10 minutes to reset codes thrown by the MAFS. After 10 minutes replace battery cables
6. Start engine after 15 minutes and go for a ride til there is no more smoke coming from tailpipe.
7. After 200 miles, perform an oil & oil filter change, fuel filter change, and spark plug change.

All of this will take about 1 1/2 hours and cost $40 at most. You'll make back that money in MPG by two fill-ups at the gas station.
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Old 10-15-2008
I am: Walter Colby
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Amherst, NH
Vehicle: 1997 Ranger
Posts: 12
Total Props: 0
Did seafoaming work for you? It didn't for me..... I'm still trying to diagnose the same kind of problem... seems that the 2.3 is plagued by no error codes and still running like crap :(
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