i just had plugs and wire done its a 6cyl 4.0 runs like crap now codes reading right after the change are po174. po316. po301 po171 and p1186 any one got any ideas for me

 

P0171 and P0174(lean Bank1 and 2) are most likely from a vacuum leak, on your year the most common issue is the PCV Valve hoses, they have elbows that crack, need to look at them and other vacuum lines closely.

P0301 and P0316 are misfiring codes, could be due to lean fuel mix so address that first, by looking for vacuum leak.

This is a new one for me:
P1186 FTS low - fuel pump temperature sensor low

???
But from all the other codes and this one I would rent/get a fuel pressure tester and see what the fuel pump is doing, average pressure is 65psi at the fuel rail with engine running, and then with engine off pressure should stay above 50 psi.
There is no fuel pressure regulator on your year, fuel pump has a check valve to hold and maintain pressure.

 

i checked that didnt see a crack will look better thanks for the info

 

is there a reason all the problems started when i had plugs and wires done..how many elbows do i check i only thought there was on and its metal

 

i had my truck over to my brothers him my son find no leaks in a pvc we did find one that is dry rotting but not sure what it goes to and are no cracks in it should it be replaced it on drivers side toward front of engine goes to a thing that looks like it it turns and the bottom of it has like a lid on it u can take on and off

 

how about main air senser

 

The MAF sensor can be cleaned with.....MAF sensor cleaner, other cleaning fluid can hurt the MAF sensor wire.

The MAF is the main sensor used by the computer to set lean/rich fuel ratio, O2 sensors are for fine tuning than ratio

 

I have a 2004 Edge, 4X2, automatic transmission, 6 Cylinder, 4.0 liter... bought it new.. have taken good care of it... have only 129k miles.. had to have transmission rebuilt at 95k miles... it's been idling rough and stuttering/bucking a little on interstate... just had tune up four months ago... two weeks ago engine light came on (code for cylinder 3 misfire)... Firestone replaced ignition coil and... engine light still on.... they gave up and told me to go to Ford dealership... took it there and after two days they said coolant getting into cylinder and they "think" engine block cracked and are telling me I need to get a new motor at a cost of $5200... said if a got new heads that I'd still probably have problems. I've taken it to a friend's trusted mechanic for a second opinion. I'm not sure if I should spend the money for a new motor (if that's really the problem) or call it quits and go buy a Honda. Any insight/advise would be appreciated... was hoping to keep this truck another 100k miles.

 

well foreter its going on a computer at a ford dealer today i need a truck as a haul wood and i haul equipment for cleaning i have 130 k miles on this i like my truck but if some body don't get to the bottom of it i will trade it in the guy that's been working on it is good .he don't want me to go else where but it dogs and has a miss in it when u get to a hill it dog and sputters then i give her gas and it goes away i got pic on it on my Facebook im under micky lewis corry pa..i don't want no dodge is see a used 2011 blue if things don't get better soon ill trade it in

 

Foster - I would get a second opinion. Unless you are running 100% water and had prolonged freezing temps I'm not sure how you'd crack a block on one of these. To me it sounds more like a head gasket if its burning coolant. Have you over-heated it? A motor (worse case) is still cheaper than a new car. It's really what do you want to do.

Micky - Man... Use some grammar. That's hard to read. If the guy can't figure it out... He's not that good. Hopefully the dealership can help you out. If the problems started with plugs and wires retrace your steps. Make sure your firing order is correct, check for tight connections, make sure the plugs are in straight and tight, and test each part. I have purchased new parts only to find them bad when installed. Good luck man.

 

foster- I'im a female maybe that's why I'm so stupid at all this its going to dealership to at 3 if its not good news I will trade it in..My English was never good.. lol but I did see a 2011 with 58,000 on it mine has 130,000 its a blue truck i like black ...may have to settle for it I will let you all know later thanks for the help..

 

Newman i had some one retrace steps but no one pulled plugs ..no one has enough time I guess..I with a lazy man and a lazy son.. I would do it if i could.. My brother was trying to help for days guess he go sick of trying things on it..

 

Micky - I must apologize for assuming you were a male. Too much time spent reading truck and boat forums on the internet where females are rarer than bigfoot.

I went through something similar with mine over the past few months it turned out to be the elbow everyone keeps talking about. Mine didn't look like it had a hole (just looked dry rotted) but I was able to put my finger through it. There are two I saw. One toward the front of the motor under a coolant line (I think it went into the thermostat housing) and the other was on the rear of motor. They were transitions between metal tubes. If I get home before dark I will try to take a picture of the two I'm talking about.

On a side note if you do choose to sell it let us know, I have friend looking for one.

 

HI Forster and other guys.......This whole thing cost me money ,,Not my screw up but took truck to ford dealer, it was put on a computer lots of same codes showed up and they said you want me to go more into it i ok another hour 10 min he came back number one plug in hand said this is problem it was all cracked replaced cost me $200 but it fixed it all no more codes.. and tom check your spark plugs again........mine was a cracked spark plug after spending hours and hours looking

 

lol Newman not selling now all is ok but i was looking for a new one when i was at corry ford....I will be back to see what you all say...

 

Glad you got it straighten out.

 

Hi guys i got another problem...i have a automatic transmission when i put it in park its getting so it slips gear 2 or 3 times befor it stops im using emergency break all the time now so it dont slip gear...whats my problem ..any cheep fixes about 115 thousand miles on it..:

 

There are a few common problems with Ford Truck column shifters.

The most common is the linkage under the dash has become loose so it won't shift all the way into Park,.
There are 2 screws that can loosen up, free and easy fix if you know where to look, and have the right screwdriver, lol.

Good video of that fix here:

Another thing that can happen is the the shift cable "jacket" can break, the jacket sets the length of the movement of the cable inside so when you shift it doesn't have full range.
You can see the shift cable coming out of the firewall and then going under the cab to the shifter on the transmission, where it bends the most is often where it breaks or near exhaust pipe.