3.0 Oil pan removal
#1
3.0 Oil pan removal
I've started a horrible project of trying to replace the oil pan on a 97 ford ranger 2wd 3.0L with a friend. I have the engine raised as much as it can go (about 4-5" higher than where it sits) and the passenger axle I-Beam lowered so I have enough clearance to remove it. I can't get the pan out because of two issues: 1.) The tranny inspection cover is in the way. 2.) The oil pump is in the way. If either of the two were out of the way I could remove the pan (from the looks of it).
The DIY manual says the inspection cover needs to come off but offers no instructions to do so (It looks like the trans and engine need to be separated), how high does the plate go up? I've tried remove the lowest bolts from the bell housing without success of removing it.
The oil pump looks like Its possible to remove from inside the oil pan (with ALOT of effort, without success so far). Is it just one bolt holding in the oil pump?
edit: Also I have someone saying that the first piston should be at TDC, does this matter?
The DIY manual says the inspection cover needs to come off but offers no instructions to do so (It looks like the trans and engine need to be separated), how high does the plate go up? I've tried remove the lowest bolts from the bell housing without success of removing it.
The oil pump looks like Its possible to remove from inside the oil pan (with ALOT of effort, without success so far). Is it just one bolt holding in the oil pump?
edit: Also I have someone saying that the first piston should be at TDC, does this matter?
#2
I'm almost positive you need to remove the engine or at least lift it further than what you have it.
I did an oil pan on a taurus 3.0, just as difficult, there was a plate between the engine and trans covering the flywheel that had a few bolts, and I had to remove the starter to get it out. It took some grunting to pull it out.
I don't see how the pistons position matter. Unless it's for removing the pump.
I did an oil pan on a taurus 3.0, just as difficult, there was a plate between the engine and trans covering the flywheel that had a few bolts, and I had to remove the starter to get it out. It took some grunting to pull it out.
I don't see how the pistons position matter. Unless it's for removing the pump.
#3
Sounds like the taurus was actually easier, The plate on this seems like it goes up a ways into the trans. Everything I've read says to lift the engine 1-2" so 4-5" should be plenty and it seems like it. The problem is the back of the oil pan hits the inspection cover because of the oil pump. Thats why I said one of the two being removed should allow removal. Has anybody ever tackled this without removing the motor?
#4
Managed to get it off last night, and its horrible. I'd rather pull the engine to do this job than the way I did it. I managed to get the bolt to the oil pump off and drop it in the pan, but since the oil pump has a long "pole" going back into the engine rotating the oil pan out and keeping that straight all the way down way a nightmare. Taking it out was the easy part, putting the new pan up while trying to get the oil pump to go back in at the same time is almost impossible (even with two people). I managed to install the oil pump with the bolt barely threaded and with a little force slid the oil pan up.
The inspection plate cover in this experience doesn't come off unless the tranny and engine are separated.
Also I ended up having a rear tire go flat in this process making the engine mounts not line up correctly when trying to place them back down, had to undo the trans mount and mess with it for a few minutes to get it to go back in place.
I'd consider this a 4 hour project for someone that has done it already, 8 hours to a random mechanic, and 20+ hours to someone (like me) randomly trying to do it.
The inspection plate cover in this experience doesn't come off unless the tranny and engine are separated.
Also I ended up having a rear tire go flat in this process making the engine mounts not line up correctly when trying to place them back down, had to undo the trans mount and mess with it for a few minutes to get it to go back in place.
I'd consider this a 4 hour project for someone that has done it already, 8 hours to a random mechanic, and 20+ hours to someone (like me) randomly trying to do it.
#5
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#9
I'm not sure on the 4x4 version but I'd recommend removing the engine for the 4x2. The trans mount needs to be loosen/removed to raise the transmission up also. We basically had to push the engine into the top of the firewall/hood. Also had to put some oil on the mounts and let them sit for a few hours before they would budge. The problem I had was the trans inspection cover doesn't come off without engine-trans separation which doesn't allow enough room for the oil pan to drop due to the oil pump clearance inside the pan.
#10
Ya, i should remove the engine to do my pan, i have an exhaust manifold leak to which would be to easy to do when the motor is out of the truck compared to doing it in the truck seeing how i will have to cut off all the manifold bolts to get it off, thanks to the climate around here that rusts everything.
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