3.0 please help
#1
3.0 please help
Hello,
When I cold start my 99 ranger it knocks pretty bad but goes away after about 5 minutes of driving. Also when I first start it i hear a squeeking noise, and ive already changed the belt. After reading many threads on this forum im begging to think its my camshaft synchro or position censor. My question is, what is the difference between the two? And where is the cps? If anyone could help me out, or show me a guide on how to change these out that would be great.
99 3.0 100k
When I cold start my 99 ranger it knocks pretty bad but goes away after about 5 minutes of driving. Also when I first start it i hear a squeeking noise, and ive already changed the belt. After reading many threads on this forum im begging to think its my camshaft synchro or position censor. My question is, what is the difference between the two? And where is the cps? If anyone could help me out, or show me a guide on how to change these out that would be great.
99 3.0 100k
#3
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My 2000 did that at first and now I get that noise almost all the time. It runs really rough sometimes until I just floor it and blow the crap out of it and then it runs great again and will sometiems throw missfire codes. The 99 and 00 have the same 3.0 dont they? I dont think there are any differences but you know how Ford loves to change things.
#6
Originally Posted by Swampdonky
After reading many threads on this forum im begging to think its my camshaft synchro or position censor. My question is, what is the difference between the two?
When the synchronizer is removed, the CMP must be retimed to the engine, similar to timing a distributor. A special tool will locate the synchronizer drive in the correct position when #1 is at TDC, compression stroke.
Be sure to get the right kind. Ford changed the CMP from a 3-wire Hall Effect sensor to a 2-wire Variable Reluctance sensor around 1999.
Although they vary from engine to engine, this is generally what it looks like when removed.
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I changed my cam sensor and syncro last night. Took me about an hour and a half and it was done. Took the plenum off for better access and didnt time anything, just made sure to put the new one back just as the old one was and it runs so much better. I have more power now and it runs so much smoother.
#12
If it's "chirping", replace the entire synchro assembly (See RWenzing's photo above).
You may want to do some searching; I recall a series of threads relating that some aftermarket brands (Dorman?) had quality issues (chintzy washer). It may be prudent to get this part from Ford, despite the higher cost. If it fails (gear strips), you lose oil pressure and the engine may seize.
You may want to do some searching; I recall a series of threads relating that some aftermarket brands (Dorman?) had quality issues (chintzy washer). It may be prudent to get this part from Ford, despite the higher cost. If it fails (gear strips), you lose oil pressure and the engine may seize.
#13
#14
If it's "chirping", replace the entire synchro assembly (See RWenzing's photo above).
You may want to do some searching; I recall a series of threads relating that some aftermarket brands (Dorman?) had quality issues (chintzy washer). It may be prudent to get this part from Ford, despite the higher cost. If it fails (gear strips), you lose oil pressure and the engine may seize.
You may want to do some searching; I recall a series of threads relating that some aftermarket brands (Dorman?) had quality issues (chintzy washer). It may be prudent to get this part from Ford, despite the higher cost. If it fails (gear strips), you lose oil pressure and the engine may seize.
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