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Old 02-07-2016
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I am: Raj Maraj
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Tallahassee
Vehicle: 1999 Ford Ranger
Drive Type: 4x2
Engine: 3.0
Posts: 1
Total Props: 0
3.0 Ranger Power Steering Pump Removal/Flush

Hey Guys and Gals……..weird because I have never seen a female ranger driver.

Anyway, this is my first post as I have recently acquired another ford ranger. My first car ever was an early 80’s ranger and now I have a 99 2wd 3.0; somehow just as broke and in more need of some reliable wheels. I picked up this ranger with 160k miles from an elderly couple in south Florida. It seemed to be in good condition; in my dad’s words, but when I picked it up there were some things that needed to be addressed.

I made this write up because I saw a lot of help for the 2.5 and 4.0 motors but not for the 3.0 which is slightly different and somewhat harder. Ex. Pulley, Mounting. You will need to rent a Pulley puller kit. I got mine from O’Reilly. With some wrenches and recommended fluid you should save some serious money and quiet down that whine.

Jacking up the truck is not necessary until flushing is required. Secure the vehicle and get started. I like to remove thin plastic around the working area because things can get crazy…..

IMG_7368 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

Remove the belt by creating slack on the belt tensioner. I used a wrench but a socket and long breaker bar will be much easier when re-installing. Replacing a worn belt is a good idea now.

IMG_7370 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

This will be the hardest part of the replacement. I would suggest getting some tough gloves because you will be putting some serious pressure on those wrenches and one slip can take a lot of skin off....ask me how I know.

IMG_7371 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

Follow the directions on the Pulley kit. It is straight forward, thread the bolt in and place the clam around the pulley neck and start turning. This will be a workout.

IMG_7372 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

The pulley will move slowly, but when out will allow you access to the three bolts holding the pump in place.

IMG_7373 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

Remove and head under the truck.

IMG_7375 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

I am not sure if all rangers have this power steering cooler but it lives right in front of the rack unprotected for rocks and debris to possibly puncture it. Release the top clip, leave the cap on the pump until you secure the line into a catch bucket. Then uncap and drain reservoir.

IMG_7376 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

Unscrew the high pressure line on the side of the pump. I used a small crescent wrench because I could find a wrench that worked.

IMG_7377 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

Remove and pull away. There was not much fluid left to make a mess.

IMG_7378 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

Release the back clip on the reservoir that runs to the cooler.

IMG_7379 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

I tilted the pump 90 degrees upward and pulled it out. See that A/C bolt that is missing. Not cool at all......See what I did there?

IMG_7380 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

Heres what is looks like. Verify you have indeed received the right pump and that it matches up. Note the red fluid used. Maybe put to rest what fluid should be used?

IMG_7381 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

Got this reman pump from O'Riellys as well. $52 bucks I think. It is significantly quieter, but not as much as I would like. Maybe my ears have grown used to my hondas p/s. It does have a lifetime warranty so if it does fail or get loud on you bring it back, or get a new one from ford.

IMG_7382 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

Here is some valuable information when flushing and bleeding the system. I am sure you can deceiver what pertains to you or not.

IMG_7383 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

IMG_7384 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

Now it’s just placing and re-installing. Make sure to keep the seal on the line when screwing back in. I did not use thread sealing tape.

IMG_7385 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

While I was putting things into place I confirmed there was a leak from the high pressure line from the pump to the rack and changed out the line. It had been making the clamp on the tie rod boot slip off. I got the line from O'Reilly's. The Later model hose was out of stock so I got the line with the idle speed up control switch which had a plug to use in the event of no switch.....This may also be a reason this pump is slightly louder at low idle. When driving I can't even hear it.......btw anyone notice that crack

IMG_7392 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

IMG_7396 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

IMG_7397 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

IMG_7398 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

Now do everything in reverse. I placed a block of wood below the threaded bolt so I could use two hands on the pulley kit to press back on. I needed all the leverage I could get.

IMG_7386 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

IMG_7389 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

Press on until the belt valley is parallel to the other pulleys and Reinstall belt.

IMG_7391 by Rajiv Maraj, on Flickr

Now with everything back in place, jack up the truck to get the front wheels off the ground and place jack stands underneath. I would explain the flush process but I think it is covered pretty well in the info provided up top. Having multiple hands for this job is ideal. I had one helper pour fluid in while I move the wheels back and forth. Don't freak out if there is still noise when you go to drive it. Some air might have made it back down if you don't keep the reservoir full, drive it and keep an eye out for the fluid. Once it quiets down you should be good to go. Check at cold and at hot temps and be happy not to be making a racket when you park at the grocery!

Thanks for the time. I know there will be some mistakes. I am happy to change all grammar or tech related errors just let me know.
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Old 07-29-2016
I am: John Colenso
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Murfreesboro,TN
Vehicle: 1998 Ford Ranger
Drive Type: 4x4
Engine: 3.0
Posts: 28
Total Props: 0
Good write up.

The bleeding procedure without a vac tool

1. Jack truck up to where tires are 1/2" off the ground. No need for jack stands

2. With car off....move steering wheel side to side....not lock to lock. Do this throughout the steering range. It pushes air bubbles out of the rack.

3. Start the truck

4. Do the same thing as step 2 with the truck warm

5. With the reservoir cap off and turning the wheels back and forth....keep doing this until all air bubbles disappear.....then it's done

You can use a turkey blaster to remove fluid and replace with Lucas steering stop leak to quiet down the pump. There are other products that do this as well....." lube guard" brand for steering.

Our trucks use Mercon V transmission fluid for the power steering.
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