Facts: ’02 Ranger XL 2WD, 3.0L, manual transmission. Fairly basic model. No cruise control, etc.

Accelerator cable is sticking. It’s starting to fray right where it comes out of throttle-end mount, where that little conical metal swiveling guide is. As revving up to shift gears, it sticks at between 2500-3000 RPM.

Have tried to trim frayed ends, but it keeps unraveling.



The problem? Freakin’ Ford apparently doesn’t make a proper replacement. The first one they ordered (according to the VIN#) was almost twice as long, and the pedal end mounting is different. QuickLane in Topeka agreed it was odd, and we went through 3 other cables. They were all either too long, or the one that was only about 4” longer had the improper pedal hardware. (Jerks at the “other” Ford place told me “bring it in and let our trained professionals do it, if you can’t figure it out”….!) It’s not like it’s rocket science. I just need the proper cable, and Ford doesn’t seem to have one for a 9-year-old truck. Of course, being a “dealer-only” item, there are no aftermarket ones, either.


Another little surprise (that didn’t make me happy) is that they said the engine is 2000-model year 3.0L, truck assembled in 2001, and sold as 2002 Ranger.

I’ve scoured all the salvage yards near town, to no avail. I’ve thought about finding ANY longer Ford cable with the same throttle end cylindrical fitting, and trying to use my original housing. I figured if I cut off the pedal ends of both, I could yank the old one out, feed the new(er) one through, and secure the pedal end, somehow. What are my chances of successfully feeding a cable all the way back through that? I really can’t rig the throttle end, but since the pedal end just butts up against the pedal, I’m thinking that might work?

The original cable is part# 2L54-9A758-AA (346). The Ford pedal# is YL54-9725-AA (then >PA6-GF30< under main number).

The original cable housing from firewall to engine mount bracket is appx. 17”. The new cables (except one of the much longer ones) had a different pedal end than the original. They had green spring-loaded contraptions. The original has a part that tab-locks into the front of the pedal, with a multi-diameter plastic spacer, appx. ¾” L. That fits into the little plastic snap-in mount on the pedal, and the cable-end cylinder just rides freely against the spacer.


I REALLY need to resolve this. In the not-to-distant future, I’m going to have a truck would be perfectly fine just sitting, unusable, because freakin’ Ford didn’t see fit to supply a proper common wearable replacement part!

If anyone has any suggestions, or better yet, a brand new proper cable number, I’d be extremely grateful.

Thank you,

Howler

 

I would try a different dealership some of them have idiots working the parts counter

 

what is the part number on it. i can look them up now im at work

edit: im blind

 

I have a few of them laying around if interested I can get you a pic... send me a pm

 

Thanks for the replies, guys. Let me add a few things.

One of the dealers refused to believe I got a cable that didn't work. So, I took it to the other (who is actually owned by the same dealership, but they treat people better).
As I mentioned, the original cable is part #2L54-9A758-AA (346). That actually calls for replacement cable #4L5Z-9A758-AA, which is what the first place ordered, and the second place agreed was the part called for. I contacted a third place, and that's also what they told me.

But, the housing is about twice as long from firewall to engine-top mount. It can't be coiled, because it's not long enough to do that. It can't be rerouted and secured with clips or something, because there is no provision for that. What would happen is that it would simply be a big ol' "U" flopping around loose under the hood. They said it was a fix to "get it away from the brake booster". The original is nowhere near the brake booster. It's about as short a path as possible. With that new cable, if I tried to use it, there would be a tremendous side-pull pressure at the firewall and the engine-mount tabs, and I imagine quite a lot of inside rubbing at those areas. Like I said, it would be a big "U", with no way to secure it.

Plus, the pedal end is different. The original in the picture consists of a few parts. There is a plastic pop-in (with tabs) circular device that pops into the pedal, from the front, after the cable is slid through a small slit at the top of the pedal. Then, it has that extra multi-diameter plastic piece that rides inside that, pushing on the cable end piece.You can tell in the pic, if you look closely. The new cables had the green spring-loaded one piece part. I may be wrong, but while comparing the ends while under the dash...I don't see how that green end fits into the original pedal? I saw no "snap tabs" on the green spring-loaded plastic part that would secure it to the pedal, should I remove the original round snapped-in part. Obviously, that original part would have to be removed, because the new cable couldn't go through it.

The second place actually ordered three more cables in. We all checked them out, and none of them were right. Then, they were out of options. (At least they tried.) In the 2 cables pic, the shorter one you see is actually still about 4" inches longer than the original.
I may have to try that again. It isn't right, but it may be the closest I get. The main thing I'm worried about is...will that green spring-loaded part fit into my pedal? I'd hate to remove the original one until I'm sure, because it's a fairly tight fit with the tabs. If I mess up the tabs, and it no longer functions, AND the new cable doesn't work...I'm screwed.

If it comes down to it, I may have to buy a longer cable (new or used) and snip off the pedal end to feed the new one back through the original housing, and secure it behind the original parts at the pedal end, cutiing off the excess. My main concern is, will the cable make it all the way through? If I cut the original and yank it out, and can't make the new one thread all the way through...I'm screwed. Plus, I hate to pay $60+ to Ford for a brand new cable that I have to destroy and throw most of it away, and modify just the innards to make work. (They should have a properly fiitting one for a 9-year-old truck.)

So, the "replacement" cable doesn't work. Four different techs confirmed that it's not feasible, and don't understand why it's called for. They even contacted Ford Engineering, and they didn't come up with a good answer. I wonder if I have a "tween"-year truck that they were trying to liquidate parts on, cobbled this thing together, and used a low-production cable ordered to "just make it work"?

Some appx. dimensions for the original: From firewall to engine bracket, outsides of mount flanges 17". The 4-1/4" foam rubber housing pad is appx. 4" from throttle-end mount (where the piece cuts off at the housing), and 6" toward the firewall mount (at cut-off).
The plastic round thing that pops into the pedal is appx. 7/16" OD. The multidiameter plastic spacer (seen in pic) at the pedal end is about 3/4"L overall, and about 7/16" OD (on the main cylinder).

Wvcat...I'll try to PM you, as soon as I figure that out. Meanwhile, hopefully, this provides more info.

Thanks, guys,

Howler

 

I'll post this in case anyone ever runs into the same thing.

If you try to replace an original cable #2L54-9A758-AA, Ford's official "replacement" part is #4L5Z-9A758-AA. That cable is almost twice as long as the original, and there is no elegant method to route it properly.

Ford cable #F87Z-9A758-BD is just a bit longer, and the cable ends are the proper length (from the cable mounts). With a bit of a twist while installing, it has just a bit longer "S" curve from firewall to engine mount, but not too drastic, and it's away from everything.

My main concern was the different pedal ends. Pop the original plastic ring out of the pedal, and the new spring-loaded green part slips right in (from the front). It doesn't "snap" into place as securely as the old one, but it is snug. As a precaution, I ran a small bead of silicone around the front of the pedal mating surface to act as a 'helper', to keep it from possibly popping out. (I doubt it would, but...why not. It's easy and non-destructive.)

Anyway, took a few minutes to get used to the increased throttle response. No sticking...everything's fine.

If you have to replace an original 2L54 cable, and they sell you a 4L5Z cable that's too long, ask them to try the F87Z cable. Worked for me. Finally.

Howler

 

Glad you got it figured out.

 

I have the same problem with a 1997 Ranger XLT 4.0 OHV Auto 4X2. Ford stopped making. I been on the internet for days, NO luck. HELP