I recently fixed stalling issue by cleaning the maf sensor and noticed a male nipple in the middle of the plastic air duct pointing towards the engine...theres obviously a hose missing but i dont know where it would connect too?

 

That would be the Vent or Breather hose, it is the partner and part of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation(PCV) system.
On a "V" engine it would run from Air Tube to the opposite valve cover from the PCV Valve.
On my 4.0l it is connected to the Oil Filler tube on the opposite valve cover from PCV Valve.

 

Thanks...i think it goes to the oil filler cause i just noticed a similar piece there with nothing there. Would that prevent performance since its leaking air? Also the box that holds the air filter has a piece missing where i believe the air temp sensor goes in. Its just hanging in there.

 

Yes, the Breather hose being removed from Air Tube can cause computer to receive incorrect info on air flow since MAF isn't reading all the air coming in.
And at the other end of that hose, the oil filler tube, it is a bit of a vacuum leak because PCV Valve pulls air from valve covers/crankcase and expects a reasonable seal in those areas.
Some engines will even stall if oil cap is removed while engine is idling because of the change in vacuum air flow.

IAT(intake air temp) sensor allows computer to adjust fuel/air mix for best economy based on air temp, while having it connected but out of the air stream won't change things much, you will have best MPG with it installed correctly.

I would disconnect battery(ground cable) for 5 minutes after hooking things back up correctly.
This will cause computer to reboot when it starts again, this makes computer re-learn air flow and sensor inputs, this can take 3 to 5 driving cycles

 

Thanks so much for your previous responses...im learning alot. The next problem im trying to solve is my radiator keeps overflowing out of a small outlet nipple just below the radiator cap and into the resivore. Ive recently relaced the thermostate, upper radiator hose and flushed the system. Also the upper radiator hose seems to collapse a little??? A friend suggested might be head gasket but i have no milky oil, or residue on oil cap, or white smoke?

 

Did you replace the rad cap?

Rad cap has TWO valves
The larger valve holds 14 to 18psi pressure(cap rating) in the cooling system as engine warms up, cold engine has no pressure, engine needs to run about 10minutes before coolant is hot enough to expand and cause any pressure.
As the coolant gets warmer it expands in volume so pressure in the rad builds up.
When pressure reaches 15psi(14 psi cap) large valve opens and allows some coolant to flow into the overflow tank, this is normal, when pressure is down to 14psi valve closes.

After engine is shut off coolant cools down and SHRINKS in volume so pressure in cooling system goes down, it will get to -1psi this causes the small valve in the rad cap to open and coolant is sucked back into the rad from the overflow tank.
If the small valve doesn't open or overflow tank/hose is blocked, then you get negative pressure in the cooling system and rad hoses start to collapse.
So collapsed upper rad hose reads like bad rad cap.

Cold engine, remove rad cap, coolant should be at the very top, start engine.
No coolant should come out, and no bubbling.
If coolant starts to come out and continues to spurt out then you do have a cracked head or head gasket issue.