Engine shakes when slowing down from high speeds
#1
Engine shakes when slowing down from high speeds
I have a 5-speed 3.0 2004 Edge U-Vin and am trying to figure out why when I get off an interstate the front starts to shake a lot until the rpm's go down and I am nearing a stop.
From my quick research I see it could be drive shaft related, warped rotors, or I was wondering if my tensioner/other pulleys could cause something like that.
I got under my truck and just was checking the drive shaft for play and there was a little bit, when wiggling it from the front of the truck to the back, it moved about an 1/8 of an inch. How do I go about figuring out the parts I need to replace if it is the drive shaft?
Is the drive shaft worth taking into a mechanic if I have no previous background with it, or is it a good time to learn?
Thanks for your ideas.
From my quick research I see it could be drive shaft related, warped rotors, or I was wondering if my tensioner/other pulleys could cause something like that.
I got under my truck and just was checking the drive shaft for play and there was a little bit, when wiggling it from the front of the truck to the back, it moved about an 1/8 of an inch. How do I go about figuring out the parts I need to replace if it is the drive shaft?
Is the drive shaft worth taking into a mechanic if I have no previous background with it, or is it a good time to learn?
Thanks for your ideas.
#3
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
So just to be clear, if you are at 60mph and put trans in Neutral, engine at 1,000rpm, then allow vehicle to slow down without touching the brakes you feel a vibration?
If you touch the brakes and it vibrates the rotors are warped, for sure, you need to change the calipers when you change the rotors, one is sticking which caused the warping.
If it vibrates without touching the brakes then it could be ball joints, and if vibration gets less using the brakes then I would say for sure ball joints.
If vibration is only felt when downshifting, so using the engine as a brake then could be motor mount or drive line issue.
If you open the hood and watch the engine thru the gap under the hood you can check motor mounts, put Emergency brake on, put in first gear and slowly let out the clutch while watching the engine, engine should move only slightly up on one side, now do the same test but use Reverse, engines other side should rise up but only slightly.
And in either test you should not hear a clunking sound when engine moves up or down.
No, not serpentine belt related, bad fan clutch can cause a vibration but it is RPM based, usually felt when RPMs are above 2,000 and increasing
If you touch the brakes and it vibrates the rotors are warped, for sure, you need to change the calipers when you change the rotors, one is sticking which caused the warping.
If it vibrates without touching the brakes then it could be ball joints, and if vibration gets less using the brakes then I would say for sure ball joints.
If vibration is only felt when downshifting, so using the engine as a brake then could be motor mount or drive line issue.
If you open the hood and watch the engine thru the gap under the hood you can check motor mounts, put Emergency brake on, put in first gear and slowly let out the clutch while watching the engine, engine should move only slightly up on one side, now do the same test but use Reverse, engines other side should rise up but only slightly.
And in either test you should not hear a clunking sound when engine moves up or down.
No, not serpentine belt related, bad fan clutch can cause a vibration but it is RPM based, usually felt when RPMs are above 2,000 and increasing
Last edited by RonD; 08-14-2014 at 11:37 AM.
#4
You can save a buck or two by having your current rotors resurfaced, as long as they still have enough material to stay within the thickness specification.
#5
Not necessarily. Heat shock from hard braking will cause rotors to warp just as bad. If the caliper pistons press in smoothly than I'd say your calipers are fine. Not saying a siezed caliper piston couldn't cause this problem, but more often than not it's driver habits that warp a rotor.
You can save a buck or two by having your current rotors resurfaced, as long as they still have enough material to stay within the thickness specification.
You can save a buck or two by having your current rotors resurfaced, as long as they still have enough material to stay within the thickness specification.
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