2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

intake cooling lines-problem

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Old 11-30-2010
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intake cooling lines-problem

the other day when I parked my truck, I noticed immediately a decent sized amount of water/coolant forming under it.
I immediately popped the hood and there was a steady thin stream shooting from the nipple at the top of the intake manifold, where the cooling line enters/exits.
I found a small hairline crack in the bend. well, I didnt have the time to do much about it except a quick juririg. I pulled the hose down all the way to the base of the nipple, then double clamped it, but at the end and again right where the crack was.
no problems, stopped the leak and I thought I was good to go for then and could deal with it in a week or two.
so today, I again saw some liquid, so I thought my quikfix didnt work as good as I had hoped. but this time it was the other nipple.

anyways, I guess all this rambling is leading me to ask this, are those nipples replaceable or would I have to replace the entire manifold ? (a garage down the road said they think I need to replace the entire manifold...)
 
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Old 12-13-2010
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coolant lines

Just loop the two hoses using the broken nipple and two hose clamps. all those hoses do are heat the throttle body good if you live in the arctic bad for performance. your truck will run just fine with out them.
 
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Old 12-13-2010
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hey, thanks for the reply and welcome to RF.

I went ahead and rigged something up to keep them attached. if they get worse and start leaking again, I will look into your recommendation
 
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Old 12-15-2010
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Originally Posted by T_Bishop
Just loop the two hoses using the broken nipple and two hose clamps. all those hoses do are heat the throttle body good if you live in the arctic bad for performance. your truck will run just fine with out them.
Hey thanks for this info. One of my tubes is cracked at the base of the intake and I have been trying to "patch" it with a J B weld and it just won't take the pressure. I have looped the hoses and so far so good. The timing on this answer was perfect. I was about to drop $900 on getting the Intake replaced. Thanks again T
 
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Old 01-05-2011
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wow, $900... It's to keep the throttle body from icing when it's very cold out.
 
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Old 01-05-2011
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Originally Posted by davethepear
wow, $900... It's to keep the throttle body from icing when it's very cold out.
Im just not comfortable bypassing something like this, I live in SWFL where it gets super hot in the summer, and I think they have an affect on keeping the intake cool in summer driving as well as warm in wintry climates
 
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Old 03-04-2011
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No 195 H2O temp air temp 90's humid. no they don't cool it, they heat it up for more pinging hotter engine more engine power robbimg cooling fan clutch lock up by pass it you'll see its better.
 
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Old 03-16-2011
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funny i just had the same problem on my '99 ranger 3.0. some grease munky leaned on the hose and kinked the metal tube there it comes out of the intake mani. he straightened it and thought i wouldnt see the damage.. well it finally started leaking at the kink/crack in the metal tube.. so i cleaned it up and JB welded it tonite.. we'll see how well it holds up. if it doesnt hold then i'll just connect those hoses together and bypass the throttle body heater.....
 
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Old 03-17-2011
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Greetings,

It's not a throttle body heater, people, it's an EGR cooler.

Don
 
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Old 11-06-2015
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EGR COOLER HOSES HEATER CORE TO THROTTLE BODY

A Smog technician in Northern CA just failed me because I bypassed these hoses. Now I HAVE to fix to pass smog. One nipple is broken with about a half inch good metal near the intake. other nipple is OK. Any suggestions are desperately needed!!

thanks!
 
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Old 11-06-2015
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They are there to lower emissions by warming up the upper intake faster, and to keep intake from icing in cold weather, so you will need to fix it.
You may be able to use an insert and JB Weld on the nipple then larger pipe on the end of the insert to match nipple size, then attach hose to what little of the nipple is stick out and second clamp on the added pipe.
Or bite the bullet and replace the part.

They will be checking it for hose warmth on re-inspection so I don't think you can just "fake it"
 
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