No, outside of a torque wrench just a set of metric sockets and wrenches is needed.
Oops, you will also need a fuel line tool, which is not expensive, to disconnect fuel line from engine, but you can also use it to change fuel filter if the need arises, and a fan clutch tool to remove fan from water pump.
Yes on the exhaust bolts, they can be a PITA if stuck.
I take a vehicle to my local muffler shop and tell them what I will be doing, changing heads, and they will remove all the bolts and nuts, replace any that break or get striped heads and then reinstall them "snug" not tight, so I can remove them at home/shop.
$60 usually, they have all the tools and tricks and do it every day, so what might take me 5 hours and $50 in eze-outs, drill bits and trips to parts store takes them an hour, lol
Call a local machine shop and tell them the year and engine model to see if your heads can be repaired, some can not so you need to get new heads.
Machine shops can often get a better price on heads than you can get online when you add shipping, heads are heavy.
You need a 2002 3.0l RANGER head gasket set, not 3.0l Taurus, same engine different design for head gasket.
It will come with a set of new valve guide seals, machine shop can install those for you if the heads can be rebuilt, this will save you from needing a valve spring compressor.
You need a new set of Head Bolts, old ones can not be reused.
You will want a new thermostat, new water pump is your choice, it is easy to change now, so.............
Look at your VIN number, 8th digit is the Engine Code
U is gas only 3.0l
V is Flex Fuel 3.0l
I believe it's the same head in '02 but "they" may ask.
Haynes would probably be more Ranger specific.
Only things you really need are the torque amounts and pattern for the intake and heads.
The Cam synchronizer, in the old distributor hole, also needs to be timed, like a distributor did, plenty of info out there on how to set that up
take lots of pictures when removing wiring harness, it is pretty straight forward where everything goes when putting it back on but................picture is worth a thousand words.
keep bolts and nuts with the parts that held them on.
Push rods should be put back in the same way and in the same lifter that they came out of, I use a piece of cardboard with holes for up/down and 1-3, 4-6
A/C and power steer lines don't need to be disconnected.
It will be a few days between tear down and rebuild unless you are just going to buy new heads without checking old ones.
Allow 10 hours tear down for the first time, hopefully there is no second time.
2 or 3 days for machine shop
And 8 hours for rebuild.
Without a good compression test it would be hard to say it is a valve seat issue, could be bad fuel injector.
Last edited by RonD; 05-13-2015 at 01:09 PM.