Do some searching. The guys are right. K&N does nothing but gum up you MAF sensor and suck in more hot air which is bad which ever way you want to look at it.

 

I just have a hard time believeing that the heated air from the exhaust manifolds which arnt even close to the air filter is going to make a difference. When driving the air is constantly being replaced whether is is throught the radiator or any other opening in the front part of the vehicle or from underneith. Its being pushed back towards the firewall, not towards the air filter.

 

If it makes you feel better about your mistake of buying one,
keep on believing!

 

i made my ducting out of pvc, ince it doesn't conduct heat as well or as fast as metal, adn the air coming in is going to cooler than with metal pipe, the pvc also cools down alot faster than the metal, when i put mine in i could feel altille more power, gave it the hill test, and i gave it a growl, just don't see the point in using metal ducting for a cold air in take other than for looks.

 

I just dont think you have proof that the air is hotter with a CAI when the truck is moving.

I think you have a believe and I think its wrong.

 

Why do you think Ford designed their intake to pull air from in front of the radiator, instead of the engine compartment?

Just to repeat myself, the OEM intake is a true CAI, not HAI like the aftermarkets.......

 

You pull up to an old lady driving a Grand Marquis in the Acme parking lot and rev at her. "Right here, right now broski!" you scream, and she replies "But I need to go home and feed my kitten." You rev at her again and train your eyes across the parking lot at a photo hut about 1/8 a mile away. You know your 3.0 can easily pull a 1/8 mile in the high 30s, her 4.6L ain't got sh*t. You have a stick shift. She's done for. You glance back at her through your passenger window and nod towards the photo hut, she stares back through coke bottle glasses and mouths "You're going down sonny." It's on! You honk your horn three times in slow rapid succession and rev up to the 3k limiter, she turns off the OD and poises to stamp down on the skinny pedal with the brute force of a small child. Just as you let off the clutch you here a hollow thud and a bang. The tachometer drops and the truck stalls out. Your clutch slave gave out under the awesome power of the 3.0 and on top of it your trusty Ford 7.5 couldn't handle the tire squealing torque and sheared off the ring gear. You watch in hopeless defeat as the old women madly weaves her way around carts and strollers to the photo hut at excesses of 10 MPH. She coolly pulls up to the photo hut and turns around to head back your way. She makes a victory lap around your broken truck, which is now in flames due to the faulty cruise-control switch, blaring "Tokyo Drift" by the Teriyaki Boyz. She grins and drives away, she has to go feed Mr. Fluffy.

 

I have tried and proven this to be the case on my f-150. I have a programmer which displays the iat. Before the K&N install i was seeing IAT temps at (or very close to) ambient temp. After i put the K&N "cold air" on it I am now seeing temps at least 15* higher at cruising speeds and at idle they are as much as 80-100* above ambient at times. Believe what you will, but those are cold hard facts.

 

Wirelessly posted (Timberwolf)

Get a snorkle.

 

I would say Hot Hard Facts!!! Once again, a K&N HAI!!

Thanks for your post!

 

No, the easiest thing to do is go back to the OEM intake setup, and stay with it if you haven't made the stupid mistake to go with the K&N HAI!

 

this thread delivers haha.

it has been proven time and again your intake temps will go up. what everyone with a ranger calls a cai is actually a sri. a cai would remove the air box run down past the frame and sit the filter behind by the front bumper to draw "cool clean" air, but when you have a metal pipe that sits directly behind your radiator the temp of the air at the beginning of the system wouldnt matter regardless of if it came from the engine compartment or not because its goin to go through that heated conductive tube before the engine.

the one thing i do love intake mods on though is 4 bangers. a 4 cyl with a intake and stock exhaust almost always sounds as beasty and is always much cleaner then a 4 cyl with a stock intake and an exhaust system. personally on my duratak i run the stock air box no silencer, wix paper filter, and a 2.5" polished aluminum tube i hacked to size from my integras cai, i dont feel any extra power, but it does sound louder inside the cab then a 4.0 with a catback and that is worth it.

 

its called a cold air intake becasue of the fact that you are receiving more air from through the radiator and the updraft. you can hear the amount of air you begin to recieve once you have changed out your box. if you go to oreilly auto parts they have adapters for you mass air flow sensor

 

what about picking up cold air under the bumper with a scoop and some hose type plumbing? could even be some "forced" air with the right scoop, just a thought

chuck