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2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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Old 04-01-2016
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I am: dashonn
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Windsor
Vehicle: 1987 ranger
Drive Type: 4x4
Engine: 2.9
Posts: 2
Total Props: 0
need help asap

Ok i got a 1987 Ford ranger revs high when frist started up then drops down to normal sum times bounces around when idling but drives good but whe it seem to warm up it u floor it like bogs out and put out black smoke so push the clutch in a rev it ip goes away drive for another 3 min same thing ya cant go no fasts it slows like down and u havw it to the floor bur it like backing firing and popping throw the intake is is a a bad sensor ? Tps /iac/?need help asap
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Old 04-02-2016
iTrader: (1)
I am: Ron Dean
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Vancouver, BC
Vehicle: 1994 Ford Ranger
Drive Type: 4x4
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 4,764
Total Props: 88
reads like engine is being flooded out

First thing I would do is see if you have fuel leaking into the intake.
After engine is warmed up.
Find the Fuel Pressure regulator.
It will look like a short tube and have a vacuum hose and the Return fuel hose attached.
Remove the vacuum hose and check it for fuel, if there is fuel in there then replace regulator.

Next test
Engine is still warm
Press gas pedal to the floor and hold it down all the way
Turn key on
Try to start engine, leaving gas pedal ALL THE WAY down.

It should not start
It should not even fire

Gas pedal to the floor and then key on tells computer to shut off fuel injectors, it is called "Clear Flooded Engine" Mode"
If engine fires or starts then you have a leaking fuel injector.

But it could be your throttle cable has stretched so gas pedal to the floor does not get wide open throttle(WOT) any more, you need WOT for the test.
So do this, put something on gas pedal so it is down all the way, or get some one to press down on it.
Now go to the throttle linkage on the engine and see if you can manually open the throttle more, if so then cable has stretched.
Google: Ranger throttle cable mod
super easy to fix
Then test again.

If there is no gas leaking into intake then you should clean the IAC Valve, 2 bolts and a little elbow grease.

When engine starts cold idle should go up above 1,500rpm then settle down to just above 1,100rpm.
It should stay up and then slowly come down as engine coolant warms up, over the next 5 to 10 minutes, then be at 600-700rpm, warm engine idle

If it's doesn't do this then due for a cleaning.

Check the MAP sensor, it will be on the firewall passenger side toward the middle.
Often behind wiring harness, small square and usually black.
It will have a vacuum hose and electrical connector.
Remove both, check connector for water/corrosion, hood gasket leak can get that connection wet.
Check vacuum hose it runs to intake manifold, follow it and get both ends, remove it and check that it still holds vacuum, i.e. suck on one end while plugging the other end with your finger.
If hose is brittle or cracked replace it.
MAP sensor data is how the computer sets air/fuel mix, so an important sensor.

Other end of the air/fuel ratio is the O2 sensor.
When was yours last changed?
They last 100k miles, if you think is has been longer then time to change it.

TPS wouldn't cause your symptoms.
But can be tested with volt meter
get a volt meter and set it for DC Volts
get a sew pin and stick it into the Center wire on the TPS, there are 3, top, bottom, center
Turn on key, engine off
Put meter's black probe on a ground
Red probe on the sewing pin

With throttle closed it should read .69 to .99 volts, under 1 volt

While still reading the voltage start to open throttle manually, voltage should slowly go up, no jumping around or dropping down.
When you get to WOT voltage should be over 4.5volts, 4.50 to 4.90 volts

Last edited by RonD; 04-02-2016 at 07:11 PM.
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