hi again, 3.0 4x4 auto

ok my lil truck is throwing codes again, this time for the evap purge solinoid!

my first question is, are there two in series.

the reason i ask is the parts store has two different parts shown, i replaced the cheaper of the two, code went away and then came back. truck runs like crap right now! wish i could deleat that mess.

me second question is, what do yall think about doing a egr block off plate between the egr and manifold, leaving every thing hooked up, but the intake blocked off?

thanks for all the help, past, present and future!

 

I wouldn't block your EGR valve, it would probably "ping" with out that working.
Is your DPFE sensor still the metal one ? (assuming that the 95 has one)
If your truck is the same as my 99, there is the evap purge solenoid valve that is on top of the drivers fender well by the fuse box.
That may be at fault.
Temporarily disconnect this at the intake manifold and block of both ports _ see if the truck doesn't run any better.
If it's faulty it may be causing a vacuum leak.
"A-Wolf" disconnected this valve to see if his fuel millage improved.

And there are two valves involved, the cheap one at the back under the box and the one mentioned near the fender well _ the expensive one.

I have a code for EVAP system too, but I haven't got around to trouble shooting it yet.
When I do, I'm going to look for cracked and or leaking lines in that system _ checking with a vacuum pump.

Here's a photo from an old post of the expensive valve.
I never really did figure out how it's supposed to work, but from what I have learned so far is that the computer controls the vacuum through that electrical connection allowing vacuum into the main diaphragm, opening and closing the valve.
The action of the valve opening and closing allows the fumes from the charcoal canister to be burned through he intake manifold port.
Any number of things can go wrong here, a leak in the diaphragm, a bad electrical connection and or the solenoid motor itself is not functioning properly.
Cracked lines feeding in and out of the valve, including the yellow vacuum line that operates the valve.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/2-9l-3...7/#post2107199

 

i will take a pic to show, a pic is worth a thousand words

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...V4NDBFbm5tUk1N

my finger is pointing to the cheap one i replaced along with vac hose from intake

 

is that another solinoid to the right? aka the expensive one?

 

Your 95 is very different from my 99.
There should be a diagram of all of this just above the rad where the hood catch is.
A photo of that will be helpful.

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...h6THUtMy04U2Vr

lol just remember it was born on 6/95, alas no sticker for vacuum diagram. lol

the factory dosn't know if it is a "95" or "96" and the dealership told me that!

 

It's just so different from mine that I can't be of much help.
However there should still be a rather large line coming from the EVAP system that connects to the intake manifold.
If you disconnect this and block off that port so there is no vacuum leak and the truck runs as normal, then that will at least tell you that there is a problem for sure with the EVAP system.
And that problem will be a vacuum leak in the EVAP system somewhere.

You also said that it runs like crap, it's possible that when you connected up the new part that a faulty line was disturbed or something was disconnected accidently.

 

After going to Rock Auto.
The line with he green arrow on it appears to be the one connected to the intake manifold.
Disconnect that and block off the port on the manifold and see if the truck runs better.
Don't bother blocking off the line, it doesn't matter at this point.

The red arrow points to what appears to be part of the air conditioning (not too sure about that though).
The blue arrow points to the EVAP canister.
I would also start by checking the lines for leaks in and out of the canister.

 

nope the port on the intake sucks hard, would be hard to notice a leak there

 

yes you are correct, green arrow is the vac line i just replaced to intake, red arrow is a/c, and the blue arrow is evap canister

start at green arrow ,follow hose to the second thing in line to the evap, what is it ? a second purge solenoid?

 

I would say the other one is the vent back to the fuel tank or a check valve of some sort.
There will be a line somewhere in all that going back to the fuel tank, possibly from the carbon canister.
Disconnect the vacuum line from the intake manifold and plug it off with something.
If there is an improvement in how the engine runs then there is a vacuum leak somewhere in the EVAP system.
The engine doesn't need the EVAP system to run properly, but if there is a small leak in it somewhere, then the engine will run poorly or vey bad depending on how big the leak is.
By disconnecting that line and plugging off the vacuum port in the intake manifold, we can determine if there is a fault in the system for sure.
And most likely there is since you're getting a code, but I just like to do my own trouble shooting method with out entirely depending on what the computer says.

Do you have a vacuum pump ?
That's one of the ways to start checking the system, and that is to start checking the lines (one at a time) to see if they hold vacuum.

Don't assume that even though you replaced the line with the green arrow, that there isn't another leak somewhere down in the system.

 

question is why two of the same thing? aka purge valve? they both have a electrical connection!

 

lol now that i have reread your post jeff, when i disconnected the green arrow hose and put my finger over it, it had so much suxtion that it hurt! lol and the way the engine ran didnt change

 

Both have electrical connections because (I'm guessing here) that one is the sensor.
If the way the engine ran when you disconnected and plugged the green arrow hose didn't change, then there is another issue.

You say the engine runs like "crap" ?
Miss-firing, too much fuel (rich) lean _ barely running ?
Did this happen after you changed the solenoid or before ?
Or did this happen shortly after the solenoid was replaced ?

 

just got the egr tube fixed and pulled codes to make sure there were no other codes besides egr codes and it was there! it has been running lean due the egr pipe being broke. maybe i just need to run it on the interstate to relearn the ecu.

it lopes like it has a race cam in it and will die after a few minutes and is hard to start after it is warmed up

possible the new dpfe took a dump?

 

Unlikely the new DPFE sensor is at fault, the new ones are solid state.
If you think the EGR system is at fault, remove the actual EGR valve that's bolted onto the intake manifold and temporally blank it off.
The valve itself doesn't usually fail and if it does, it will fail closed because the diaphragm has developed a hole in it.
They also can get carboned up and cause a vacuum leak. In this state they never close and are always allowing exhaust gas to be sucked into the engine.
The engine would run quite poorly if this happened.

The small tubes that run into the DPFE sensor can become clogged as well, but unlikely.

I would check to see if the EGR valve is closing as my first step.

Another problem source is the PCV (positive crank case ventilation) valve.
It's well hidden on the drivers valve cover as well as the line.
It "ports' into another inlet on the underside of the in take manifold _ it's very hard to see.
Go through that system and make sure there are no leaks in it.

I've disconnected my PCV valve, I've plugged off the intake port on the manifold and removed the guts inside the valve.
It just simply vents out into the atmosphere like in the old days.
I plan to "T" it into the other side so any engine gasses will get sucked into the intake like the one on the passengers side.

I don't know why they bothered with that PCV valve, it's just a source of trouble and it's not monitored by the computer.

 

lol just got done running the interstate at 75-80 mph and first stop light it dies! finally get it started and two foot it home, pull codes, p0402 wtf

im gona block the egr intake port with a beer can, cel dosnt come on either

 

In the manual that code is "EGR Valve, excessive flow detected"
The computer is opening the EGR valve at that speed and it's sticking open.
Sounds like it anyway.
Of course with it stuck open, it creates a huge vacuum leak and it will stall.
Assuming that is the problem.

 

sounds like beer can time!

 

hmmm just thinkin out loud, could the egr valve flange get warped enuff to cause it to stick?

like a over heated head that is warped?

 

No.
I can't see that ever happening.

 

then dpfe? ill block off before i pay another $75

 

Not the DPFE sensor, the EGR valve itself may be sticking open.

There is also this, but this doesn't usually give problems.
There is a filter on there that can be cleaned out though _ mine was dirty, but a dirty filter won't cause the truck to stall.
EGR valve control solenoid motor. The computer controls how much vacuum is applied to the EGR valve through this.

More Information for AIRTEX/WELLS 2F1128

EDIT:
I went to the Mazda dealer and got my DPFE sensor from them, it was way cheaper then the Ford dealer and it was the same part.

 

lol $75 was from advanced auto parts, i can get one from rock for half that, that is one sensor i havent replaced yet! hmmmm i hope it is cheap! lol

for 20 bucks i might just replace it for gp!