Ranger not starting, only clicking. Possible flooding. HELP!!!!!!
I need some help... I went out tonight (xmas eve) mobbin with a few friends and found some pretty huge puddles. Had fun throughout the session and on the way back I hit a same big puddle again and my truck made it half way through and sputtered to a stall and shut off. I tried starting it and it would just click. Had it towed a few more yards and tried again and nothing but clicks. Climbed under it and hit the starter a few times and cranked it with a flathead and tried again but no luck. Truck won't start for ****. Even hooked up jumpers and it almost turned but no luck, just went back to clicks. Had it towed finally at 1AM on xmas eve in the rain which sucked.
I gotta get up in the morning and take it apart. But I need your guy's advice on what to do. Do you think it's flooded? Do you think I should just take off all the spark plugs and sand paper em? Maybe start the truck with no plugs and maybe it will shoot out water?
I'll appreciate any help given by anyone!!!!
Took all spark plugs out and turned it over to get excess water and gas out. Dried them all off and reinstalled them. Cranked it over again with some starter fluid and it started right up but with a nice piston or rod knock to go with it. I guess my engine is SOL...
How hard is it to change out the rod/piston? Any thoughts?
if you think the motor is allready trashed and plan on swaping something else in it, just run it. I had a 92 3.0 got some water sucked up the intake. Burned a quart of oil every time i filled the gas tank and had a little knock and a miss. drove it like that 80,xxx miles still ran strong, then I sold it. Probably still runs.
yup...sounds like worse case might be a reality. i for one held back on mentioning the worse case scenero.
i would still change oil...run seafoam or that motorcraft stuff through it...throw in new plugs...and see what happens.
Get yourself a compression tester to test each cylinders compression. draining your oil should reveal metal particles if a rod too a dump. you could possibly risk rotating assembly seizure if a rod is broke and you decide to run the engine...just a heads up.
how's that oil pan look? dents? holes? etc....hows the oil level?
3.0L's are cheap and everywhere pretty much. I'd get a new engine. I believe you posted 100k miles recently? might as well get a 50k unit or something for $500 and swap it yourself.
hot engine probably running hotter than normal...that engine hits cold cold water.....equals.......crackage.