Ranger rust nutralizer TSB - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource
Ford Ranger Forum - Forums for Ford Ranger enthusiast!

Go Back   Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource Arrow Ranger-Forums Technical Engine Forum Arrow 2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech

2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-19-2015
Thread Starter

I am: michael
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Beachwood
Vehicle: 1994 ranger
Drive Type: 4x2
Engine: 3.0
Posts: 34
Total Props: 0
Ranger rust nutralizer TSB

After flushing my coolant system twice in 6 in a year after reoccurring rust and jammed thermostats I know have rust buildup again and a water pump with fins that are pretty much rusted off...I've also only used distilled water...anyway I discovered this is a common problem with Vulcans and Ford put out a TSB regarding the use of an iron nutralizer to help stop this...I also believe there's another TPS regarding a water pump replacement with sealed fins or something. Does anyone know what #'s these TSB's are and where I may be able to access them for free???

94 3.0 Vulcan
Thanks in advance!!!
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
Old 12-19-2015
iTrader: (1)
I am: Ron Dean
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Vancouver, BC
Vehicle: 1994 Ford Ranger
Drive Type: 4x4
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 4,749
Total Props: 88
Silicate based coolant(green stuff) needs to be changed every 2 years, so flushed and changed.
Twice in 6 years means corrosion would have started.
You could change to a HOAT coolant, which is good for 5 years, and actually better in engines that use iron blocks and aluminum in the cooling system, i.e. intakes, rads, heads, etc....

First I would check for electrolysis(voltage) in your cooling system.

Set volt meter for 20vDC
Remove rad cap
Put negative meter probe on negative battery post
Put positive meter probe in coolant, don't touch the side or core of rad.
write it down, even 0.00

Now start engine, leaving rad cap off.
test again
write it down

Have someone rev engine to 2,000RPMs and hold it there
Test voltage again
write it down.

Shut off engine

acceptable level is no higher than 0.3volts
at 0.4v you will start getting corrosion from electrolysis

Water pump fins are prime target for electrolysis, it will eat them away fairly fast.

If you are higher than 0.3v then check engine Ground to battery.
Ground alternator to that engine ground.

The main corrosion protection in coolant is the PH level, Acid=1--------14=Base, water is PH 7.
You can see all around you that rain(water at 7 PH) can cause metal to rust, when you add salts it gets an acidic PH so rusts faster.
Silicate Coolant concentrate has a PH of 10.5, when mixed 50/50 with water it's PH is 8.75 which helps prevent rusting, 60/40 mix has 9.5 PH which will last longer, but less cooling in hot weather.
Over time, 2 years, the coolants PH will drop, when it gets down to 8 you are looking at corrosion starting almost everywhere in the cooling system.

HOAT coolant is an organic acid coolant, so PH is only 8, it uses a different method to prevent corrosion, so it's use time is longer, it was also developed because of the issues from using different metal types in the cooling systems, silicate based coolant was developed in the 1920's, lol, and it still works just need to change it religiously on the newer engines.

If coolant gets acidic enough the engine becomes a battery and electrolysis voltage gets high.

You have to be careful if you use a chemical flush, these tend to be acidic so if ANY is left in the engine, rad or heater core it will change the PH of the new coolant, so 2 year coolant becomes a 6 month coolant.
Flush with tap water after chemical flush, a few times if in doubt.

I saw some Taurus/Sable 3.0l cooling system TSBs, they were related to the rusting out from an issue in intake manifold crossover in cooling system.

I don't recall any Ranger 3.0l issues along those lines, and not alot of posts regarding this issue either, like you would expect if it was a manufacturing defect.

Here is one of the Taurus TSBs: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/fo...SB_01-11-6.pdf

Last edited by RonD; 12-19-2015 at 06:37 PM.
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Want to Buy: Low rust or rust free bed. -NoVA GreaseMonkey01 Interior, Exterior, Electrical, & Misc. 8 04-23-2013 06:30 PM
Rust under the truck but no rust on body, bad? BIG45-70 General Ford Ranger Discussion 8 12-13-2010 08:47 AM
09 Ranger TSB - Starter/Transmission 0RangerEdge2 General Ford Ranger Discussion 0 06-18-2009 12:51 AM
All TSB's For 2001 Ford Ranger Sad_Savant General Technical & Electrical 2 05-03-2005 08:13 PM
Anybody have access to TSB's? rngprerunner General Technical & Electrical 3 04-29-2005 02:26 PM

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:29 AM.