Starter won't crank/fuel problem 92 ranger
#1
Starter won't crank/fuel problem 92 ranger
This is kind of just a problem I need to fix to be able to find a possibly bigger problem.
Replaced fuel pump and relay switch a month ago.
1 week later a fuel line comes off (not sure if it's a return line or?) so I hose clamp the rubber boot to the engine side. Tried to start, and the fuel line blows out of the rubber boot. So I hose clamp the fuel line into the rubber boot. (Both sides are now hose clamped so they do not come out)
I try starting and it doesn't crank.
I replace starter, they give me starter for the 3.0 and it's too small so for some reason I have a 4.0 starter but I'm pretty sure mine is a 3.0 (92 single cab 4x4 XLT)
After I replace starter I try to start and it will attempt to crank only to abruptly stop. Battery has full charge. I stripped batter wires and cleaned terminals. I checked butt connection of starter wires. Still no luck. There will be times where if I hold the key over long enough it was start cranking but it's only been able to a couple times.
I got under and checked the starter after a while of trying to start and it was EXTREMELY hot to the point where I could not put my hands near the starter.
What do you guys think? About either problem, starter not cranking or truck not starting after I hose clamped the fuel line.
One other snip bit, when the fuel line came out of the rubber boot a little and it was leaking fuel from the connection, I got the truck to BARELY start and run very weakly. Long enough to get out and look under the hood to see that fuel was spraying from the connection. But now that I have the connection sealed it doesn't even try to start.
Replaced fuel pump and relay switch a month ago.
1 week later a fuel line comes off (not sure if it's a return line or?) so I hose clamp the rubber boot to the engine side. Tried to start, and the fuel line blows out of the rubber boot. So I hose clamp the fuel line into the rubber boot. (Both sides are now hose clamped so they do not come out)
I try starting and it doesn't crank.
I replace starter, they give me starter for the 3.0 and it's too small so for some reason I have a 4.0 starter but I'm pretty sure mine is a 3.0 (92 single cab 4x4 XLT)
After I replace starter I try to start and it will attempt to crank only to abruptly stop. Battery has full charge. I stripped batter wires and cleaned terminals. I checked butt connection of starter wires. Still no luck. There will be times where if I hold the key over long enough it was start cranking but it's only been able to a couple times.
I got under and checked the starter after a while of trying to start and it was EXTREMELY hot to the point where I could not put my hands near the starter.
What do you guys think? About either problem, starter not cranking or truck not starting after I hose clamped the fuel line.
One other snip bit, when the fuel line came out of the rubber boot a little and it was leaking fuel from the connection, I got the truck to BARELY start and run very weakly. Long enough to get out and look under the hood to see that fuel was spraying from the connection. But now that I have the connection sealed it doesn't even try to start.
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
'92 fuel system should have 35-45psi of pressure so hose clamps on smooth line don't work well, barbed fittings can be used but they are also marginal.
You got a bad starter motor if it was getting hot.
New no longer means "It works"
New now means "Never tested"
So............
Have a look at these pictures to make sure of your engine size, it does matter.
3.0l here: The Ford Ranger 3.0L Vulcan V-6
4.0l: The Ford Ranger 4.0L Engine - The Ranger Station
You got a bad starter motor if it was getting hot.
New no longer means "It works"
New now means "Never tested"
So............
Have a look at these pictures to make sure of your engine size, it does matter.
3.0l here: The Ford Ranger 3.0L Vulcan V-6
4.0l: The Ford Ranger 4.0L Engine - The Ranger Station
#3
'92 fuel system should have 35-45psi of pressure so hose clamps on smooth line don't work well, barbed fittings can be used but they are also marginal.
You got a bad starter motor if it was getting hot.
New no longer means "It works"
New now means "Never tested"
So............
Have a look at these pictures to make sure of your engine size, it does matter.
3.0l here: The Ford Ranger 3.0L Vulcan V-6
4.0l: The Ford Ranger 4.0L Engine - The Ranger Station
You got a bad starter motor if it was getting hot.
New no longer means "It works"
New now means "Never tested"
So............
Have a look at these pictures to make sure of your engine size, it does matter.
3.0l here: The Ford Ranger 3.0L Vulcan V-6
4.0l: The Ford Ranger 4.0L Engine - The Ranger Station
I've been told that there's a solenoid on the fire wall that might have something to do with it?
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
1992 Starter motor should have a built in starter relay/solenoid.
If you look at this picture:
The larger terminal at the top back of the "solenoid" connects DIRECTLY to the Battery +(positive) terminal.
The smaller terminal on the left back of "solenoid" is the "S" terminal of the internal starter relay, this connects to a smaller wire that goes to the Key Switch(ignition switch), when you turn the Key to START that sends 12volts to this terminal and starter relay/solenoid closes and battery power is sent from upper post to lower post(starter motor) in picture.
This is a generic picture not meant to be match to 3.0l starter motor.
Older vehicles used to have a separate Starter Relay on the fender well, and the "S" wire and Battery + cable connected to this relay, the solenoid on the starter motor was activated by this Relay.
This fender relay was often mistakenly called the starter solenoid.
A Solenoid is a device that causes physical motion when activated and deactivated, in a starter motor the solenoid pushes starter's gear out to turn flywheel then pulls it back in
A Relay is a device that passes electrical power or cuts power when activated or deactivated.
On newer vehicles the starter relay and solenoid are combined
If you look at this picture:
Amazon.com: NEW Ford Mini Starter Ranger Truck 2.3L 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 F17U-11000-AB F1TZ-11002-A F1TZ-11002-ARM F87U-11000-A1A F17U-AB F87U-A1A F87U-A1B F87U-AA ZZM0-18-400: Automotive
The larger terminal at the top back of the "solenoid" connects DIRECTLY to the Battery +(positive) terminal.
The smaller terminal on the left back of "solenoid" is the "S" terminal of the internal starter relay, this connects to a smaller wire that goes to the Key Switch(ignition switch), when you turn the Key to START that sends 12volts to this terminal and starter relay/solenoid closes and battery power is sent from upper post to lower post(starter motor) in picture.
This is a generic picture not meant to be match to 3.0l starter motor.
Older vehicles used to have a separate Starter Relay on the fender well, and the "S" wire and Battery + cable connected to this relay, the solenoid on the starter motor was activated by this Relay.
This fender relay was often mistakenly called the starter solenoid.
A Solenoid is a device that causes physical motion when activated and deactivated, in a starter motor the solenoid pushes starter's gear out to turn flywheel then pulls it back in
A Relay is a device that passes electrical power or cuts power when activated or deactivated.
On newer vehicles the starter relay and solenoid are combined
Last edited by RonD; 10-12-2015 at 02:54 PM.
#5
1992 Starter motor should have a built in starter relay/solenoid.
If you look at this picture: Amazon.com: NEW Ford Mini Starter Ranger Truck 2.3L 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 F17U-11000-AB F1TZ-11002-A F1TZ-11002-ARM F87U-11000-A1A F17U-AB F87U-A1A F87U-A1B F87U-AA ZZM0-18-400: Automotive
The larger terminal at the top back of the "solenoid" connects DIRECTLY to the Battery +(positive) terminal.
The smaller terminal on the left back of "solenoid" is the "S" terminal of the internal starter relay, this connects to a smaller wire that goes to the Key Switch(ignition switch), when you turn the Key to START that sends 12volts to this terminal and starter relay/solenoid closes and battery power is sent from upper post to lower post(starter motor) in picture.
This is a generic picture not meant to be match to 3.0l starter motor.
Older vehicles used to have a separate Starter Relay on the fender well, and the "S" wire and Battery + cable connected to this relay, the solenoid on the starter motor was activated by this Relay.
This fender relay was often mistakenly called the starter solenoid.
A Solenoid is a device that causes physical motion when activated and deactivated, in a starter motor the solenoid pushes starter's gear out to turn flywheel then pulls it back in
A Relay is a device that passes electrical power or cuts power when activated or deactivated.
On newer vehicles the starter relay and solenoid are combined
If you look at this picture: Amazon.com: NEW Ford Mini Starter Ranger Truck 2.3L 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 F17U-11000-AB F1TZ-11002-A F1TZ-11002-ARM F87U-11000-A1A F17U-AB F87U-A1A F87U-A1B F87U-AA ZZM0-18-400: Automotive
The larger terminal at the top back of the "solenoid" connects DIRECTLY to the Battery +(positive) terminal.
The smaller terminal on the left back of "solenoid" is the "S" terminal of the internal starter relay, this connects to a smaller wire that goes to the Key Switch(ignition switch), when you turn the Key to START that sends 12volts to this terminal and starter relay/solenoid closes and battery power is sent from upper post to lower post(starter motor) in picture.
This is a generic picture not meant to be match to 3.0l starter motor.
Older vehicles used to have a separate Starter Relay on the fender well, and the "S" wire and Battery + cable connected to this relay, the solenoid on the starter motor was activated by this Relay.
This fender relay was often mistakenly called the starter solenoid.
A Solenoid is a device that causes physical motion when activated and deactivated, in a starter motor the solenoid pushes starter's gear out to turn flywheel then pulls it back in
A Relay is a device that passes electrical power or cuts power when activated or deactivated.
On newer vehicles the starter relay and solenoid are combined
Now to my next problem, it will not start. I have the fuel line that comes out of the pressure regulator hose clamped on both ends of the connector.
Whenever the hose wasn't sealed all the way and some fuel sprayed out the truck would hardly start and hardly run. But now that it's sealed it will not start at all.
Not sure what it may be. Note that I did just recently change the fuel pump/filter. Not sure maybe a bad pressure regulator? Thoughts?
#6
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
That hose is the Return fuel line, it shouldn't have any pressure as it is open at the fuel tank end.
It will have fuel flowing but not under much pressure, as the fuel pressure regulator(FPR) should be closed until engine starts.
Check the vacuum hose on the FPR and see if it has fuel in it, it shouldn't.
Also cycle the key on and off 3 or 4 times then check if there is fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail, should be 35-40psi of pressure, fuel will spray out 20-30ft so be careful.
If pressure is low then FPR could be bad
It will have fuel flowing but not under much pressure, as the fuel pressure regulator(FPR) should be closed until engine starts.
Check the vacuum hose on the FPR and see if it has fuel in it, it shouldn't.
Also cycle the key on and off 3 or 4 times then check if there is fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail, should be 35-40psi of pressure, fuel will spray out 20-30ft so be careful.
If pressure is low then FPR could be bad
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