on left

 

Those plugs looks like it's running hot and lean.

 

How do resolve this ? I've got O2 sensors coming.

 

O2 sensors are a good idea, even if you don't get a code for them, they become inefficient as they age _ there are three of them.
I went through the whole thread too and the MAF sensor was never mentioned.
When was the last time you cleaned it _ and air filter ???
There is a special cleaner for the MAF sensor, use only that.

One thing from being here on this forum that I've discovered is that it never seems to be one specific thing, but any number of little things that can cause one annoying symptom or problem.

 

I cleaned the MAF this weekend, air filter is new. Sprayed some starter fluid on lines looking for possible vacuum leaks too. O2 sensors have never been changed, so hopefully that helps ? Also down my list was an Air Charge Temperature Sensor..............Anything else ??????

 

Don't do too may things at once, just do the O2 sensors for now.
There are two sensors that tells the ECU that the engine is cold.
The one in the water jacket (two wires) and the one in the intake tube after the MAF sensor and before the throttle valve.

Did you do Ron's vacuum test by disconnecting the IAC valve, the rpm's should drop to the point of almost stalling ?

Do you still have the metal DPFE sensor ?

 

The IAC vacuum test is good.

The coolant sensor will go on the list, the other one you mention I'm guessing is the is Air Charge Temperature Sensor in the intake tube ? I've looked for EGR/DPFE info on this 06 3.0 and find nothing, this is the only thing it comes up with for my vin #.

2006 Ford Ranger EGR Pressure Sensor Tube | FordParts.com

 

Should look like this according to rockauto.
You probably have the plastic upper intake manifold, so I'm not sure where Ford put it.
Mine is bolted right at the top of the manifold sort of beside the throttle valve.
Look for the EGR chimney pipe off the exhaust, there will be two tubes running from it _ follow the tubes to the DPFE sensor.

I'm not saying that this will solve your original problem, but if you're still running the metal one, it may contribute to it.

More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS VP8T

 

Here's a quick video, having to keep the starter turning until it finally decides to run.

 

I keep getting these P0306 and P0316 codes, I've decided what I'm smelling must be raw fuel. Pulled the wire at the coil and there's spark with it running, spark at the plug end of wire too. Put a plug in and started it, then pulled it and it seemed wet and smelled of fuel.

 

google p306 and p316 codes and the first thing that pops up is ckp sensor

have you inspected the wiring, the ruluctor ring for dirt or garbage on or in it?

 

New crank sensor and new #6 plug. Cleared codes.

Same codes returned.

According to the haynes manual I just got in the mail, mine I had only went to 2000, there is no egr on the 3.0 after 2002 ?

 

P0306, misfire #6
P0316, random misfires

2004 to 2006 Ranger 3.0l engines had incorrect exhaust valve seats installed, they would recess into the head causing lower compression misfires.

TSB was issued for this in 2005, TSB here: Ford Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 05-26-3

You have a "new" engine, is that new as in new, or new as in rebuilt, or new as in new to you and was in another vehicle before you got it?

Early 2000's ranger 3.0l coil packs had a bad batch that would cause misfires

 

This is a crate motor from Ford, now has 6000 miles on it. Been through the recessed valve thing on the original, managed to get 297,000 out of it though clattering valves toward the end.

I'm wondering if I have glitchy coil or wire ?

 

New coil, no codes yet. Still doesn't wan't to start right, same symptoms as first posts.

 

Continued to get the codes. Replaced #6 injector, so far no codes or start up issues.

 

hmmm it might come back or not. electrical grimlan! lol