Ok, so here is my story.. My truck is a 1993 XL supercab 4x4, auto, with 40k....The truck was a shop truck until last summer, so I really don't know what maintenance was done during that time...
Anyway, this summer my check oil light began coming on sporadically, just for a few minutes at a time..I took it to a shop, they said it was the oil fill sensor, so no biggie...
So I'm driving home, I keep thinking I see smoke coming out the back, but it's so hazy I really can't tell..So I pull off to take a look under the hood, before I can pull off, my coolant temp needle starts jumping. (not a normal rise/fall, but snap your fingers and it goes to hot, back to normal, back to hot, etc....) I check my coolant, its full, let the truck sit for a bit, then start again.. As I'm driving down the road, I feel like when I push down on the gas, not much is happening. Truck is at the upper end of the normal range, but not in the danger zone. I pull off at a gas station, and when I try to pull back on, my revs go up, but I have zero power...Truck overheats, spews nasty dark kinda thick brown coolant from the plastic reservoir, and loses all the transmission fluid. (IDK where the fluid came from, I couldn't pinpoint it at the time.)
I get it towed to a shop.. The guy fills the transmission fluid, and the truck is running and shifting fine, but it is running really hot really quick... I haven't talked to him yet to see if the trans fluid has leaked out yet.
Does this spark up anyone's brains? Anybody have an idea what could be the possible problem? I'm thinking maybe the trans cooler, or something, I may have him replace the thermostat...I'm kind of at a loss here. I don't want to spend booku money and still not have a reliable truck that i can trust...
I'm going to bypass the radiator cooler and put an after market cooler on - there is a possibility that our Upper Vent is clogged on the top of the tranny causing it not ot vent properly, and then it's overheating as well.
I'm going to do the external cooler tonight probably or this weekend, but I'm going to drive it tonight. I actually overfilled the tranny the night it happened AFter I dumped all the tranny fluid, but it drives Fine now.
i'm hoping that the external cooler will help and keep it running until I get it ironed out I won't be driving more than about 30 miles at a time.
Glad to hear someone else is having the problem BTW, I had slight front Tranny seal leak, but it DUMPED everything when it got hot, and with no fluid it wouldn't move, now with fluid it moves fine and drives fine.
Subing to this to see if your fix can fix mine if my fix doesn't work.
OH, I'm planning on M5OD swap due to this or a ZF swap because I didn't like being towed home one bit...
replace all of the coolant hoses -- including the heater core hoses as well
replace the thermostat with 1 called FAILSAFE
( if it does fail , it will fail in the open position , it will over-cool the coolant rather than lettting the engine overheat , and preventing a costly engine rebuild
and yes you might as well replace the radiator
consider it added insurance for the next few years
the trans cooler inside the radiator does actually work as a cooler, say the coolant temp is 200 degrees and the trans temp is 250 degrees, the coolant will extract the heat from the trans fluid. My truck for instance has a trans cooler in the radiator and also has an external cooler from the factory. I would def replace the radiator and thermostat, so your not getting any coolant inside the trans. Coolant inside the trans can wipe out clutches and bands. When you put your radiator in, i would flush out the coolant passages and get the trans fluid out.
Same problem here, I came home, flushed the radiator, all coolant passages and then took it for a drive.
I picked up a RV size tranny cooler and I'm curious as the best way to block off the existing tranny lines that run into the bottom of the radiator. I will do the radiator replacement but i just picked up the truck and I'm honestly trying to get it running to get the inspection done - have to fix the header leak, and then also get the exhaust sorted out because it won't pass inspection with that, so get her running Right, off to the exhaust shop for tailpipes, and then I'll get back to a replacement radiator.
So, you guys are recommending to bypass the stock cooler that runs to the bottom of the radiator with the large aftermarket one I got.
If so, best way to close off the stock inlet and outlet tubes would be?
Did a Huge RV cooler, discovered previous own had one on but ran the line BACKWARDS - by that I mean the cooled it fine, but sent it from external oil cooler to the bottom of the radiator instead of the top after the oil cooler.
it flow's Great now, however, the seal is so shot it still leaks:(
Now to decided if it's M50D - found an explorer for 450 with everything... That includes an extra 4.0 with only 30k on it...
Another Auto, found the reman for 699 with 24k mile warrenty to my door for 750...