Very ruff idle at random
#1
Very ruff idle at random
The truck has done this 3 times now, once this morning when I started it and about 3 days ago when I stopped at a stop sign and a couple weeks before then I was in town and it did it so bad that it stalled. It will run very rough for 5-10 seconds, and went it did it this morning I looked at the oil pressure gauge and it showed no pressure, im not sure about the other gauges tho. Im not sure if I can believe the oil gauge tho, because I have read that it will either show normal or nothing and the motor was at very low idle.
The check engine light is always on so I dont know if its triggered a code, but I plan on getting it checked sometime in the next couple days when I can.
Any idea on what the cause of this could be?
The check engine light is always on so I dont know if its triggered a code, but I plan on getting it checked sometime in the next couple days when I can.
Any idea on what the cause of this could be?
Last edited by schatten789; 02-18-2008 at 08:06 PM.
#3
#7
i'm getting a egr code on my truck but all mine is doing is when i press the gas the runs really ruff until about second gear then stops. It sounds like have a crazy a$$ cam in my truck but it still runs so until something bigger happens i'll leave it alone. Its been going on for about 6 months now. sorry i'm not more help
#9
POST THE CODE # they found. Parts guy telling you "it's EGR" is not enough info.
Here's an easy way to diagnose the egr valve itself:
Find it, pull the vaccum line off of it and plug that vaccum line. Drive it for a few days. Ideally, you should do this when it is NOT stalling and running rough.
If it never does it again, it was the egr valve. Sometimes you can clean the carbon out of them (I've used black powder rifle bore cleaner and a .22 cal. bore brush). When you remove the valve, you'll see that shaft in the middle. Push on the bellows and the shaft will move. When you have it fully extended, plug the nipple with your finger and it SHOULD stay in that position. If it doesn't, replace it. If it DOES, clean it while it's in that position.
Carbon tends to block it from completely CLOSING. In that condition, you will have EGR flow at idle and it'll stall. I've seen them be carboned up so badly it wouldn't idle at all and be very hard to start (wasn't a Ford tho').
You really need to post the code #. If the code is EGR flow excessive, try cleaning the valve.
Oh, and soak that big nut in PB Blaster before you wrench it off. That big nut should be the first thing you loosen to get the valve off.
Don't forget to clean the carbon out of the ports on the intake while the valve is off. It can be so bad that you need to chip it away before hitting it with a solvent (carb cleaner).
Here's some helpful info: http://www.focushacks.com/index.php?modid=80
Here's an easy way to diagnose the egr valve itself:
Find it, pull the vaccum line off of it and plug that vaccum line. Drive it for a few days. Ideally, you should do this when it is NOT stalling and running rough.
If it never does it again, it was the egr valve. Sometimes you can clean the carbon out of them (I've used black powder rifle bore cleaner and a .22 cal. bore brush). When you remove the valve, you'll see that shaft in the middle. Push on the bellows and the shaft will move. When you have it fully extended, plug the nipple with your finger and it SHOULD stay in that position. If it doesn't, replace it. If it DOES, clean it while it's in that position.
Carbon tends to block it from completely CLOSING. In that condition, you will have EGR flow at idle and it'll stall. I've seen them be carboned up so badly it wouldn't idle at all and be very hard to start (wasn't a Ford tho').
You really need to post the code #. If the code is EGR flow excessive, try cleaning the valve.
Oh, and soak that big nut in PB Blaster before you wrench it off. That big nut should be the first thing you loosen to get the valve off.
Don't forget to clean the carbon out of the ports on the intake while the valve is off. It can be so bad that you need to chip it away before hitting it with a solvent (carb cleaner).
Here's some helpful info: http://www.focushacks.com/index.php?modid=80
#10
thanks for all the info, I just capped off the vac line going to the egr and ill see how it runs for a week or 2.
I revved the motor up and listened to the egr valve and I could hear a sound like there was crap getting thrown around in there so I think its either broken inside or has a bunch or crap in it.
I revved the motor up and listened to the egr valve and I could hear a sound like there was crap getting thrown around in there so I think its either broken inside or has a bunch or crap in it.
#13
Ok well I capped off the vac. line that opens the EGR valve and its been about a week, and I have not noticed any rough idling. I got the idea of capping off the vac. line by reading the info in the link Earl posted above, and it says that if that fixes the problem then it will be the DPFE sensor. The only thing is with the vac line hooked up to the EGR valve, if I rev the motor up to a steady rpm as if I was driving down the road I can hear a noise from it. The bast I can describe the noise is it sounds like it has small rocks being thrown around in it.
So, now im confused if its the DPFE sensor or the EGR valve or both.
Edit: Ohh and if anybody else wants to try what the link above says then expect a drop in gas millage. Mine seem to have dropped to almost have what I was getting.
So, now im confused if its the DPFE sensor or the EGR valve or both.
Edit: Ohh and if anybody else wants to try what the link above says then expect a drop in gas millage. Mine seem to have dropped to almost have what I was getting.
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