05 ranger hurst shifter
#1
#4
#8
The shift rail plugs are a good idea if your already right there mine weren't dry rotted yet so i just resealed them with some gray RTV but the stock shifter has a vent grove cut into it on the side that gets deleted with the hurst shifter so the most effective way is to cut a notch in the shifter plate to replicate the vent there is a thread here on it ill see if i can find it and link it not to hard to do but if you don't do it the transmission will be under pressure all the time and eventually the seals will start to leak.
#11
As noted by others, the transmissions are completely the same. Many manufacturers or retailers don't update their compatibility charts year to year. The only Hurst kit for a Ranger WILL fit yours as the transmission never changed.
This is an occasion where the Ranger community is FAR better than the manufacturer community.
YES YES YES
My pic! lol.
Take a 4.5" angle grinder with a cut-off wheel and make a groove in the HURST base plate. Also, take a flap-wheel (80 grit or 40 grit) and scuff it. This helps the silicone adhere to it. Seal the base plate to the Hurst billet pivot housing with silicone. Be sure the groove is free of silicone so it'll be able to do it's job. Toss the stock HURST rubber boot....it's junk. I came up with this mod back in 2008 or 2009 or so and have ran it for nearly 5 years and 50k without ANY automatic transmission fluid seeping or leaking. It's a surefire way to cure the Hurst transmission breathing issue.
Note: you DO NOT have to remove transmission to install Hurst. Pics were taken during a trans swap and you can see the best Hurst vent fix at the time in my pictures.....drilled and tapped shift rail cover with a tube up to the engine bay. I came up with the slice of the base plate idea during the trans swap and drill-and-tapping installation. It has always been plugged because the slice idea worked so well.
Note 2: If you're not satisfied with your shift ball positioning, you can EASILY make your own extension. The holes are 7/8" on-center.
This is an occasion where the Ranger community is FAR better than the manufacturer community.
Take a 4.5" angle grinder with a cut-off wheel and make a groove in the HURST base plate. Also, take a flap-wheel (80 grit or 40 grit) and scuff it. This helps the silicone adhere to it. Seal the base plate to the Hurst billet pivot housing with silicone. Be sure the groove is free of silicone so it'll be able to do it's job. Toss the stock HURST rubber boot....it's junk. I came up with this mod back in 2008 or 2009 or so and have ran it for nearly 5 years and 50k without ANY automatic transmission fluid seeping or leaking. It's a surefire way to cure the Hurst transmission breathing issue.
Note: you DO NOT have to remove transmission to install Hurst. Pics were taken during a trans swap and you can see the best Hurst vent fix at the time in my pictures.....drilled and tapped shift rail cover with a tube up to the engine bay. I came up with the slice of the base plate idea during the trans swap and drill-and-tapping installation. It has always been plugged because the slice idea worked so well.
Note 2: If you're not satisfied with your shift ball positioning, you can EASILY make your own extension. The holes are 7/8" on-center.
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