Welcome to the forum.
CID is cylinder identification
On a '94 4.0l this is done using the Crank Position(CKP) sensor and the EDIS-6 module.
CKP sensor reads a tone wheel behind the main crank pulley
Sensor is at 10:00-11:00 on the front of the engine, close to the tone wheel
Tone wheel looks like a gear, 36 teeth minus 1 tooth, one tooth every 10degs then a missing tooth that IDs cylinder #1 at TDC.
The CKP sensor sends a pulse each time a tooth passes by, then a gap when #1 TDC passes by, this signal goes to the EDIS-6 module
EDIS-6 module runs the spark and is hooked to the coil pack
My '94 4.0l has EDIS module on the front side of rad support drivers side, you can see it looking up under the bumper.
EDIS module sends the CKP signal to the computer, computer uses that signal to time the fuel injectors, computer also sends EDIS module spark advance info from driver input, like Throttle position(TPS)
Good read here on Fords EDIS: Ford EDIS technical information
I would first check the tone wheel and CKP sensor for mud or ??
And make sure CKP is not loose.
CKP wires run up by the water pump, thermostat and into the main harness under upper intake manifold.
I would also test your Throttle position sensor(TPS)
It is just a variable resistor like a light dimmer or volume control
It gets 5volts from computer on upper wire
Lower wire is a Ground
Center wire sends .7volts to 4.8volts back to the computer to tell it throttle plate position.
.69 to .99v, under 1 volt, on center wire when throttle is closed is spec
Above 4.5volts when throttle is wide open(WOT)
Because this is a moving part it can get worn out, dead spots or shorts
Set volt meter to DC volts
Use a sewing pin to pierce the center wire
Turn on the key
Hook meter to a good ground and to the sewing pin
You should see .69-.99v
Now open throttle slowly and watch voltage increase
you are looking for sudden changes, dropping or jumping up of the voltage, replace TPS if you see this
At WOT you should see above 4.5v
And slowly close throttle watching voltage.
And on a 4.0l ALWAYS clean the MAF sensor anytime there is a problem.
After engine is warmed up and idling, unplug the wires on the IAC(idle air control) Valve
It will close and idle should drop down to 500rpm or engine may even stall, either is good, it means no vacuum leaks.
If idle stays above 700 then there is a leak