jump start pack
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Outside of another car battery there are no "jump start" options for an engine.
Even the larger electric "rechargers" need some time to build up enough Amps in the old battery so it can output 150+ Amps for starter motor.
There are portable devices that can recharge a drained battery in a few minutes, these are often call "jump start packs".
They do work in some situations.
2003 Ranger will have battery saver relay, shuts off power to lights after 20-30minutes, so dead battery after leaving lights(or something else on) on overnight shouldn't happen.
Only reason for dead battery would be alternator failure or battery failure, which should have warning signs repeated for many days before battery actually won't start engine any longer.
Signs are slow cranking and dimming head lights at idle.
But to answer the question, any of the portable "rechargers" should give a weak battery enough juice to crank the engine a few times, you hook it up and then wait for some of its voltage to pass to the car battery, 5-10min., then try to start engine.
Even the larger electric "rechargers" need some time to build up enough Amps in the old battery so it can output 150+ Amps for starter motor.
There are portable devices that can recharge a drained battery in a few minutes, these are often call "jump start packs".
They do work in some situations.
2003 Ranger will have battery saver relay, shuts off power to lights after 20-30minutes, so dead battery after leaving lights(or something else on) on overnight shouldn't happen.
Only reason for dead battery would be alternator failure or battery failure, which should have warning signs repeated for many days before battery actually won't start engine any longer.
Signs are slow cranking and dimming head lights at idle.
But to answer the question, any of the portable "rechargers" should give a weak battery enough juice to crank the engine a few times, you hook it up and then wait for some of its voltage to pass to the car battery, 5-10min., then try to start engine.
Last edited by RonD; 05-06-2016 at 09:40 AM.
#3
battery pack>>>>>shut off relay
Thanks I'll just get the best one I can afford.
Regarding the shut-off relay you mentioned, either my Ranger doesn't have it or its gone bad, because my lights don't turn off in 20 minutes or 2 hours.
Interestingly, I am having issues with the #33 EC fuse blowing as soon as I turn the light switch on to park/running lights. This results in my dash lights, running lights an fog lights not working. Supposedly, I'm told that my low beams should work, (they do) but not the high beams (but they do work).
I trouble-shot as many possibilities ways that I can think of with no success, only lots of blown fuses.
Is it possible this relay could be th culprit or part of the problem?
Where is this relay located?
Regarding the shut-off relay you mentioned, either my Ranger doesn't have it or its gone bad, because my lights don't turn off in 20 minutes or 2 hours.
Interestingly, I am having issues with the #33 EC fuse blowing as soon as I turn the light switch on to park/running lights. This results in my dash lights, running lights an fog lights not working. Supposedly, I'm told that my low beams should work, (they do) but not the high beams (but they do work).
I trouble-shot as many possibilities ways that I can think of with no success, only lots of blown fuses.
Is it possible this relay could be th culprit or part of the problem?
Where is this relay located?
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Engine fuse box(BJB) #33 is the Parking light power for the light switch, it also feeds power to Security module, but if that was the issue fuse would just blow when inserted.
Since it blows only when Main light switch is used then the short is in that leg of the circuit.
Headlights use Fuse #24 BJB
But what might be confusing is that in the Cab fuse box(CJB), Fuse #33 powers high beams.
So there are TWO #33 fuses, engine bay and Cab.
here are a few diagrams that might help you track down the short.
I would pull out/disconnect the light switch then use an OHM meter on the on the Brown wire, that's the wire that feeds power to the Parking light circuits.
0 OHMs is a short
Since these are light bulbs for the most part they will show low OHM numbers, but not 0 OHMs.
There are also a couple of relays in the BJB worth pulling out to see if their circuit is the problem.
You can also leave light switch in place if you are sure it isn't the problem, it could be a bad switch.
Pull out fuse #33 BJB, use volt meter to determine which contact is 12volts, the power side.
That makes the other contact the one that goes to Light Switch.
Use ohm meter on that contact and to a Ground, should show N/C(no connection) or very high OHM number.
Turn light switch on to Park
Should now show 0 OHMs, short.
Then start unplugging things on that circuit to find the short.
Since it blows only when Main light switch is used then the short is in that leg of the circuit.
Headlights use Fuse #24 BJB
But what might be confusing is that in the Cab fuse box(CJB), Fuse #33 powers high beams.
So there are TWO #33 fuses, engine bay and Cab.
here are a few diagrams that might help you track down the short.
I would pull out/disconnect the light switch then use an OHM meter on the on the Brown wire, that's the wire that feeds power to the Parking light circuits.
0 OHMs is a short
Since these are light bulbs for the most part they will show low OHM numbers, but not 0 OHMs.
There are also a couple of relays in the BJB worth pulling out to see if their circuit is the problem.
You can also leave light switch in place if you are sure it isn't the problem, it could be a bad switch.
Pull out fuse #33 BJB, use volt meter to determine which contact is 12volts, the power side.
That makes the other contact the one that goes to Light Switch.
Use ohm meter on that contact and to a Ground, should show N/C(no connection) or very high OHM number.
Turn light switch on to Park
Should now show 0 OHMs, short.
Then start unplugging things on that circuit to find the short.
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