wow.. where to start.. to make things simple.. all i was doing was replacing oil seals on engine from leaks

Had a rear main oil leak --> my mechanic and i took the engine out --> replaced all the seals --> replaced timing chain (it was lose) --> did a valve job and resurfaced heads (no cracks) --> THIS LED TO ISSUE OF NO POWER WHEN ACCELERATING UNTIL REACHING ABOUT 55 MPH, then it runs smooth..

To fix this new problem replaced one fuel injector that was out --> fuel injection clean --> changed fuel filter --> replaced TPS.. Stll no change

took it to LAMBS and automotive shop just for a diagnositc and they couldn't figure it out so they sent me to FORD..

FORD told me that it was the O2 sensors and MAF --> replaced both o2 sensors and MAF --> also replaced air filter..

Check Engine light is still on, from time to time at a stop light in drive (auto transmission) and it wants to die and has once --> acceleration comes in and out some times it feels great other times feels horrible --> gas mileage is ****...

Keep in mind before we replaced the seals (by taken the engine out) this wasn't a problem. Ford wants to keep charging, my mechanic doesnt knwo what it is... and i'm too far into the hole to stop...

it's 1993 v6 4.0 ford ranger and it has been in my family since 11k miles it only has 108k right now... any suggestions please REPLY...

IF YOU READ THIS WHOLE POST... THANK YOU... for taking some of time to come into my world...

 

bad ground i had that problem when i plug my 2 o2 sencers in wrong i pluged bank 1 in bank 2 and bank 2 in bank 1 try to swap them

 

probably a jammed a pressure relief valve in the gas tank

too much fuel being injected

find out what the error code is

more than likely it is a over rich condition

 

This told all.
You are a tooth off on the timing chain.

 

what do you mean OTRtech ? the timing change was not tight at all... i mean i know in general you want to leave that alone but if it's lose i've had few shops tell me it's ok to change it..

 

cheese_man... that sounds like that's exactly what's happening... which is why changing the MAF and the O2 Made sense.... when i took it to ford the only codes were for O2 and MAF and it was doing the same thing.. i changed them still same thing...Geez, when is this nightmare going to stop... i've working on this for over two months.. .and this is my main source of transportation...

 

hey john... at the Auto part store i was told by Autozone and O'reiley that its the same sensor for both... sooo i dont think you can put them in wrong... what do you mean by bad ground exactly ?

 

Part of me wants to agree with this. Unless you're 110% sure you put the new one on exactly correct, which was probably difficult to tell with the old one being loose, then i think thats where your problem lies.

 

Yep. Timing chain one tooth off. Did it to my race car and it ran, but not very well. Then I put it forward one tooth too many and it ran worse, untill high rpm when it screamed. Then ran it back to where it should be and it ran well everywhere. I would put my money on your mechanic messing that part up.

 

another thing i would recommend , is to do a fuel injector power flush

a lot issues can be resolved by flushing injectors
over time the heat from the engine can cause small droplets of fuel stuck to the injectors can carbonize

causing a slightly / major stuck open fuel injector/s

having your injectors power flushed regularly can prevent a-lot of over rich fuel issues

as well as the EGR valve and EGR feed tube can become crusted up with carbon

 

sounds good thank you guys for responding... i'm a go with the free option first and see about the timing chain... is there anyway of knowing when it's right ? i did do the a fuel injector flush clean or whatever from Jiffy lube.. lol.. i know but i was running kind of low on $$$... i'll give a shot and put up an update... i won't be able to mess with it until this weekend... but thanks.. if anyone else has any idea's please POST... thanks

 

I would check for a loose ground strap or missing ground first. They can make you feel like you have all kinds of gremlins. There should be one at the rear on one of the heads going to the firewall and possibly one on the block.

As for the timing, you should have the key way on the crankshaft sprocket directly up(12 oclock) and the marker on the camshaft sprocket pointing directly towards the crank shaft(6 oclock). Here's an image:




If you check all the simple stuff like vacuum leaks and missing/lose grounds, i would definitely look into making sure the timing is right. If you did not correct the orientation of the sprockets(compensate for the lose timing chain) by lining up the marks before putting the new sprockets and chain on, you're probably a pinch off. You don't have to remove the engine to do it, just pull the water pump and timing cover off.

Let me know if i can help anymore. Good luck.

 

I vote for the timing chain...

 

i really appreciate that D-Rock... I didn't personally put the timing chain in myself or better yet since i ddint' know how to set it my Mechanic did it... he said he knew how... so he just did it.. but now with your response i'll be able to check it and see what i find... I dont think he messed that up... but hey you never know right ? thanks a bunch.. cross my fingers...lol

 

Would the issue with the timing chain affect the really low idling as well ? or is that separate?

 

yes it will affect the idle

 

Yes the timing chain effects everything. It keeps the valvetrain in time with the crankshaft and if it's off, it'll effect how the engine idles, accelerates, etc.

 

Another timing issue which is sometimes ignored is the camshaft position sensor. It turns the injectors off and on at the correct time and for the correct duration. It affects your idle, acceleration, power and fuel mileage. This will gibe you one more part to check, but it's probably just maladjusted, not defective. Good Luck

 

put a timing light on it and make sure the ditributor is in time. i had the same problem with my old chevy and thats what it was.