OK, Here goes it. I have a 94 Ranger Splash, 4.0 OHV, automatic trans. My wife drove it to work and on here way home it died. It doesn't have any spark. I've worked on Hot Rods all my life, so I checked a few things out. but I'm not really up to par on these Computer, Fuel Injected engines. About 3 months before it died. I had it in a Local garage, who charged me $3,000.00 to Fix it. They replace the Intake gaskets, and went through and replace most of the sensors trying to figure out what was wrong with it. They finally found the computer was going bad. so they replaced it. It ran fine for 3 months, then died and hasn't started since. the fuel pump is coming on when you turn the key, and it cranks over, but I don't think it has fire to the plugs. I need some help figuring this one out please. Thanks in advance

 

I wouldn't go back to that repair shop, Do It Yourselfers might swap out sensors to "figure it out" but Pro's wouldn't/shouldn't, they are too easy to test.

Computer control doesn't change how an engine works, it makes it more reliable but the basics are still the basics, just rely on your past experience.

Spray some gas or starting fluid into the intake, crank it and see if engine starts,
If it fires up then dies the fuel system is the issue.
If it doesn't fire up then spark is the issue.

'94 4.0l uses an EDIS-6 module to run the spark, on my '94 the EDIS module is on the Front Side of the rad support, by the battery, have to get under truck and look up to see it, but they hardly ever fail except in front end collisions :)

The EDIS module gets a #1 TDC pulse signal from the CKP(crank position) sensor, located near the crank pulley, it "reads" a tone wheel, looks like a gear, on the back side of the pulley.
So this works like a distributor and points but without the extra moving parts(pulley was already a moving part, lol)

EDIS module hooks up to the Coil Pack, 3 coils in one package, each coil sparks 2 spark plugs at the same time, Ford calls this a Waste Spark system because one spark happens in a cylinder on the exhaust stroke so it is "wasted".
These coils work the same as all automotive coils, you power primary up with 12volts, then cut the Ground to get the secondary to spark.
So easy to test each of the 3 coils that way or use OHM meter, they test the same as single coils.

So that is the spark system.
When key is turned on the Coil Pack and EDIS module get 12volts from the EEC Relay, so does fuel pump relay so if thats working then EEC relay is not the issue.
Test that coils is getting 12v, there are 4 wires at coil connector, 3 are "grounds" from EDIS module, the 4th is the 12volts

When you crank the engine the CKP sensor sends a pulse to EDIS module which then grounds and ungrounds each coil to spark them in time with #1 TDC and firing order on coil pack.

EDIS module does pass on the #1 TDC timing to computer so it can time the fuel injectors, and the computer does send back advance and retard spark timing based on drivers foot on the gas pedal(TPS) and engine load, but EDIS module doesn't "need" the computer, to spark engine at the correct time.
If there is no CKP sensor pulse then there would be no spark or fuel injection.
You can try this, pull out an easy to get at spark plug.
Clean it so it is dry
Put it back in the engine
Crank engine, don't touch gas pedal
Pull out spark plug, if it is wet with fuel then CKP sensor is working

Good read here on Ford EDIS: Ford EDIS technical information

It may "seem" complicated but so were distributors, points and coil until you learned about them.

 

Thanks for the Reply, RonD. I have not gone back to that shop. I kind of thought the same thing you said about it. I've already changed the EEC Relay, so that should be working properly. I've cleaned the small ground connections that come from the relay/fuse panel under the hood. There were also a ground connection on the core support, that come from the battery, and the EDIS. I cleaned those too. These are things one of my friends told me to check. Todays Check list has grown, since I now know more. Thanks RonD

 

'94 4.0l CKP testing info here: | Repair Guides | Electronic Engine Controls | Crankshaft Position (ckp) Sensor | AutoZone.com

You can use sewing pins to pierce the 2 wires to read voltage while crank is turning, be careful, you can loosen(and move out of the way) the fan belt for testing

 

Cool. Thanks again, Ron. I will check out that information. I worked on it some yesterday. It Now has fire to the plugs. it still didn't start, the Battery gave up. I tried jumping it. but the battery was strong enough. I have my battery on Charge, and will try again later this evening when i get home. I think it is going to start, it did hit on a couple of cylinders, before the battery gave up. I'll keep trying LOL!! I might have to get a new battery, though. I do have fuel & fire now, so I'm thinking it should start, & run.

 

Yes, one Achilles heel for fully electronic systems is a minimum voltage requirement.

When using the starter motor you get about a 2 volt drop in battery voltage, so 12.5v down to 10.5v while cranking engine, that is normal and engine will start.
If battery has low voltage and you get down to 9v while cranking electrics start to become intermittent.

The old carb(with fuel reserve in float bowl), mechanical fuel pump, and distributor with points didn't have that issue.

 

Yes, those were the good ole days LOL!! 1 vacuum line, 1 V-belt, and a distributor. I really miss my old mustangs!! Ron have you ever hot rodded 1 of these 4.0's ? I'm thinking about, once I get it running good again, Changing the rear gear from a 3.55, to a 4.10 posi, and maybe a Jet PCM Module. What's your thoughts on that.

 

About the only upgrade available for 4.0l is a supercharger.
But it would cost about $1,500 even scavenging used parts

IF(big if) I wanted to upgrade power in a 2WD Ranger I would go with a 5.0l V8 swap, with trans and rear axle, 5.0l also has loads of upgrades you can do over time.

4.0l is 160hp
5.0l is 220hp

The issue with Boost, turbo or super chargers, is that you really need to build the bottom end of the engine to handle the higher compression/power.
And the temptation to run "just a little more boost" is always there, lol, and the ONLY way you can find when it was "too much" boost is when something breaks, best case is new crank, rods and pistons, worst case is all that and new block as well.

 

I've been thinking about a 347, for a long time. I have some experiences, with Turbo's, I had a 85 Turbo Coupe T Bird. I can't say they were all bad!! LOL. I Just wanted a little more so it would keep up with my 01 Ranger 4.0 SOCH. I tried to start it again this evening. The Battery is a Goner. It wouldn't turn it over fast enough or Long enough. I even had my small charger with 60 Boost on it. It was still dragging. Thanks for your help.

 

Chipmunks have chewed holes in the fuel line. Grrrrr!! anyhow, I'm having a Hard time finding Replacement Lines, and or a Repair kit. The Line that has the hole in it, in this picture; is a 3/16th line, with a 3/8ths Quick Connect. does anyone have a part # for this repair part? I've been to my local Parts house, and they couldn't find anything. I also spent about an hour at Advanced Auto Parts, that was a waste of an hour.



Just another picture of the top of the fuel tank for reference.

 

This is what I'm working on a 1994 Ranger Splash 4.0L auto, 3.08 rear. Its a really nice truck Cleans up really good Runs great when I can keep it running. I've had this truck for 2009, and I probably haven't 5,000 miles on it. It has sat mist of the time I've had it. I've spent about $ 3,500.00 on it trying to get it going. I'm getting tired of throwing money at it.