i have a 1994 ranger with a 4.0 in it im looking to get a little bit better mpg and hp out of it and i have no money. i keep hearing "air box mod" what exactly did u do to ur air box and did it help at all and what are some tips to get better mpg thanks alot guys

 

http://www.freewebs.com/arizonarider...rairboxmod.htm

 

hey thanks i know theres more than that out that i dont really want to use duck tape if i dont have too. not saying anything against it. but does that mod really help at all ?

 

I'm flattered people are using my web site. The duct tape was more of a mock up than anything. I've since fiber glassed it to the air box bottom and fabricated an intake. http://www.freewebs.com/arizonarider...madeintake.htm
so no more duct tape.

I noticed a difference with roll on power like passing or climbing the Arizona mountain grades in 5th gear. I get a pretty constant 23 mpg. I noticed more "pull" after 3000 rpm and that was before the tuner. The intake and air box seem to work well with my other mods.
You can hear it at WOT.

Edit: I updated my site to remove the duct tape part. That hasn't been there for a while so thanks for giving me this reminder.

 

I don't blame you.

 

hey thanks man i like it but i still am not sure anyone else have anything?

 

I've imporved my milage by a solid 4-5mpg now. But it's taken money to get here. Money that won't be realized for at least 100k miles. But.. I got a pretty peppy 4.0L these days.

IMO there are three top choices that improves milage.
1) Driving style. Driving style. Driving style! If your touching the brake pedal your wasting gas.. period.
2) A x-cal2 with the timing maxed.
3) Over inflate the tires by 3-4 psi

btw, My 06 FX4 w/4.10s and auto tranny is averaging about 21mpg in 50/50 driving.

Rich

 

are there any other airbox mods????

 

There's only so much you can do.

 

yeah thats what i figured. has anyone tried the addapter plate thats on ebay its a piece of alum that goes b4 ur maf and you can bolt on a 3 inch cone filter and get ride of ur box and everything. anyone trie that b4 i spend the 25 bucks for one.

 

With the cone filter your going to be pulling in hot air, the stock system is a cold air type. IMHO a K&N drop in filter is the best value.

 

+1 on the stock replacement k&n
****

 

once ur moving ur not pulling in cold air once u get over 20 mph its all cold sry to break it to u

 

At 246,000 miles I wouldn't change a thing, seems whatever is going on is working.

 

yeah i need to ajust the timeing i have the octane code the engine light comes on everyone once and a while i think i will run alot better once i get that fixed just need to ajust the timeing but i want an intake and im guna put custom daul exhaust on it.

 

bump. sorry to bring up a bit of an old thread but I was about to attemp the air box mod on my '96 3.0 v6 ext cab when i noticed that i have a different filter and filter housing than the ones shown here. i kno that my dad replaced the filter a couple months ago with a conical one, but i dont remember him mentioning replacing the filter housing. the housing does look stock though. what i have is a housing that is the same shape as the filter... conical. the air intake goes from the intake manifold, to the intake pipe/hose, to the filter. the half of the filter that is closest to the engine is how it is mounted and the other half has a bucket shaped, twist on cover over it.
it looks sorta like this if i were to take the housing and cover off
http://www.geocities.com/mikey9t6/car_uvwxyz_vris5.gif
- i dont know wat car that was from.....

it looks a lot like this except mine is on the passenger side.
http://www.sportruck.com/howto/f150airaid/2.jpg


my question: is this normal for a 3.0 v6? and how would i attempt to get more air into this engine?

could i just take off the bucket shaped cover that covers the outter half of the filter, or will this let water in. i live near cleveland and it is snowing/ raining/ s****y weather right now and i dont want hydrolock....

unless someone tells me not to, ill probably take the filter cover off tonight

thanks for any help given. :)


EDIT:
this is exactly what mine looks like except on passenger side
http://www.fordf150.net/howto/images/silencer5.jpg

 

Check out therangerstation.com and see if there's anything in the air filter section that might help you. My 3.0 had the box intake and I converted it to an open conical filter and never had any problems with it.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech.../airintake.htm <----That's exactly what I did to mine.

 

A conical shape is better in that it keeps airflow laminar. That means the intake tube & TB are seeing a smooth air stream.

Not sure about your particular setup.. but *generally* conical filters have more surface area as well. That means a decrease in Delta P accross it. That in turn means longer life of the filter (or cleaning intervals) and a *slight* gain in TQ. (theoretically less power is consumed in moving the air)

I've been making my own box lately. Been doing a lot of datalogging as well. So far it's looking like I gain about 10ft lbs of TQ down low and nothing in the mid range to top end.

I'm currently making a smart ram air ductwork and will report when I have solid results.

Here is my in process box: (it's clear during the prototype phase so I can see water and debris infiltration) LINK

 

thanks. i ended up just taking the cover for the filter off, putting a homemade plastic water guard above it, and testing to make sure water from the hood gap wouldnt get on it. ive been using this for about a week or 2, and dont know anything about power gains or MPG, but it def sounds sweeter at WOT. btw, i have a FRAM filter w/ stock intake.

 

At the time I did my setup, I was working at home depot and we had just finished taking down a leaf blower display. Took a 2ft plastic elbow from the parts and used it as my air intake hose. Wished I would have took pics of it before I got rid of it. It fit perfectly on the intake manifold.