whos got a step by step? TB cleaning
#1
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#4
common sense tells us that a dirty car part doesn't do as good of a job or operate as efficiently as a clean car part...right? id say cleaning my throttle body and IAC REALLY helped smooth out my idle and low rpm range...just sayin idk
#6
Here are a couple of direct quotes from a Ford factory shop manual:
CAUTION: Throttle body bore and plate area have a special coating and cannot be cleaned or possible damage to the throttle body may occur.
A sealant is applied to the throttle plate and bore area to reduce closed plate-to-bore airflow. The sealant should not be removed or cleaned.
Why the coating? 2 reasons:
If the plate is closed down too close to the bore, it may stick in the bore due to wear and/or temperature changes.
Going the other way, the idle plate position could be cranked open slightly farther away from the bore and the IAC duty cycle tuned to match the perimeter flow. This is really limited though because of the very low airflow at idle. As the miles build, a small amount of deposit build up can eliminate the flow around the perimeter of the plate and make the idle speed totally dependent on the IAC duty cycle. This has the potential for idle dips and stalling.
Applying the coating seal and punching the hole(s) in the plate avoids both problems because it keeps the base flow (without IAC) nearly unchanged over the life of the part.
I have seen several posts where owners have spent a bunch of time removing this coating that the factory put there for a very good reason. If it were possible to gently clean the deposits without disturbing the coating, then I suppose that it might not hurt anything. On the other hand it doesn't help anything, so why bother? Many chemicals like carb cleaner or "throttle body cleaner" are often strong enough to loosen or dissolve the coating.
#7
I did mine back when I first joined. I had wondering idle so I did the IACV and I did the TB while I had it apart.
I used Simple green, paper towels, a tooth brush, electronics cleaner, and 2000 grit sand paper. I didn't mess with the seal around the plate but I did sand paper the outward face of the plate that the air goes in to.
I used Simple green, paper towels, a tooth brush, electronics cleaner, and 2000 grit sand paper. I didn't mess with the seal around the plate but I did sand paper the outward face of the plate that the air goes in to.
#8
EDIT:
HOW TO:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/showth...+throttle+body
GOOD EXTRA INFO:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/showth...le+body&page=2
And respect the rwenzing, he could kill your Ranger just by looking at it
HOW TO:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/showth...+throttle+body
GOOD EXTRA INFO:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/showth...le+body&page=2
And respect the rwenzing, he could kill your Ranger just by looking at it
Last edited by KLC; 04-15-2011 at 10:13 AM.
#9
Probably was not the best possible thing to say. Last time I checked, your FX4 Level II doesnt have a supercharged 5.0,, and all the high end electronics from a Mountaineer into alsong with a billion other things that his Ranger has that the average person will never be able to do.
Rwenzing is a highly respected individual that knows his ****
Rwenzing is a highly respected individual that knows his ****
Last edited by KLC; 04-15-2011 at 10:13 AM.
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NOT TO BE A DICK!!!! but just to say ittttt....my can of CRC air intake cleaner (not MAF, or Carb cleaner!) says on the back that it is SAFE FOR 100% OF COATINGS ON THROTTLE BODIES as it is only a pressurized form of alcohol that dissolves quickly unlike pressurized water.
BUTTT i do understand the principle behind the coating and yes; carb cleaner will quickly remove this important layer
BUTTT i do understand the principle behind the coating and yes; carb cleaner will quickly remove this important layer
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