Does a throttle body spacer work?
#1
Does a throttle body spacer work?
I have been looking on this site and others for a while now and i cant find anything about it. Some say yes, some say no. I wonder if the people that said it works might have a placebo affect. I am not looking into power but more into the fuel economy. I understand how it would work in theory but i am not sure how it would work in real time. I have taken out the silencer on my intake box and did notice a bit more top end and a bit better throttle response but nothing too awesome. I just think it would be nice to have.. if it works.
Thanks, abel
Thanks, abel
#2
#4
I've been in and around the racing industry for 19 years. I attend the Performance Racing Industry convention quite often. That aside, nobody I know that builds cars uses them because they've been proven not to work.That concept is what is used on carbed setups. Those increase the plenum size. The 3/8" increase or the fins/twist that they claim to swirl the air doesn't do anything just like the Tornadoes and all they're knock offs. If these things actually worked you'd see them on the race/high end cars out there.
#10
#12
#14
What happened? Thats what I am afraid of one of these days, who knows though.
#15
I dont have one for psn. But i was hauling my old international loader for about 45 miles and at first it threw a code, then the shifting got eradict and it would jump in and out of over drive. Just thought it was the transmission module going out but as i was scanning threw my gauges with the dash daq i noticed i couldnt maintain rail pressure. So i screwed up my fuel pump and everything after that. So the shifting was due to i was making different power and different times. less power meant more downshifting. But im going to get new pistons, injectors, fuel rails, hpfp, maybe replace the airdog just to be safe, port the heads even more, and see what i can do to improve the bottom end of the block.
#17
I dont have one for psn. But i was hauling my old international loader for about 45 miles and at first it threw a code, then the shifting got eradict and it would jump in and out of over drive. Just thought it was the transmission module going out but as i was scanning threw my gauges with the dash daq i noticed i couldnt maintain rail pressure. So i screwed up my fuel pump and everything after that. So the shifting was due to i was making different power and different times. less power meant more downshifting. But im going to get new pistons, injectors, fuel rails, hpfp, maybe replace the airdog just to be safe, port the heads even more, and see what i can do to improve the bottom end of the block.
#18
#19
Yeah luckily i was only like 50 miles away from home or 10 miles from my other ranch (so close!). And i think i know what caused all the mishap. I left my truck on the 350 tune. Yeah im an idiot but the day before i was at the track. So pretty much the 350 tune is risky with nothing behind.. now add a 36 foot flat bed goose neck and a 16000 pound loader and just like that you got total destruction under the hood.
#20
#21
lol yeah the 250 and 350 make the world of difference. The 350 is very touchy and has amazing top end. The 250 is an amazing daily driver because its not very touchy and has good power throughout out the power band. Its a lot easier on everything too. Not too much smoke either. The 350 is like a damn train. I dont know why i didnt check when i saw a trail of smoke behind me.
#23
yeah. I am getting it rebuilt in my shop right now and one of my technicians showed me the block and we were both surprised as too you could still see the cross hatches on the cylinder walls even after 78000 miles, 10k miles were stock the rest as tuned. Big props to international and spartan tuning. I am just replacing pistons to avoid a problem in the long run.
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02-06-2006 12:16 PM