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4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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Old 02-08-2012
notsob2012's Avatar
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I am: ford ranger
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: indpls,in
Vehicle: 94 ford ranger splash 4x4
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I don't have slicks or stock tires lol any point in doing a one wheel wonder with my Mud tires? I'm not really worried about my tire life, Ill need new ones soon and I feel like I'm getting 2 answers with the 4x4, im not reaching up and disengaging it while full throttle(don't feel comfortable hitting a wall)
Should I leave it in 2wd or 4x4?
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Old 02-08-2012
rolsmojave3's Avatar
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I am: Cole Roelli
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Wisconsin
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I'd get into the lane, put it in 4wd, run the track, take it out of 4wd while slowing down.
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Old 02-08-2012
I am: Nick Conforti
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Cocoa, FL
Vehicle: 1987 Ford Ranger 5.0 4x4
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I ran 15's all day with a stock 302 on 31's. Don't expect much. Haha

With the gears underneath now, and my 30", If I hook up, I'd expect to see a low 14. I just don't have $20 to blow to make a few passes in a lifted truck on m/t's...

Yeah, go around the waterbox, no one likes pulling up to a wet line. That's what the honda kids do, they do their one tire of fire then leave a trail of water all the way to the tree.
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Old 02-21-2012
I am: Chris S.
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: B-burg
Vehicle: 2011Ford Ranger
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Originally Posted by IN2 FX4 View Post
Unless your engine is tuned for 93 octane, it will do nothing for you except possibly slow you a little unless your engine is very carboned up. 89 octane won't hurt and may help a little if your engine is carboned up a little.
+1 It's a popular myth that higher octane fuel automatically equates to more power. Octane rating is the fuel's resistance to preignition ONLY. Use the fuel your engine is tuned for. That would be the lowest rating that does not result in knocking.

Originally Posted by Gruss View Post
Leave when you see the last yellow bulb. If you wait for the green, you will be sitting at the line by yourself.
+1, again. The is something called "roll out time". That is the time it takes for the suspension to load, the car to start forward, and clear the beam. If you have good reflexes, this roll out time just about equals the time between the last yellow light and the green.

As has been said... Go around the water box. Treaded tires will hold the water, even after a burnout, and you'll just wet down the starting line. That will make you unpopular with the drivers behind you. Along those same lines, do not run the A/C, even when you are in the staging lanes. It's not about robbing power from your motor (which it does), but about dropping water out of your condensation drain. Wetting down the track will, again, make you very unpopular.

You do not need to do a burnout. Heating up your street tires will not accomplish anything. However, after clearing the water box, you may want to do a little brake stand. A quick spin of the tires can help sling off any loose rubber or crud that you picked up on your way to the line.

If this is an open track or test-and-tune event, you may find yourself paired up with some 1000+ HP monster. Use your judgement. You may want to hang back a couple seconds after the green, and just go for an ET number. If the John Force wannabe in the next lane looses it down the track, you might be glad you hung back.

After crossing the line, it still ain't over. The car in the lane on the exit road side generally has the right of way. But the car ahead may cross over through that lane, so be ready. If I'm on the exit road side, and behind, I'll slide in behind the other car to signal they can cross over.

Watch your speed on the return road. Some tracks monitor it, and will ask you to leave if you drive too fast.

Have fun, and be careful. It's habit-forming.
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