True dual idea
#1
12-15-2006
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True dual idea
I'm fascinated with the idea of a true dual exhaust for my Ranger and the engineering behind the x-pipe, but I'm not sure if it's logical or worth it. My idea is to get a 2.5" in/out x-pipe with 2 glass pack mufflers; not sure if I'll dump, exit before the rear tire or go straight back, I guess it depends how it will fit and how much work I will commit to. High flow cats will probably be included. Let me know if this makes any sense or if I'd be wasting my time. 
#3
12-15-2006
I think 2.5" pipes on each side is WAY too big. You're going to get very low exhaust velocities, and probably reversion that will actually negatively affect scavenging.
I think 2" is probably right for each side, and maybe 2.25" TOPS. But that's just a guess. If you go too big on a dual system (or really ANY system) you will regret it. You're not running a diesel here, lol...
I think 2" is probably right for each side, and maybe 2.25" TOPS. But that's just a guess. If you go too big on a dual system (or really ANY system) you will regret it. You're not running a diesel here, lol...
#5
12-15-2006
#6
12-15-2006
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Do it - but dont use glasspacks, they are junk.
I wish i would of did this when i got my exhaust done the 1st time...
- 2" or 2.25" piping
- JBA headers
- 2 Magnaflow Cats
- H-pipe
- 2 Borla SI/SO mufflers.
- Tailpipes exiting at 45* angle
You would have to get a tuner for sure as you would probably get a code for ditching the stock cats.
I wish i would of did this when i got my exhaust done the 1st time...
- 2" or 2.25" piping
- JBA headers
- 2 Magnaflow Cats
- H-pipe
- 2 Borla SI/SO mufflers.
- Tailpipes exiting at 45* angle
You would have to get a tuner for sure as you would probably get a code for ditching the stock cats.
#7
12-15-2006
Originally Posted by Sad_Savant
personally i'd go 2.25 off the manifold to the x-pipe and then drop to 2" pipe past that...personally
this helps in creating the "venturi" effect on your exhaust system
this helps in creating the "venturi" effect on your exhaust system
I do know I've read a lot of posts on other forums where people overdid the front piping size in particular and ran into trouble.
#8
12-15-2006
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Magnaflow makes a X-Muffler, dual in dual out with the X inside of the muffler, I would stick to 2.25 or 2" to keep backpressure. I was thinking of doing this but instead went on true 2.5" header back. Aslong as you delete the last cat where the two pipes merge into the cat and have the two pipes folow side by side you should have no problem. I dunno what a V6 would sound like though so I went single exhaust.
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/s...ne=main&id=438
talk to SoundPer4mance, he hooked me up on my borla set up, and tell him you want the Magnaflow muffler with the X pipe in it.
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/s...ne=main&id=438
talk to SoundPer4mance, he hooked me up on my borla set up, and tell him you want the Magnaflow muffler with the X pipe in it.
Last edited by IR0NS1N; 12-15-2006 at 07:23 PM.
#9
12-15-2006
#10
12-15-2006
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Originally Posted by IR0NS1N
Aslong as you delete the last cat where the two pipes merge into the cat and have the two pipes folow side by side you should have no problem.
Our 01-03 4.0's have 4 cats, and they defenitly dont sound as good as the 04+ does.
#11
12-16-2006
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#15
12-17-2006
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I only know of 1 person on this site running a ' true ' dual setup.
What I do know from my twisting and playing.. Shawna has a glasspack on her truck.. we called it the ' pissed off bumblebee ' as it sounded like a fartcan. she had NO torque at all either.
I've toyed with 2"-3" pipes off my Y-pipe into Magnaflo, Ricemaster ( flomaster ) and Gibson mufflers. There were differences, but the most noticable difference has been after the muffler. I'm down to dual 2.0inch pipes. 3" lost power/torque. It felt liek I had a boat anchor on my rear bumper. 2.5 was still too big. 2.25 was nice, but 2" seems to be the best so far.
I have no explination for the physics behind all of it, just a lot of resiepts from buying all this piping
. I'm going to try a Borla Muffler here in the spring with my new mill and play this game all over again.
D.
What I do know from my twisting and playing.. Shawna has a glasspack on her truck.. we called it the ' pissed off bumblebee ' as it sounded like a fartcan. she had NO torque at all either.
I've toyed with 2"-3" pipes off my Y-pipe into Magnaflo, Ricemaster ( flomaster ) and Gibson mufflers. There were differences, but the most noticable difference has been after the muffler. I'm down to dual 2.0inch pipes. 3" lost power/torque. It felt liek I had a boat anchor on my rear bumper. 2.5 was still too big. 2.25 was nice, but 2" seems to be the best so far.
I have no explination for the physics behind all of it, just a lot of resiepts from buying all this piping
. I'm going to try a Borla Muffler here in the spring with my new mill and play this game all over again.D.
#16
12-17-2006
Originally Posted by 01xltranger4x4
Do it - but dont use glasspacks, they are junk.
#17
12-18-2006
Glasspacks are ok, but I believe Borla is the way to go. My brother-in-law had a glasspack on his 4-banger Ranger and it did sound like a hillbilly version of a fart-can. I had a flowmaster 40 series on another ranger I owned and it has ok. Flows just sound better on V-8's. I think I'm going to just stick with removing my rear cat and running 2.5" single side exit exhaust.
#18
12-18-2006
Originally Posted by EricTodd
I can get you high flow converters real cheap if you want em. I bought mine at this place for dirt cheap and it passed emissions with no problems and are made of stainless.
The new stock CAT's are already high flow. They are also more efficient than the older CAT's. You might find the ones you can get either don't work well on a later Ranger, are not adequate emissions-wise, or have no performance benefit.
#19
12-21-2006
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There have been quite a few exhaust tests done that show a v-6 does not like a cross over in the exhaust. I like the x-sound, but I would study things a little before using a crossover. I have seen tests that show a v-6 to like duals with NO crossover. Hell, in the recent MM&FF 4.0 Mustang bolt-on test, they mentioned this.
#20
12-22-2006
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Originally Posted by n3elz
Not as useful on a 2003 like the thread originator has. More useful on an older model like you own.
The new stock CAT's are already high flow. They are also more efficient than the older CAT's. You might find the ones you can get either don't work well on a later Ranger, are not adequate emissions-wise, or have no performance benefit.
The new stock CAT's are already high flow. They are also more efficient than the older CAT's. You might find the ones you can get either don't work well on a later Ranger, are not adequate emissions-wise, or have no performance benefit.
#21
12-22-2006
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Originally Posted by TORQUERULES
I have seen tests that show a v-6 to like duals with NO crossover. Hell, in the recent MM&FF 4.0 Mustang bolt-on test, they mentioned this.
#22
12-22-2006
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#23
12-22-2006
Originally Posted by sambob117
So for my 2003 there are already high flow cats?!? How are they compared to an after market hf cat?
Better flowing cat's were something manufacturers needed to help hit their fuel efficiency numbers, but they had to do it without compromising environmental performance. Hence the "preheater-then-main multi-cat" system we see on the recent vehicles.
#24
12-22-2006
Member
^^^^^^ I think your right, but I do think it changes the tone of the exhaust. In any event, I would be willing to try out a true dual setup, but my only thing is, I would want some kind of "H" or "X" pipe tho, but someone above mentioned that V6's don't like this setup. Is there any info to verify this?
#25
12-22-2006
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I don't know if this helps or hurts.
On our Victory motorcyles, our dyno guy will put a "baffle" in the pipes. This way you can have straight pipes but control the amount of back pressure needed for low end torque.
He welds a nut on a flat washer that fits inside the pipes. He drills a hole on the bottom side of the pipe and feeds a bolt through it. The bolt has a jamb nut on it. When he runs the bikes on the dyno he adjusts for max performance and then locks the washer in place. It works great on M/Cs perhaps you could use something like it in this case. This has no noticible effect on the tone of the pipes. (hope myexxplaination is clear)
On our Victory motorcyles, our dyno guy will put a "baffle" in the pipes. This way you can have straight pipes but control the amount of back pressure needed for low end torque.
He welds a nut on a flat washer that fits inside the pipes. He drills a hole on the bottom side of the pipe and feeds a bolt through it. The bolt has a jamb nut on it. When he runs the bikes on the dyno he adjusts for max performance and then locks the washer in place. It works great on M/Cs perhaps you could use something like it in this case. This has no noticible effect on the tone of the pipes. (hope myexxplaination is clear)
