99 Ford Ranger Speedometer, Check Engine Light, and ABS problem.
#1
01-27-2015
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Rocky Mount, NC
Posts: 4
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99 Ford Ranger Speedometer, Check Engine Light, and ABS problem.
I am new to the forum so I apologize if this is in the wrong category.
For the past few months I have had some issues with my 99 Ford Ranger. About six months ago my truck when stalled would make an obnoxiously loud screeching/hum sound. Talking with my dad we assumed it to be a problem with the engine belt slipping off and so I replaced it. A couple months after that my check engine light came on and so I drove down to Advance Auto and had them run a diagnostic test. The test showed that the O2 sensor needed to be replaced and so I changed out all three sensors and the light remained on. I took the advice from an associate and poured some Seafoam into my tank and the light went temporarily off but again came back on. I disconnected my battery in hopes the check engine light would reset and it did but kept coming back on. I again visited Advance Auto and their readings showed I needed to change my O2 sensors, even though I just did.
So for the past couple months I have just driven with my check engine light on. Some people have told me that until the code is cleared by a reader the light will not go away. Recently, the screeching/humming sound has come back every now and then and now not only when I am stalled but when I am driving slow. It has gotten to the point now it will get so loud that my truck just cuts itself off at stop lights. However I can just start it back up. I replaced the alternator thinking that may be the problem but still the sound has stuck around. Also I started noticing when I would get out of my truck the passenger side of the truck makes a loud creaky sound right about my tire when pressure gets put on it.
Most recently though I was driving on the highway using cruise control and my truck sort of jerked and my speedometer shot to 0mph, not moving at all, and my ABS light came on. My truck still functions normal I was able to accelerate and decelerate but my needle on the speedometer won't move and I cannot use my cruise control anymore.
It's just a lot of issues that I am experiencing and I feel like I have exhausted my reasonings and would like to hear of any solutions to these problems. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
For the past few months I have had some issues with my 99 Ford Ranger. About six months ago my truck when stalled would make an obnoxiously loud screeching/hum sound. Talking with my dad we assumed it to be a problem with the engine belt slipping off and so I replaced it. A couple months after that my check engine light came on and so I drove down to Advance Auto and had them run a diagnostic test. The test showed that the O2 sensor needed to be replaced and so I changed out all three sensors and the light remained on. I took the advice from an associate and poured some Seafoam into my tank and the light went temporarily off but again came back on. I disconnected my battery in hopes the check engine light would reset and it did but kept coming back on. I again visited Advance Auto and their readings showed I needed to change my O2 sensors, even though I just did.
So for the past couple months I have just driven with my check engine light on. Some people have told me that until the code is cleared by a reader the light will not go away. Recently, the screeching/humming sound has come back every now and then and now not only when I am stalled but when I am driving slow. It has gotten to the point now it will get so loud that my truck just cuts itself off at stop lights. However I can just start it back up. I replaced the alternator thinking that may be the problem but still the sound has stuck around. Also I started noticing when I would get out of my truck the passenger side of the truck makes a loud creaky sound right about my tire when pressure gets put on it.
Most recently though I was driving on the highway using cruise control and my truck sort of jerked and my speedometer shot to 0mph, not moving at all, and my ABS light came on. My truck still functions normal I was able to accelerate and decelerate but my needle on the speedometer won't move and I cannot use my cruise control anymore.
It's just a lot of issues that I am experiencing and I feel like I have exhausted my reasonings and would like to hear of any solutions to these problems. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
#2
01-27-2015
Just FYI, there is no code for "..the O2 sensor needed to be replaced"
The trouble codes are the computer telling driver that a parameter it has in memory has been crossed, i.e. if a sensor should show between 1volt and 4volts and computer sees .7volts or 4.2volts it sets a code for that.
This code does NOT mean the sensor is bad, it means the parameter(limits) has be reached, it could be a bad sensor but here is a statistic, 60% of all sensors replaced by professional mechanics were not bad, 90% of sensors replaced by DIYers were not bad.
So first thing you need to do is post the exact code number, or numbers, that were shown.
Seafoam in the gas tank once a year is a good maintenance routine for all fuel injected engines.
By far the most common issue on the 4.0l OHV engine running poorly, and/or throwing codes, is a dirty MAF sensor, this will also set a Lean/Rich O2 sensor code, NOT a MAF code.
That's how the computer codes work, MAF sensor gives computer the wrong info(computer has no way to know this) so computer is basing engine operation on incorrect data, O2 sensors report lean/rich over limit so computer reports that to the driver as an O2 code.
So "do NOT shoot the messenger", a code that mentions a sensor is usually telling you that sensor IS working and notifying the driver of an issue IT detected.
PCV vacuum leaks on the 4.0l is also fairly common, they have elbows on the hoses that wear on the bottom so can't be seen easily, this will cause O2 sensor codes and a few others.
Most common issue for '99 speedo failure is a failed or unplugged VSS(vehicle speed sensor), this causes many other issues, ABS, Cruise, MPG, automatic trans shifting.
It is on the top of the rear differential.
You can test it with an OHM Meter, it should be between 0.8 and 1.4 k Ohms.
If not, replace the sensor.
Pretty much all sensors and devices have an OHM or voltage test you can do, before replacing, a $25 Volt/OHM meter(DVOM) will save you hundreds in parts that didn't need to be replaced.
Cold engine
Remove Serpentine belt from crank pulley, so belt won't spin, you can run cold engine for 2 or 3 minutes without water pump, battery light will be on, thats OK.
Start engine, listen for squealing noise
Raise and lower RPMs
If no squealing then issue will be belt or pulley on an accessory .
If you hear squealing the Cam Syncro bushing is going bad, this is not an uncommon issue for the 3.0l and 4.0l, it is not hard to replace but does require re-timing CPS(cam position sensor), these usually last 100k miles.
If no squealing shut off engine
Spin each pulley including idler and tensioner pulley and listen for noise or if it is very hard to spin or it wobbles.
After putting belt back on start engine and set Heater to DEFROST, this will cause the A/C compressor to cycle on and off, watch and see if noise is associated with that on/off, there will be a click and you will see compressor start spinning.
Also turn the steering wheel, this will cause more drag on the power steering pump, listen for squealing
Another FYI, if a serpentine belt starts to squeal that squealing noise means the belt is slipping on a pulley, I know duh, BUT that also means that pulley is getting Glazed(polished), squealing = glazing.
So if you just put on a new belt and that pulley is still glazed then the new belt can start to squeal because of the glazing, old worn out belt may have been the original problem, this would be a new problem with the same symptom caused by the original problem.
So if belt is the source of the squealing you need to use sand paper or emory cloth to rough up the pulley surfaces, i.e. remove the glazing
Belt works by friction, as do tires, you try to drive on a polished surface like ICE and we would hear plenty of squealing from you too, and me, lol.
Anyway post the code(s) and we can go from there
The trouble codes are the computer telling driver that a parameter it has in memory has been crossed, i.e. if a sensor should show between 1volt and 4volts and computer sees .7volts or 4.2volts it sets a code for that.
This code does NOT mean the sensor is bad, it means the parameter(limits) has be reached, it could be a bad sensor but here is a statistic, 60% of all sensors replaced by professional mechanics were not bad, 90% of sensors replaced by DIYers were not bad.
So first thing you need to do is post the exact code number, or numbers, that were shown.
Seafoam in the gas tank once a year is a good maintenance routine for all fuel injected engines.
By far the most common issue on the 4.0l OHV engine running poorly, and/or throwing codes, is a dirty MAF sensor, this will also set a Lean/Rich O2 sensor code, NOT a MAF code.
That's how the computer codes work, MAF sensor gives computer the wrong info(computer has no way to know this) so computer is basing engine operation on incorrect data, O2 sensors report lean/rich over limit so computer reports that to the driver as an O2 code.
So "do NOT shoot the messenger", a code that mentions a sensor is usually telling you that sensor IS working and notifying the driver of an issue IT detected.
PCV vacuum leaks on the 4.0l is also fairly common, they have elbows on the hoses that wear on the bottom so can't be seen easily, this will cause O2 sensor codes and a few others.
Most common issue for '99 speedo failure is a failed or unplugged VSS(vehicle speed sensor), this causes many other issues, ABS, Cruise, MPG, automatic trans shifting.
It is on the top of the rear differential.
You can test it with an OHM Meter, it should be between 0.8 and 1.4 k Ohms.
If not, replace the sensor.
Pretty much all sensors and devices have an OHM or voltage test you can do, before replacing, a $25 Volt/OHM meter(DVOM) will save you hundreds in parts that didn't need to be replaced.
Cold engine
Remove Serpentine belt from crank pulley, so belt won't spin, you can run cold engine for 2 or 3 minutes without water pump, battery light will be on, thats OK.
Start engine, listen for squealing noise
Raise and lower RPMs
If no squealing then issue will be belt or pulley on an accessory .
If you hear squealing the Cam Syncro bushing is going bad, this is not an uncommon issue for the 3.0l and 4.0l, it is not hard to replace but does require re-timing CPS(cam position sensor), these usually last 100k miles.
If no squealing shut off engine
Spin each pulley including idler and tensioner pulley and listen for noise or if it is very hard to spin or it wobbles.
After putting belt back on start engine and set Heater to DEFROST, this will cause the A/C compressor to cycle on and off, watch and see if noise is associated with that on/off, there will be a click and you will see compressor start spinning.
Also turn the steering wheel, this will cause more drag on the power steering pump, listen for squealing
Another FYI, if a serpentine belt starts to squeal that squealing noise means the belt is slipping on a pulley, I know duh, BUT that also means that pulley is getting Glazed(polished), squealing = glazing.
So if you just put on a new belt and that pulley is still glazed then the new belt can start to squeal because of the glazing, old worn out belt may have been the original problem, this would be a new problem with the same symptom caused by the original problem.
So if belt is the source of the squealing you need to use sand paper or emory cloth to rough up the pulley surfaces, i.e. remove the glazing
Belt works by friction, as do tires, you try to drive on a polished surface like ICE and we would hear plenty of squealing from you too, and me, lol.
Anyway post the code(s) and we can go from there
Last edited by RonD; 01-27-2015 at 04:17 PM.
#3
02-01-2015
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Rocky Mount, NC
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just FYI, there is no code for "..the O2 sensor needed to be replaced"
The trouble codes are the computer telling driver that a parameter it has in memory has been crossed, i.e. if a sensor should show between 1volt and 4volts and computer sees .7volts or 4.2volts it sets a code for that.
This code does NOT mean the sensor is bad, it means the parameter(limits) has be reached, it could be a bad sensor but here is a statistic, 60% of all sensors replaced by professional mechanics were not bad, 90% of sensors replaced by DIYers were not bad.
So first thing you need to do is post the exact code number, or numbers, that were shown.
Seafoam in the gas tank once a year is a good maintenance routine for all fuel injected engines.
By far the most common issue on the 4.0l OHV engine running poorly, and/or throwing codes, is a dirty MAF sensor, this will also set a Lean/Rich O2 sensor code, NOT a MAF code.
That's how the computer codes work, MAF sensor gives computer the wrong info(computer has no way to know this) so computer is basing engine operation on incorrect data, O2 sensors report lean/rich over limit so computer reports that to the driver as an O2 code.
So "do NOT shoot the messenger", a code that mentions a sensor is usually telling you that sensor IS working and notifying the driver of an issue IT detected.
PCV vacuum leaks on the 4.0l is also fairly common, they have elbows on the hoses that wear on the bottom so can't be seen easily, this will cause O2 sensor codes and a few others.
Most common issue for '99 speedo failure is a failed or unplugged VSS(vehicle speed sensor), this causes many other issues, ABS, Cruise, MPG, automatic trans shifting.
It is on the top of the rear differential.
You can test it with an OHM Meter, it should be between 0.8 and 1.4 k Ohms.
If not, replace the sensor.
Pretty much all sensors and devices have an OHM or voltage test you can do, before replacing, a $25 Volt/OHM meter(DVOM) will save you hundreds in parts that didn't need to be replaced.
Cold engine
Remove Serpentine belt from crank pulley, so belt won't spin, you can run cold engine for 2 or 3 minutes without water pump, battery light will be on, thats OK.
Start engine, listen for squealing noise
Raise and lower RPMs
If no squealing then issue will be belt or pulley on an accessory .
If you hear squealing the Cam Syncro bushing is going bad, this is not an uncommon issue for the 3.0l and 4.0l, it is not hard to replace but does require re-timing CPS(cam position sensor), these usually last 100k miles.
If no squealing shut off engine
Spin each pulley including idler and tensioner pulley and listen for noise or if it is very hard to spin or it wobbles.
After putting belt back on start engine and set Heater to DEFROST, this will cause the A/C compressor to cycle on and off, watch and see if noise is associated with that on/off, there will be a click and you will see compressor start spinning.
Also turn the steering wheel, this will cause more drag on the power steering pump, listen for squealing
Another FYI, if a serpentine belt starts to squeal that squealing noise means the belt is slipping on a pulley, I know duh, BUT that also means that pulley is getting Glazed(polished), squealing = glazing.
So if you just put on a new belt and that pulley is still glazed then the new belt can start to squeal because of the glazing, old worn out belt may have been the original problem, this would be a new problem with the same symptom caused by the original problem.
So if belt is the source of the squealing you need to use sand paper or emory cloth to rough up the pulley surfaces, i.e. remove the glazing
Belt works by friction, as do tires, you try to drive on a polished surface like ICE and we would hear plenty of squealing from you too, and me, lol.
Anyway post the code(s) and we can go from there
The trouble codes are the computer telling driver that a parameter it has in memory has been crossed, i.e. if a sensor should show between 1volt and 4volts and computer sees .7volts or 4.2volts it sets a code for that.
This code does NOT mean the sensor is bad, it means the parameter(limits) has be reached, it could be a bad sensor but here is a statistic, 60% of all sensors replaced by professional mechanics were not bad, 90% of sensors replaced by DIYers were not bad.
So first thing you need to do is post the exact code number, or numbers, that were shown.
Seafoam in the gas tank once a year is a good maintenance routine for all fuel injected engines.
By far the most common issue on the 4.0l OHV engine running poorly, and/or throwing codes, is a dirty MAF sensor, this will also set a Lean/Rich O2 sensor code, NOT a MAF code.
That's how the computer codes work, MAF sensor gives computer the wrong info(computer has no way to know this) so computer is basing engine operation on incorrect data, O2 sensors report lean/rich over limit so computer reports that to the driver as an O2 code.
So "do NOT shoot the messenger", a code that mentions a sensor is usually telling you that sensor IS working and notifying the driver of an issue IT detected.
PCV vacuum leaks on the 4.0l is also fairly common, they have elbows on the hoses that wear on the bottom so can't be seen easily, this will cause O2 sensor codes and a few others.
Most common issue for '99 speedo failure is a failed or unplugged VSS(vehicle speed sensor), this causes many other issues, ABS, Cruise, MPG, automatic trans shifting.
It is on the top of the rear differential.
You can test it with an OHM Meter, it should be between 0.8 and 1.4 k Ohms.
If not, replace the sensor.
Pretty much all sensors and devices have an OHM or voltage test you can do, before replacing, a $25 Volt/OHM meter(DVOM) will save you hundreds in parts that didn't need to be replaced.
Cold engine
Remove Serpentine belt from crank pulley, so belt won't spin, you can run cold engine for 2 or 3 minutes without water pump, battery light will be on, thats OK.
Start engine, listen for squealing noise
Raise and lower RPMs
If no squealing then issue will be belt or pulley on an accessory .
If you hear squealing the Cam Syncro bushing is going bad, this is not an uncommon issue for the 3.0l and 4.0l, it is not hard to replace but does require re-timing CPS(cam position sensor), these usually last 100k miles.
If no squealing shut off engine
Spin each pulley including idler and tensioner pulley and listen for noise or if it is very hard to spin or it wobbles.
After putting belt back on start engine and set Heater to DEFROST, this will cause the A/C compressor to cycle on and off, watch and see if noise is associated with that on/off, there will be a click and you will see compressor start spinning.
Also turn the steering wheel, this will cause more drag on the power steering pump, listen for squealing
Another FYI, if a serpentine belt starts to squeal that squealing noise means the belt is slipping on a pulley, I know duh, BUT that also means that pulley is getting Glazed(polished), squealing = glazing.
So if you just put on a new belt and that pulley is still glazed then the new belt can start to squeal because of the glazing, old worn out belt may have been the original problem, this would be a new problem with the same symptom caused by the original problem.
So if belt is the source of the squealing you need to use sand paper or emory cloth to rough up the pulley surfaces, i.e. remove the glazing
Belt works by friction, as do tires, you try to drive on a polished surface like ICE and we would hear plenty of squealing from you too, and me, lol.
Anyway post the code(s) and we can go from there
I found out the issue with my ABS light and my speedometer was from my VSS (vehicle speed sensor). I have an OHM meter but I am not all that knowledgeable about how to properly use it. I located the VSS, popped it off, and replaced it and everything was back to normal. Also anyone who may be having this same problem, I am someone who normally takes my business to Advance Auto Parts because they usually have good deals and coupons. I found out they wanted $62 for the part. I did some research and NAPA sells the same exact part for $16, BIGGGGG money saving difference.
As far as the O2 sensor issue, I understand now what you are saying by there not being a code that can say the sensors are bad. I detached my battery for a little under and hour to reset the codes but after about an hour the check engine light came back. I haven't had a chance to make it back to Advance to get a readout but the "too lean/rich" is exactly what the read out code was. I have been told by some that the reason the check engine light stays on is because it hasn't been cleared by the reader and that in order for the light to disappear, it has to be cleared by the reader. I am not sure if that is true or not.
I ran out of time before I could inspect the belt issue but I am going to try those my next day off and report back with the results. As far as the squeaking on the side of my truck it almost sounds like it is coming from my shocks and so I didn't think that was enough to be concerned given the year of the truck.
But thank you again RonD you were an enormous help! Let me know if you have any more thoughts or solutions to try!
#4
02-01-2015
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Rocky Mount, NC
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just FYI, there is no code for "..the O2 sensor needed to be replaced"
The trouble codes are the computer telling driver that a parameter it has in memory has been crossed, i.e. if a sensor should show between 1volt and 4volts and computer sees .7volts or 4.2volts it sets a code for that.
This code does NOT mean the sensor is bad, it means the parameter(limits) has be reached, it could be a bad sensor but here is a statistic, 60% of all sensors replaced by professional mechanics were not bad, 90% of sensors replaced by DIYers were not bad.
So first thing you need to do is post the exact code number, or numbers, that were shown.
Seafoam in the gas tank once a year is a good maintenance routine for all fuel injected engines.
By far the most common issue on the 4.0l OHV engine running poorly, and/or throwing codes, is a dirty MAF sensor, this will also set a Lean/Rich O2 sensor code, NOT a MAF code.
That's how the computer codes work, MAF sensor gives computer the wrong info(computer has no way to know this) so computer is basing engine operation on incorrect data, O2 sensors report lean/rich over limit so computer reports that to the driver as an O2 code.
So "do NOT shoot the messenger", a code that mentions a sensor is usually telling you that sensor IS working and notifying the driver of an issue IT detected.
PCV vacuum leaks on the 4.0l is also fairly common, they have elbows on the hoses that wear on the bottom so can't be seen easily, this will cause O2 sensor codes and a few others.
Most common issue for '99 speedo failure is a failed or unplugged VSS(vehicle speed sensor), this causes many other issues, ABS, Cruise, MPG, automatic trans shifting.
It is on the top of the rear differential.
You can test it with an OHM Meter, it should be between 0.8 and 1.4 k Ohms.
If not, replace the sensor.
Pretty much all sensors and devices have an OHM or voltage test you can do, before replacing, a $25 Volt/OHM meter(DVOM) will save you hundreds in parts that didn't need to be replaced.
Cold engine
Remove Serpentine belt from crank pulley, so belt won't spin, you can run cold engine for 2 or 3 minutes without water pump, battery light will be on, thats OK.
Start engine, listen for squealing noise
Raise and lower RPMs
If no squealing then issue will be belt or pulley on an accessory .
If you hear squealing the Cam Syncro bushing is going bad, this is not an uncommon issue for the 3.0l and 4.0l, it is not hard to replace but does require re-timing CPS(cam position sensor), these usually last 100k miles.
If no squealing shut off engine
Spin each pulley including idler and tensioner pulley and listen for noise or if it is very hard to spin or it wobbles.
After putting belt back on start engine and set Heater to DEFROST, this will cause the A/C compressor to cycle on and off, watch and see if noise is associated with that on/off, there will be a click and you will see compressor start spinning.
Also turn the steering wheel, this will cause more drag on the power steering pump, listen for squealing
Another FYI, if a serpentine belt starts to squeal that squealing noise means the belt is slipping on a pulley, I know duh, BUT that also means that pulley is getting Glazed(polished), squealing = glazing.
So if you just put on a new belt and that pulley is still glazed then the new belt can start to squeal because of the glazing, old worn out belt may have been the original problem, this would be a new problem with the same symptom caused by the original problem.
So if belt is the source of the squealing you need to use sand paper or emory cloth to rough up the pulley surfaces, i.e. remove the glazing
Belt works by friction, as do tires, you try to drive on a polished surface like ICE and we would hear plenty of squealing from you too, and me, lol.
Anyway post the code(s) and we can go from there
The trouble codes are the computer telling driver that a parameter it has in memory has been crossed, i.e. if a sensor should show between 1volt and 4volts and computer sees .7volts or 4.2volts it sets a code for that.
This code does NOT mean the sensor is bad, it means the parameter(limits) has be reached, it could be a bad sensor but here is a statistic, 60% of all sensors replaced by professional mechanics were not bad, 90% of sensors replaced by DIYers were not bad.
So first thing you need to do is post the exact code number, or numbers, that were shown.
Seafoam in the gas tank once a year is a good maintenance routine for all fuel injected engines.
By far the most common issue on the 4.0l OHV engine running poorly, and/or throwing codes, is a dirty MAF sensor, this will also set a Lean/Rich O2 sensor code, NOT a MAF code.
That's how the computer codes work, MAF sensor gives computer the wrong info(computer has no way to know this) so computer is basing engine operation on incorrect data, O2 sensors report lean/rich over limit so computer reports that to the driver as an O2 code.
So "do NOT shoot the messenger", a code that mentions a sensor is usually telling you that sensor IS working and notifying the driver of an issue IT detected.
PCV vacuum leaks on the 4.0l is also fairly common, they have elbows on the hoses that wear on the bottom so can't be seen easily, this will cause O2 sensor codes and a few others.
Most common issue for '99 speedo failure is a failed or unplugged VSS(vehicle speed sensor), this causes many other issues, ABS, Cruise, MPG, automatic trans shifting.
It is on the top of the rear differential.
You can test it with an OHM Meter, it should be between 0.8 and 1.4 k Ohms.
If not, replace the sensor.
Pretty much all sensors and devices have an OHM or voltage test you can do, before replacing, a $25 Volt/OHM meter(DVOM) will save you hundreds in parts that didn't need to be replaced.
Cold engine
Remove Serpentine belt from crank pulley, so belt won't spin, you can run cold engine for 2 or 3 minutes without water pump, battery light will be on, thats OK.
Start engine, listen for squealing noise
Raise and lower RPMs
If no squealing then issue will be belt or pulley on an accessory .
If you hear squealing the Cam Syncro bushing is going bad, this is not an uncommon issue for the 3.0l and 4.0l, it is not hard to replace but does require re-timing CPS(cam position sensor), these usually last 100k miles.
If no squealing shut off engine
Spin each pulley including idler and tensioner pulley and listen for noise or if it is very hard to spin or it wobbles.
After putting belt back on start engine and set Heater to DEFROST, this will cause the A/C compressor to cycle on and off, watch and see if noise is associated with that on/off, there will be a click and you will see compressor start spinning.
Also turn the steering wheel, this will cause more drag on the power steering pump, listen for squealing
Another FYI, if a serpentine belt starts to squeal that squealing noise means the belt is slipping on a pulley, I know duh, BUT that also means that pulley is getting Glazed(polished), squealing = glazing.
So if you just put on a new belt and that pulley is still glazed then the new belt can start to squeal because of the glazing, old worn out belt may have been the original problem, this would be a new problem with the same symptom caused by the original problem.
So if belt is the source of the squealing you need to use sand paper or emory cloth to rough up the pulley surfaces, i.e. remove the glazing
Belt works by friction, as do tires, you try to drive on a polished surface like ICE and we would hear plenty of squealing from you too, and me, lol.
Anyway post the code(s) and we can go from there
I found out the issue with my ABS light and my speedometer was from my VSS (vehicle speed sensor). I have an OHM meter but I am not all that knowledgeable about how to properly use it. I located the VSS, popped it off, and replaced it and everything was back to normal. Also anyone who may be having this same problem, I am someone who normally takes my business to Advance Auto Parts because they usually have good deals and coupons. I found out they wanted $62 for the part. I did some research and NAPA sells the same exact part for $16, BIGGGGG money saving difference.
As far as the O2 sensor issue, I understand now what you are saying by there not being a code that can say the sensors are bad. I detached my battery for a little under and hour to reset the codes but after about an hour the check engine light came back. I haven't had a chance to make it back to Advance to get a readout but the "too lean/rich" is exactly what the read out code was. I have been told by some that the reason the check engine light stays on is because it hasn't been cleared by the reader and that in order for the light to disappear, it has to be cleared by the reader. I am not sure if that is true or not.
I ran out of time before I could inspect the belt issue but I am going to try those my next day off and report back with the results. As far as the squeaking on the side of my truck it almost sounds like it is coming from my shocks and so I didn't think that was enough to be concerned given the year of the truck.
But thank you again RonD you were an enormous help! Let me know if you have any more thoughts or solutions to try!
#5
02-01-2015
Good work on the VSS!
Only emissions codes will come back after unhooking the battery for over 5 minutes.
These have to do with pollution more than engine operation, EVAP(fuel tank pressure) is one that can be hard to clear.
If CEL(check engine light) takes longer than 20 minutes to come back on after a reset then problem hasn't been fixed, new or same code was set.
Yes, lean/rich is a common group of codes, lean is the most common of the two, computer sets these codes because of fuel injector "dwell time" or "pulse width", i.e. how long it is opening the injectors.
Computer reads the air coming into the engine using the MAF(mass air flow) sensor.
It then calculates how long it needs to open the injectors to get the gasoline 14:1 air:fuel ratio.
Computers are good at this, simple math, and they can do it quickly, XX amount of air, add XX amount of fuel, simple.
The O2 sensor is there to tell the computer if it's calculations are correct.
O2 sensors only "see" Oxygen, not fuel, too much oxygen means Lean, too little oxygen mean Rich.
If O2 sensor tells computer exhaust is lean computer adds more fuel, opens injectors longer
Computer sets 14:1 calculation as 0, if it has to open injector longer, that is a +1
If O2 shows Rich then it opens injectors less time, that would be a -1.
If you were to watch "fuel trims" in real time with an OBDII scanner/reader, you would see the numbers cycling a few times a second, between -5 and +5 regardless of RPMs and load, that is the computer giving you the best fuel economy.
Idle is +3 to +8, it is set rich on purpose.
So those are the normal parameters, if computer reaches +20 to +25 it will set a Lean code because by it's calculations it is having to add too much fuel.
-20 to -25 it would set a Rich code because it is not adding enough fuel based on it's calculations.
These are just limits programmed in to the computers software.
For Lean codes it could be the MAF sensor under reporting the air coming in(dirty), it could be a vacuum leak, so all the air is not coming in thru the MAF sensor.
Could be low fuel pressure, computer bases calculation for injector pulse width on XX fuel pressure, if it is too low not enough fuel comes in when injector opens.
Could be an exhaust manifold leak, this sucks in air, O2 reads that air as Lean.
Could be a misfire, when a cylinder misfires no oxygen is burned, so all the oxygen goes out to O2 sensor, which shows as lean.
Rich could be a leaking injector, or on pre-'98, it could be leaking fuel pressure regulator.
And it could be the O2 sensor.............but as said don't shoot the messenger first thing, lol.
Just as a "by the way", you can get OBD II bluetooth readers for $15-$25, these work with Smart Phones as the displays.
No batteries needed, they plug into the OBDII connector under the dash, and it has power
You can then connect to them wirelessly via bluetooth and view codes and do resets, also real time monitoring of the data while you are driving.
I have a scanner/reader so haven't personally used one, but a few friends have them and say they work great, but I don't know a model number to recommend.
Make sure the app is free or at a price you can live with, sometimes the cheaper hardware has a $10 app price, so cost more in the long run.
OBDII has been the standard since 1995 for all vehicles sold in the US and Canada, so it will work on any car/truck made after 1995
Only emissions codes will come back after unhooking the battery for over 5 minutes.
These have to do with pollution more than engine operation, EVAP(fuel tank pressure) is one that can be hard to clear.
If CEL(check engine light) takes longer than 20 minutes to come back on after a reset then problem hasn't been fixed, new or same code was set.
Yes, lean/rich is a common group of codes, lean is the most common of the two, computer sets these codes because of fuel injector "dwell time" or "pulse width", i.e. how long it is opening the injectors.
Computer reads the air coming into the engine using the MAF(mass air flow) sensor.
It then calculates how long it needs to open the injectors to get the gasoline 14:1 air:fuel ratio.
Computers are good at this, simple math, and they can do it quickly, XX amount of air, add XX amount of fuel, simple.
The O2 sensor is there to tell the computer if it's calculations are correct.
O2 sensors only "see" Oxygen, not fuel, too much oxygen means Lean, too little oxygen mean Rich.
If O2 sensor tells computer exhaust is lean computer adds more fuel, opens injectors longer
Computer sets 14:1 calculation as 0, if it has to open injector longer, that is a +1
If O2 shows Rich then it opens injectors less time, that would be a -1.
If you were to watch "fuel trims" in real time with an OBDII scanner/reader, you would see the numbers cycling a few times a second, between -5 and +5 regardless of RPMs and load, that is the computer giving you the best fuel economy.
Idle is +3 to +8, it is set rich on purpose.
So those are the normal parameters, if computer reaches +20 to +25 it will set a Lean code because by it's calculations it is having to add too much fuel.
-20 to -25 it would set a Rich code because it is not adding enough fuel based on it's calculations.
These are just limits programmed in to the computers software.
For Lean codes it could be the MAF sensor under reporting the air coming in(dirty), it could be a vacuum leak, so all the air is not coming in thru the MAF sensor.
Could be low fuel pressure, computer bases calculation for injector pulse width on XX fuel pressure, if it is too low not enough fuel comes in when injector opens.
Could be an exhaust manifold leak, this sucks in air, O2 reads that air as Lean.
Could be a misfire, when a cylinder misfires no oxygen is burned, so all the oxygen goes out to O2 sensor, which shows as lean.
Rich could be a leaking injector, or on pre-'98, it could be leaking fuel pressure regulator.
And it could be the O2 sensor.............but as said don't shoot the messenger first thing, lol.
Just as a "by the way", you can get OBD II bluetooth readers for $15-$25, these work with Smart Phones as the displays.
No batteries needed, they plug into the OBDII connector under the dash, and it has power
You can then connect to them wirelessly via bluetooth and view codes and do resets, also real time monitoring of the data while you are driving.
I have a scanner/reader so haven't personally used one, but a few friends have them and say they work great, but I don't know a model number to recommend.
Make sure the app is free or at a price you can live with, sometimes the cheaper hardware has a $10 app price, so cost more in the long run.
OBDII has been the standard since 1995 for all vehicles sold in the US and Canada, so it will work on any car/truck made after 1995
Last edited by RonD; 02-01-2015 at 10:01 PM.
#6
02-28-2015
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Rocky Mount, NC
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Good work on the VSS!
Only emissions codes will come back after unhooking the battery for over 5 minutes.
These have to do with pollution more than engine operation, EVAP(fuel tank pressure) is one that can be hard to clear.
If CEL(check engine light) takes longer than 20 minutes to come back on after a reset then problem hasn't been fixed, new or same code was set.
Yes, lean/rich is a common group of codes, lean is the most common of the two, computer sets these codes because of fuel injector "dwell time" or "pulse width", i.e. how long it is opening the injectors.
Computer reads the air coming into the engine using the MAF(mass air flow) sensor.
It then calculates how long it needs to open the injectors to get the gasoline 14:1 air:fuel ratio.
Computers are good at this, simple math, and they can do it quickly, XX amount of air, add XX amount of fuel, simple.
The O2 sensor is there to tell the computer if it's calculations are correct.
O2 sensors only "see" Oxygen, not fuel, too much oxygen means Lean, too little oxygen mean Rich.
If O2 sensor tells computer exhaust is lean computer adds more fuel, opens injectors longer
Computer sets 14:1 calculation as 0, if it has to open injector longer, that is a +1
If O2 shows Rich then it opens injectors less time, that would be a -1.
If you were to watch "fuel trims" in real time with an OBDII scanner/reader, you would see the numbers cycling a few times a second, between -5 and +5 regardless of RPMs and load, that is the computer giving you the best fuel economy.
Idle is +3 to +8, it is set rich on purpose.
So those are the normal parameters, if computer reaches +20 to +25 it will set a Lean code because by it's calculations it is having to add too much fuel.
-20 to -25 it would set a Rich code because it is not adding enough fuel based on it's calculations.
These are just limits programmed in to the computers software.
For Lean codes it could be the MAF sensor under reporting the air coming in(dirty), it could be a vacuum leak, so all the air is not coming in thru the MAF sensor.
Could be low fuel pressure, computer bases calculation for injector pulse width on XX fuel pressure, if it is too low not enough fuel comes in when injector opens.
Could be an exhaust manifold leak, this sucks in air, O2 reads that air as Lean.
Could be a misfire, when a cylinder misfires no oxygen is burned, so all the oxygen goes out to O2 sensor, which shows as lean.
Rich could be a leaking injector, or on pre-'98, it could be leaking fuel pressure regulator.
And it could be the O2 sensor.............but as said don't shoot the messenger first thing, lol.
Just as a "by the way", you can get OBD II bluetooth readers for $15-$25, these work with Smart Phones as the displays.
No batteries needed, they plug into the OBDII connector under the dash, and it has power
You can then connect to them wirelessly via bluetooth and view codes and do resets, also real time monitoring of the data while you are driving.
I have a scanner/reader so haven't personally used one, but a few friends have them and say they work great, but I don't know a model number to recommend.
Make sure the app is free or at a price you can live with, sometimes the cheaper hardware has a $10 app price, so cost more in the long run.
OBDII has been the standard since 1995 for all vehicles sold in the US and Canada, so it will work on any car/truck made after 1995
Only emissions codes will come back after unhooking the battery for over 5 minutes.
These have to do with pollution more than engine operation, EVAP(fuel tank pressure) is one that can be hard to clear.
If CEL(check engine light) takes longer than 20 minutes to come back on after a reset then problem hasn't been fixed, new or same code was set.
Yes, lean/rich is a common group of codes, lean is the most common of the two, computer sets these codes because of fuel injector "dwell time" or "pulse width", i.e. how long it is opening the injectors.
Computer reads the air coming into the engine using the MAF(mass air flow) sensor.
It then calculates how long it needs to open the injectors to get the gasoline 14:1 air:fuel ratio.
Computers are good at this, simple math, and they can do it quickly, XX amount of air, add XX amount of fuel, simple.
The O2 sensor is there to tell the computer if it's calculations are correct.
O2 sensors only "see" Oxygen, not fuel, too much oxygen means Lean, too little oxygen mean Rich.
If O2 sensor tells computer exhaust is lean computer adds more fuel, opens injectors longer
Computer sets 14:1 calculation as 0, if it has to open injector longer, that is a +1
If O2 shows Rich then it opens injectors less time, that would be a -1.
If you were to watch "fuel trims" in real time with an OBDII scanner/reader, you would see the numbers cycling a few times a second, between -5 and +5 regardless of RPMs and load, that is the computer giving you the best fuel economy.
Idle is +3 to +8, it is set rich on purpose.
So those are the normal parameters, if computer reaches +20 to +25 it will set a Lean code because by it's calculations it is having to add too much fuel.
-20 to -25 it would set a Rich code because it is not adding enough fuel based on it's calculations.
These are just limits programmed in to the computers software.
For Lean codes it could be the MAF sensor under reporting the air coming in(dirty), it could be a vacuum leak, so all the air is not coming in thru the MAF sensor.
Could be low fuel pressure, computer bases calculation for injector pulse width on XX fuel pressure, if it is too low not enough fuel comes in when injector opens.
Could be an exhaust manifold leak, this sucks in air, O2 reads that air as Lean.
Could be a misfire, when a cylinder misfires no oxygen is burned, so all the oxygen goes out to O2 sensor, which shows as lean.
Rich could be a leaking injector, or on pre-'98, it could be leaking fuel pressure regulator.
And it could be the O2 sensor.............but as said don't shoot the messenger first thing, lol.
Just as a "by the way", you can get OBD II bluetooth readers for $15-$25, these work with Smart Phones as the displays.
No batteries needed, they plug into the OBDII connector under the dash, and it has power
You can then connect to them wirelessly via bluetooth and view codes and do resets, also real time monitoring of the data while you are driving.
I have a scanner/reader so haven't personally used one, but a few friends have them and say they work great, but I don't know a model number to recommend.
Make sure the app is free or at a price you can live with, sometimes the cheaper hardware has a $10 app price, so cost more in the long run.
OBDII has been the standard since 1995 for all vehicles sold in the US and Canada, so it will work on any car/truck made after 1995
Since my last post my check engine light has remained on but I have had no problems. Thank you for pointing me in the direction of those readers, I am going to purchase one soon.
My belt has continued to wail and lately has picked back up. I sprayed some WD-40 On it and it seemed to help with the noise. I guess every couple months I will just need to continue to do that.
Thank you again for all your help all of your suggestions have been great and very helpful.
Last edited by Harper.; 02-28-2015 at 07:43 AM.
#7
02-28-2015
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