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4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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Old 02-19-2014
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I am: Eric Stephenson
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Lakeside, California
Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger
Drive Type: 4x2
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 4
Total Props: 0
Time to upgrade my baby! MANY QUESTIONS, PLEASE HELP!

This is my truck, Shelly.

She's a 2003 Ford Ranger, 4.0L V6 4x2.

Shelly Photo by eric_stephenson1 | Photobucket

I'm getting my license exactly a year from now, and I think It's time to upgrade my truck.

Here's some things that I'd like to do.

2" or 3" body lift
Wheels (Not sure what kind yet)
32" Tires (Not sure what kind yet)
2" Wheel Spacers
Flowmaster Super 40

The first thing on my to buy list is the Flowmaster Super 40, I am buying the muffler later this week. I am not even sure what inlet/outlet to get for it. Can you please start off by answering this question? I will have many questions following this one. Thank you so much!
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Old 02-19-2014
redranger04g's Avatar

iTrader: (2)
I am: Gary D
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Placentia, CA
Vehicle: 2004
Posts: 928
Total Props: 6
2.5" inlet/outlet
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Old 02-19-2014
doyouquaxu's Avatar
I am: doyou quaxu
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Orange County, CA
Vehicle: 2001 XLT
Drive Type: 2
Engine: 4
Posts: 73
Total Props: 0
You should get your license and practice driving the truck stock before you go modifying it and changing everything IMO. Take care of it and learn how to work on it, then if you don't wreck it you should upgrade stuff. Just my opinion.

Like redranger04g said, 2.5" in and out is what everyone runs on these trucks
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Old 02-20-2014
iTrader: (1)
I am: Ron Dean
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Vancouver, BC
Vehicle: 1994 Ford Ranger
Drive Type: 4x4
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 4,725
Total Props: 88
There are several sites that have "Wheel Visualizer"
This application allows you to get an idea of what wheels you might like the best on your Ranger.

As far as exhaust systems there is some confusion on what is "best"
A manufacturer, in general, designs the exhaust system for best mid-range power.
You can change the exhaust for more low-end or more high-end power, you don't get more power, you just change the RPM range of the "power band"

What you want generally is to keep the same "velocity" in the system if you like the current mid-range power band.
A bigger pipe will have less velocity than current, a smaller pipe will increase velocity but too small will reduce flow.

This is often where the myth of exhaust "back pressure" comes from.
If you have 3 cylinders(1 bank of v6) flowing out the exhaust manifold into one collector, larger pipe, then the velocity of one exhaust pulse flowing out to collector will reduce the pressure in the other two exhaust ports on that manifold, a suction occurs.
If larger diameter exhaust manifold is used you would notice an overall power drop, this is because you reduced the velocity at the collector so less reduction of pressure at the other two exhaust ports, so instead of exhaust getting a helping "pull" out of the cylinder it is having to "push" more.
So with bigger pipe and losing power people think there wasn't enough "back pressure"
Myth was born.

So what you want is velocity in the shared exhaust system.
At the tail pipe end a larger diameter shouldn't matter, velocity is created at the exhaust port, and collector.
But if you increase diameter at the muffler then you need to continue that diameter to the tail pipe.
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Old 02-20-2014
Blossomforth's Avatar
I am: Blossom Forth
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: CT
Vehicle: 1996 Ford Ranger
Drive Type: 4x2
Engine: 2.3
Posts: 39
Total Props: 0
I second the idea of driving it stock before messing with the ride height or getting bigger tires. Lifts and taller tires change the handling dynamics of the truck and alter its center of gravity. You'll know its limit in stock configuration, so when you start modding it, you will notice the new limit and be able to adjust to how it drives.

You can clear 31s with the stock suspension, and gain more ground clearance by cranking the torsion bars and installing lift shackles in the rear. Cheaper and easier to install than a body lift. Should be able to get a set of 32s under the truck just fine with minor/inexpensive mods like those.

Skip the spacers if you're getting new wheels. You can buy wheels with the correct backspacing and offset to get the look you're after.
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