03 Ranger swap (and questions!)
#26
#27
nice truck! jealous of your backhalf. As far as cams, either of the ones you mentioned would be good until you make further modifications.
I think with my new build I'm going with a Anderson n-91
I could drink beer all day in a chair listening to this come out of my ranger
306 Mustang idle. Anderson N-91 cam. - YouTube
I think with my new build I'm going with a Anderson n-91
I could drink beer all day in a chair listening to this come out of my ranger
306 Mustang idle. Anderson N-91 cam. - YouTube
#29
#30
#31
Did anyone take out their donor 5.0 engine and tranny as one and install it as such? I'm not doing anything to the donor 4R70, so I'd LIKE to keep it attached if possible. Seems like it will be tough to install in my Ranger though. The truck is fairly tall which would mean getting that engine/tranny pretty high up and putting it in at a steep angle. Not sure if its worth it. I might make my front core and sub frame removable... Its already heavily fabbed and minimal, so wouldn't be hard.
#32
They'll absolutely come out and go back in as a mated pair.
To complicate things, I've done the remove/install with Torque Monster headers installed which adds to the width quite a bit.
Only place things get crazy tight is the air box/header area (VERY easy to remove the complete air box) and leading edge of the oil sump and the cross member. Radiator needs to be out but the condenser can stay.
Having the harmonic balancer off the crank and upper intake off are requirements but neither are difficult to remove or reinstall.
Might be over kill, but I pulled the steering shaft out of the engine bay as well. Two bolts and under a minute to remove and then later reinstall. Easy way to add room to a tight situation.
To complicate things, I've done the remove/install with Torque Monster headers installed which adds to the width quite a bit.
Only place things get crazy tight is the air box/header area (VERY easy to remove the complete air box) and leading edge of the oil sump and the cross member. Radiator needs to be out but the condenser can stay.
Having the harmonic balancer off the crank and upper intake off are requirements but neither are difficult to remove or reinstall.
Might be over kill, but I pulled the steering shaft out of the engine bay as well. Two bolts and under a minute to remove and then later reinstall. Easy way to add room to a tight situation.
#33
They'll absolutely come out and go back in as a mated pair.
To complicate things, I've done the remove/install with Torque Monster headers installed which adds to the width quite a bit.
Only place things get crazy tight is the air box/header area (VERY easy to remove the complete air box) and leading edge of the oil sump and the cross member. Radiator needs to be out but the condenser can stay.
Having the harmonic balancer off the crank and upper intake off are requirements but neither are difficult to remove or reinstall.
Might be over kill, but I pulled the steering shaft out of the engine bay as well. Two bolts and under a minute to remove and then later reinstall. Easy way to add room to a tight situation.
To complicate things, I've done the remove/install with Torque Monster headers installed which adds to the width quite a bit.
Only place things get crazy tight is the air box/header area (VERY easy to remove the complete air box) and leading edge of the oil sump and the cross member. Radiator needs to be out but the condenser can stay.
Having the harmonic balancer off the crank and upper intake off are requirements but neither are difficult to remove or reinstall.
Might be over kill, but I pulled the steering shaft out of the engine bay as well. Two bolts and under a minute to remove and then later reinstall. Easy way to add room to a tight situation.
#35
#37
#38
yeah..i really should go links now that the truck is torn down so far. I just wanted to get the motor in and beat on it for a bit then link it. But maybe I should just try and sell the rear kit and go from there.
engine on the stand is a good thing! if you need any parts for it let me know, I got mine all tore down and I'm not using any of it :)
engine on the stand is a good thing! if you need any parts for it let me know, I got mine all tore down and I'm not using any of it :)
#40
BROKE A BOLT OFF IN THE HEAD. CAN'T BELIEVE IT. It would not budge... Kept creaking it slowly back and forth, sprayed it with PB. Nope. Snap. Upon inspection, it is corroded down to its core. It's the small one next to the front left coolant port, so not surprised.
Torn down as much as I'm going to. Going to clean what I can by hand, throw in the cam and springs, and get her put back together to paint.
Torn down as much as I'm going to. Going to clean what I can by hand, throw in the cam and springs, and get her put back together to paint.
#41
freakn bummer! yeah those damn coolant bolts can be a beach sometimes with what the coolant does to them. Hopefully you get it out without too much trouble. just take you're time and you'll get it.
have any easy outs or drill extractors? otherwise just use a small drill bit and drill through it and work your way up to where you can use a little dental pick type tool to pick the remnants off. then use a tap to clean the threads good.
If either of those don't work just drill it larger through the old threads and re tap it larger and the head and get the larger bolt for it.
have any easy outs or drill extractors? otherwise just use a small drill bit and drill through it and work your way up to where you can use a little dental pick type tool to pick the remnants off. then use a tap to clean the threads good.
If either of those don't work just drill it larger through the old threads and re tap it larger and the head and get the larger bolt for it.
#42
freakn bummer! yeah those damn coolant bolts can be a beach sometimes with what the coolant does to them. Hopefully you get it out without too much trouble. just take you're time and you'll get it.
have any easy outs or drill extractors? otherwise just use a small drill bit and drill through it and work your way up to where you can use a little dental pick type tool to pick the remnants off. then use a tap to clean the threads good.
If either of those don't work just drill it larger through the old threads and re tap it larger and the head and get the larger bolt for it.
have any easy outs or drill extractors? otherwise just use a small drill bit and drill through it and work your way up to where you can use a little dental pick type tool to pick the remnants off. then use a tap to clean the threads good.
If either of those don't work just drill it larger through the old threads and re tap it larger and the head and get the larger bolt for it.
Got everything off the motor and decided to spend some time on the lower intake. Cleaned the hell out of it and did a very mild port and polished the ports some. Cleaned the burrs off and smoothed it out some.
Before
After
Last edited by JB5587; 01-20-2015 at 08:27 PM.
#45
Its now "pitted" because I ground down the burrs which were protruding. Its not smooth like the machined surface above. Its all cast, even inside and looked just like the casting on the outside you can see. Now those are all flush and there are pits left. I'd have to grind down the material the rest of the way all the way around to get a truly smooth surface. Trust me, its 80-90% better than it was and is smooth to the touch.
#46
Its now "pitted" because I ground down the burrs which were protruding. Its not smooth like the machined surface above. Its all cast, even inside and looked just like the casting on the outside you can see. Now those are all flush and there are pits left. I'd have to grind down the material the rest of the way all the way around to get a truly smooth surface. Trust me, its 80-90% better than it was and is smooth to the touch.
#47
#48
Well that bolt was in there quite well... Without mangling the threads more, I had to remove the head to get at it from the other side... What does that mean? It means new heads of course... New as in I'm taking them to the machine shop on Monday for a regrind of the mating surface and valves with a nice clean up. Also having them thrown on the Trick Flow springs for me while they are at it. I already have enough other crap to do now. ARP studs and Fel-pro gaskets on the way. Whats another $475 on top of the $700 over initial "budget", right?
#49
Does anyone have any info on what I can delete or block emission wise? I don't have/need anything to do with emissions on this truck (minus exhaust). I know there is a lot of EGR crap and whatnot all over these engines, and I'm not quite sure what I can get rid of. All evap and fuel related stuff is gone since I use a fuel cell. I don't care if the check engine light is on (already was lit up with my 4.0).
Any input would be appreciated before I start throwing the engine back together.
Any input would be appreciated before I start throwing the engine back together.
#50
I know you can block the egr off with a plate. I would do search on the googles for mustangs or even on the explorer forum. For the most part you can delete it all, just have to block it off in whatever way it needs. just throws codes, but nothing I don't think that messes with how it runs. can always get the computer tuned down the road to remove it all.