03 Ranger swap (and questions!)
#51
I know you can block the egr off with a plate. I would do search on the googles for mustangs or even on the explorer forum. For the most part you can delete it all, just have to block it off in whatever way it needs. just throws codes, but nothing I don't think that messes with how it runs. can always get the computer tuned down the road to remove it all.
#52
#53
Well I've done a LOT of cleaning and painting in the last week. Got everything painted to my choice colors, including hand painting my intake plaque tonight. Everything should look good and flow well without being too flashy or anything. Here's some pics:
And a glamor shot of the cam (now in the block!)
Waiting on new head alignment dowels, then its going together!
And a glamor shot of the cam (now in the block!)
Waiting on new head alignment dowels, then its going together!
#56
Thanks! I thought so as well. Not super pretty up close, but from a couple feet away it works lol
It's an old school grind that has done well for years. There are probably better universal grinds out there now, but the E is proven and does well in the 5.0's. Most people that throw them in an Explorer notice a lot of lost torque down low due to the factory Expo cam being super torquey down low for the big SUV that is supposed to tow and stuff. I have 4.88's in my truck, so bottom end shouldn't be a problem at all. I'm building my truck for the dunes though, so I want the mid-high end power spinning paddles. There should be considerable HP gain from the E cam though.
It's an old school grind that has done well for years. There are probably better universal grinds out there now, but the E is proven and does well in the 5.0's. Most people that throw them in an Explorer notice a lot of lost torque down low due to the factory Expo cam being super torquey down low for the big SUV that is supposed to tow and stuff. I have 4.88's in my truck, so bottom end shouldn't be a problem at all. I'm building my truck for the dunes though, so I want the mid-high end power spinning paddles. There should be considerable HP gain from the E cam though.
#58
So I bought this Ford oil filter adapter since it's listed as a fix for the placement: P/N M-6880-A50, and I'm wondering how it fixes the problem... Do I hook it up to where the factory filter goes? Or do I replace the cooler with it? I'm sure the cooler would stay, but assuming you got a relocation kit, it would be replaced as well. What about the radiator hose? Is there a formed replacement? Any input is appreciated.
#59
So I guess I'm going to return this Ford Racing 90* adapter... After Googling a lot of V8 swaps, it seems like the stock setup works just fine... Not sure why it was listed as a necessity on The Ranger station... I measured as well and it looks like it will clear the steering rack just fine. Only thing so far that I bought beforehand that isn't needed thankfully.
#62
Yeah, nothing needs modifying to fit. Same exact everything as the Explorer. Dropped right in with no problems, and takes up a hell of a lot less space than the 4.0... Not sure what the whole remote oil filter references on those tech articles, but glad the factory fit just fine. Plus I get $89 back.
#66
EDIT: Nevermind! I remember everything after studying the vacuum hoses. I'm still wondering if I can just block the coolant port on the heater hose rail going to the EGR, and then just block the EGR port after removing it... Only thing after that is the small vacuum line to plug going to the EGR, and then plugging the port that goes to evap (I don't have that)
Ok so begins a lot of little questions about things as I hook them up... Heres a few...
Can anyone help identify and let me know which of these I can plug, leave open, remove, etc., for an EGR delete? I've numbered them for easy identification. I'd like to do everything before I get it on there. If possible, it would be nice to know what to do with the attaching lines of each whether it be vacuum or coolant if not just plug them.
THANKS!!!
Ok so begins a lot of little questions about things as I hook them up... Heres a few...
Can anyone help identify and let me know which of these I can plug, leave open, remove, etc., for an EGR delete? I've numbered them for easy identification. I'd like to do everything before I get it on there. If possible, it would be nice to know what to do with the attaching lines of each whether it be vacuum or coolant if not just plug them.
THANKS!!!
Last edited by JB5587; 02-10-2015 at 03:48 PM.
#67
1 is the PCV suction
2 is married to 5
3 is the Evap suction
4 is the brake booster suction
6 is the FPR suction
7 is the shared suction for the EGR, A/C flaps and Evap solenoid.
8 and 9 are water supply and return for throttle body heat (can be omitted or eliminated if you cap off the two corresponding nipples on the hot water rail that supplies water to the heater core.)
2 is married to 5
3 is the Evap suction
4 is the brake booster suction
6 is the FPR suction
7 is the shared suction for the EGR, A/C flaps and Evap solenoid.
8 and 9 are water supply and return for throttle body heat (can be omitted or eliminated if you cap off the two corresponding nipples on the hot water rail that supplies water to the heater core.)
#68
1 is the PCV suction
2 is married to 5
3 is the Evap suction
4 is the brake booster suction
6 is the FPR suction
7 is the shared suction for the EGR, A/C flaps and Evap solenoid.
8 and 9 are water supply and return for throttle body heat (can be omitted or eliminated if you cap off the two corresponding nipples on the hot water rail that supplies water to the heater core.)
2 is married to 5
3 is the Evap suction
4 is the brake booster suction
6 is the FPR suction
7 is the shared suction for the EGR, A/C flaps and Evap solenoid.
8 and 9 are water supply and return for throttle body heat (can be omitted or eliminated if you cap off the two corresponding nipples on the hot water rail that supplies water to the heater core.)
Yeah I was just making sure that there wouldn't be any problems with blocking those coolant ports. I didn't know they were just for the throttle body and the coolant goes in then out just at that spot like it seems. Do you foresee (besides just another CEL) any problems with blocking off the EGR? I'm not sure if the performance will take a hit until I get a tune on my SCT. Thanks for the help. I'm starting on the wiring part here and am waiting for a EVTM, but I'm having a hard time getting my hands on an 03. I'm THINKING of just doing the repinning you posted and hope the 02-03 is the same like it is with pretty much everything else...
#69
I think 7 is the evap hose. I have a pre-disassembled picture showing the hose connecting to the front vertical tube on the intake (#7) and running to the evap purge valve on the driver side fender. Can I block off #7, or is it a pressure system? I don't want to build up pressure anywhere, but I also no longer have an evap valve or any hoses there and the vacuum has been capped going to that.
#70
After messing around with everything, I'm just keeping the EGR. I have a lot of room in the engine bay, and its not bothering anything. When I get a dyno/sct tune, I'll get rid of it. Still having trouble finding an 03 EVTM to do the repinning. I'm going to ask around the forums if anyone can verify that the 03 is the same as others.
#74
ITS ALIVE!!!! Short exhaust video. Its running a bit rough and getting some semi-loud valve train ticking on the left bank, so I didn't run it much or even let it idle. I'll get better video later this week. I'm going to try to get a local Ford guy that knows more than I do to diagnose it as I really don't feel like tearing into the bastard again. And don't mind the mess of wires. Just getting it running.
Thanks for all the help thus far! Especially Win who helped me quite a bit with the specifics even after I PM'ed him a ton!
http://vid97.photobucket.com/albums/...psehcxmiu2.mp4
Thanks for all the help thus far! Especially Win who helped me quite a bit with the specifics even after I PM'ed him a ton!
http://vid97.photobucket.com/albums/...psehcxmiu2.mp4
Last edited by JB5587; 02-24-2015 at 01:27 AM.
#75
Not sure if my temp gauge is working yet since I haven't ran it long at all, but I didn't change anything in my tach and it works with the 5.0 which is cool. Doubt my speedometer will work though. The only thing not working that I can see right away is the oil pressure gauge (oil LEVEL gauge on 4.0 cluster??) It wants to move, but stays near L.