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302 Gurrus needed

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Old 08-02-2010
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302 Gurrus needed

Hey guys so this past weekend I bought myself a 302 for my ranger that will hopefully be going in next summer. I am slowly starting the tear down. I decided to start from the top and work my way to the bottom of the engine. Only thing is tho I can not get the dame upper intake off. there is only 4 bolts holding it on. 2 in the front and 2 in the back. I have tried everything to break the seal but nothing works. How do I get the bloody thing off. I can see the seam between the upper and lower intake all the way around and there are no more bolts holding it on. I got so frustrated with it this afternoon that i wrapped a chain around the upper intake and lifted the whole engine up... nothing happened it is still on. i even tried tapping a flat head screw driver into the seams nothing. How do i get it off.

Also I want to start making plans to produce some power out of this thing. When it goes in I want around 350hp. Let me know what you guys have done to yours and what I should stay away from.


Cheers
Chris
 
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Old 08-02-2010
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I don't know which 302 you have but the sequential 5.0 EFI engines typically have 6 bolts holding the upper to the lower. Look for the other 2 hiding under the plaque on top.
 
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Old 08-02-2010
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Are you serious. there are 2 hideing under that dame thing. sun of a ............ OK well my engine is out of a 82 LTD. it has the same intake as the mustang, explorer, etc etc. So I will have a look at that tomorrow.
 
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Old 08-02-2010
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is it efi or carb? when i changed the intake gasket in my bronk (efi), i'd pretty sure there were 6. if you have that tall intake that is cresent shaped then yes there are 6. you have to look between the intake tubes (i forget the exact name. risers or plenums?) they are hidden but there.

EDIT: there are two types of intake plenums. one is the T shape/ trick flow style found like you said on mustangs and exploders. the other is the one i was refering to is more common for the trucks of that era.
 
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Old 08-02-2010
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It is EFI. no there is only the 2 at the back and 2 at the front. I followed the seam all the way around and there are no other bolts holding it in. That I can see. unless they are under the dame plaque. And if they are I think I might start smoking again.
 
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Old 08-02-2010
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so it's that trick flow style/ T-shape one you have.
 
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Old 08-02-2010
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Ya.
 
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Old 08-02-2010
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i didn't have that one, like i previously noted. i'd go with what bob said.
 
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Old 08-02-2010
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Ya thats what I am going to do. In the morning I am going to run to crappy tire and get the proper Hex that I need to take it off.
 
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Old 08-02-2010
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Yes sir there will be two long bolts under the plaque!
 
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Old 08-02-2010
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....... this sucks. Thanks guys for the info on that. Wish I would have know that sooner. lol. So while we got this page going... what do you guys suggest for power. I was thinking about getting a pro pack from summit with heads, cam, upper intake, better rockers. What else do you guys suggest.
 
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Old 08-02-2010
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That's definitely a good start. Should get you into the 280-290rwhp range!
 
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Old 08-02-2010
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Ya I want to have in the neighborhood of 300-350 rwhp. if possible
 
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Old 08-02-2010
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pro pack with headers might get you close.
 
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Old 08-03-2010
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It could get you up to 300rwhp, but I wouldn't expect any more. Throw a blower on 'er!
 
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Old 08-03-2010
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a lot of the ford guys use the 302 block and the 351 windsor cylinder heads

rear wheel horsepower depends on which camshaft that you install

edelbrock has very good packages that give upwards of 300+ hp
 
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Old 08-03-2010
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I thought the 351W was a longer engine. I did not think that that they would fit on a 302.
 
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Old 08-03-2010
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351 is no longer, just a taller deck height to increase the stroke. 351 heads also have 1/2 inch head bolts which are larger than the 302's. You can use dowels to get the correct alignment and use 302 head bolts.

As for power, I have never seen a Summit branded top end kit before, if you find one make sure to post a link. To get into the 350 range you are talking some work... I would be looking at a nice set of aluminum heads, bumping the compression, and matching the intake and cam for the combo.
 
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Old 08-03-2010
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Ya I pulled the heads off this morning and there is no cross hatching on the cylender walls. It looks like a mirror so I think I am going to bore it out.I am thinking maybe 20 thaw
 
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Old 08-03-2010
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Sounds like this is going to be a very fun truck
 
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Old 08-03-2010
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Originally Posted by ranger4.0
Sounds like this is going to be a very fun truck
Thats what i am shooting for. I will post a list of parts that I am going to be getting for this beast to be.
 
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Old 08-06-2010
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I would bore it 30 over with flat top piston to get compression up to 10:1 with a trick flow top end kit will get you at or above 350 hp. Good luck with your build.
 
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Old 08-06-2010
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Thanks nitro. Ya i was looking at some of the top end kits that summit sells. I think I am going to get the twisted wedge kit. it says that it will put me up in the 370 for torque and in around the 360hp.

My question for you guys is this now. I found out that the engine that I have is a flat tappet. is ther anyway to put a different cam in it so that I can run a higher end cam. I.e roller rocker etc. Also I am going to have to get a whole new computer for it along with wiring harness so i am not worried about trying to make it work with the old computer etc.
 
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Old 08-06-2010
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You can run a roller cam, it has to be a retro fit or a small base circle roller cam with link bar lifters because a flat tappet blocks lifter bores are'nt as tall as a roller blocks. Might be cheaper to get a roller block link bar lifters run $300+. Any other ?s.
 
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Old 08-06-2010
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Originally Posted by nitro
You can run a roller cam, it has to be a retro fit or a small base circle roller cam with link bar lifters because a flat tappet blocks lifter bores are'nt as tall as a roller blocks. Might be cheaper to get a roller block link bar lifters run $300+. Any other ?s.
So you are saying buy a roller block or lifters that would normally be for a roller.
 


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