Got off work too late today to catch the tuner and grab the computer. I'll get it monday after work and crank it up. Thanks Bob, I talked with my tuner and got rid of everything I didn't need. He's a really good guy, glad I have him tuning my stuff. My total tune cost will be $375 and that includes a dyno tune. If I would have kept the explorer computer, I would be looking at $675 because we would have had to use SCT. We are using a 98' v8 mustang computer with Tweecer r/t (I believe that's what he told me) to tune it instead. Keep cost down, and plus he told me I don't really need sct. That it is more complex and more for track guys that go out and run, and then come see him on monday and change settings. He said tweecer is more my style, tune it once and rock out.
Be watching for the fire up video. I know I am getting a little anxious.
Benjy has been going above and beyond for me, but we still can't get it to fire. It turns over al day, but crank. The theft light on the dash is still flashing, which leads me to believe that pats isn't turned off, even though we turned it off in the tune. We have tried 2 different computer with an sct chip. An explorer computer and a 98 mustang computer.
Am I correct in thinkin that it is the pats system since the theft light is just flashing???
Why? I have never heard of this. It should blink every 2 or 3 sec like normal, but not rapidly while the key is in the "on" position. That automatically tells me that something is messed up with the theft system.
Anyways, we were using a moates chip, not sct to try and crank it before (my mistake) and now he ordered an sct chip and is supposed to have it redy for me this afternoon, so when i get off in aabout an hour I am going to ride over there and pick it up and he said this should work for sure.
Same **** different day. What am I missing here. It has got to be something I did wrong. I'm thinking possibly that battery harness splice. The only connector that needs to be changed is the one by the master cylinder correct? Well the explorer has 6 wires and the ranger has 5, which wire needs to be left out? The white and pink or green? The rest of the wires match up with the color. It has to be this. I tried using each one, green and pink, but Idk.
That connector, after my investigation, sends power to the starter, ac low side switch and your ac compressor. I rewired mine and my ac works and the truck starts. Well my ac kinda works lol have a leak somewhere, anyhow... If it cranks, I would say that connector is alright, for the starter anyhow, I'm pretty sure I left a few wires out, the ones that go to the low oil light sensor thing on the oil pan of the v8. Just follow the wires and use common sense to figure out exactly what each goes to. I would think its the pats thats giving you problems. I didn't read the whole thread but I'm assuming you did nothing with the currect pats system and your still using your factory Mazda b4000 key and lock and tumble. When I swapped my pats stuff, it was stupid simple. The thing behind the passenger side air bag was a plug and play, the wiring harness that goes to the lock and tumble was plug and play, and I just popped out the factory lock and tumble and popped the explorer one in, turned the key and vroom. If you don't have the pats stuff from the explorer, it wouldn't be hard to find one at a yard and strip what you need relatively easily.
Yea, but I am already investing a lot of Benjy and myself's time in trying to get this pats system fixed with the tune. I noticed most of these guys use x-cals. I am using a sct chip. It plugs in to the computer. Not under the dash to obd-II port. Maybe that is the problem. Benjy said he went through the entire computer and turned off all the pats he could find. If I can't figure it out tonight, I guess we will start back on it tomorrow and see what we can come up with.
i had a weird thing too, but i ended up just running a new wire to the starter and making a push button start. haven't had a problem. my Pats is off,(confirmed because he forgot in my original tune then he corrected it) and my light blinks when i first turn the key on hardcore, then it slows down to a heartbeat blink.
The pats will allow the engine to crank, but it shuts off the fuel, so it makes sense that is your issue. Since you are using the explorer computer, I would just swap the pats stuff, will take an hour tops and it "should" work.
We have an SCT chip in the computer. Not sure what it is called, but it plugs in to the back of the computer. And he can write up to 7 tunes on it. He is back checking it all out today and I'll update tonight if anything new happens. Thanks guys for the help.
Still couldn't get it to crank. The pcm isn't sending a signal to fuel pump relay. Idk why??? Is that because of the tune? The pump works if I give it 12V. The truck still doesnt run with me manually giving the pump voltage though. Idk if that is because of the PCM or what. The tune should work. Benjy had one of his buddies e-mail him a tune that he used that worked on my exact setup. Any ideas guys?
I am going to pick up an explorer haynes manual in a little while. I keep forgetting that not all the wire colors are going to match up. So I'll do some more trouble shooting with that manual and see what the problem is. It appears I have voltge coming from the PCM when the key is in the on position (checked the wires), but the fuel pump relay needs a constant 12V (it has this), a PCM relay 12V, and then for the relay to switch it needs one more 12V from the PCM itself. Now I have 2, 12V sources at the relay plug when I turn the key on. But the relay doesn't click, i can make it click by sticking the power probe under it and touching two of the terminals together, but it needs to do it on its own. I can also turn the pump on from the relay plug, just give that center terminal 12V and walah it runs. I tried switching relays with ones I knew worked, but still, i got nothing. Is there any wires I need to re-pin in the engine/chassis plug? I can't remember reading anywhere that I did with a 99-01 exploder motor and 99 ranger.
Well, even more damn problems. I accidentaly killed the battery today, recharged it, and now the starter quit working. If i give the start 12v at the relay terminal it works. But the relay won't do it. Even tryed switching to relay that works and it still won't do it. Power makes it to the relay terminal where it is supposed to, but doesn't work with the key. I'm so aggravated with this damn thing. It worked fine 24 hours ago, and now it just randomly doesn't work. Any ideas are welcome. I'm about ready to drop it off somewhere and pay out the *** to get it running.
I'm not sure why your starter quit working. You may be further ahead to get another factory pcm and the pats related things to go with it, put it in the truck, get it running, THEN start playing around with tunes. I'm still 90% sure its the pats not allowing your truck to start. I know this is off another forum but its very informative and it may help you out.