Picked up some Friction additive tmw and rear end is great! You can defintely feel the difference in the 8.8. it feels way more solid. plus its hella heavier so its better for the suspension. Engine is done. minus the alternator, fan/clutch, belt.
I need bolt size help again.
Length of Trans to block bolts. 7/16" x ??
Starter bolts ??
Alternator bolts ??
ok so i know hasnt been much progress. I did get the transmission all cleaned up and painted. looks great. Ill snap some pics when i get home. other than that I have everything I need to do the swap.. well except a engine hoist big enough. Im just gonna rent one of those.
Still need to figure out the small wiring that has to be spliced for the starter harness!
pics of trans. sorry to anyone who is anxious (if any) def done this month!
Really gotta set aside a weekend to get the hoist rented and also line up an exhaust shop.. I really dont want to drive it with open headers but then ill have to tow it, which i dont have a trailer... do know alot of people tho lol well see
thanks man. thats a compliment coming from you lol it was kinda the point actually not only to look brand new but to make install alot easier and God forbid there is an issue it will be easier to find ya know lol
I hear ya. ive been living in palm beach county for 7 of the 9 years ive had my truck so with traffic etc im def over. the manual does sound sick but just wasnt enough pro's for me to stay with it lol.
SO as it sits im Planning on the weekend of the 22nd and 23rd. that gives me next weekend off to relax and get everything situated for the swap.
ANYONE LOCAL OR FROM WHEREVER, is more than welcome to come over that sat to help out or just hang out i really dont care. ill prolly have cooler full of cold drinks and plenty of food on the grill.
You still need an engine hoist? I have one, just need to check the ram and make sure its still good.. I can drop it off either this monday or tuesday after 3 sometime, or after the 19th if you need it.
i have ahoist. problem is th eone i have isnt big enough lol. i need one for big 4x4s. theres a rental place around here im gonn apick up one that is big enought that it has a hitch to tow lol Thanks anyway man!
Few comments from experience:
Definitely install and torque the headers before dropping the engine in. I installed them in-truck the first time, and it was a huge PITA.
The only problems with installing them first is that, at least in my non-body lifted truck, i had to pull the heater/ac box to drop it in. Also, the damn motor mounts are annoying. I set the motor in and go the plates to sit down on the studs. Then lifted the motor back up a half inch or so and started the nuts on the studs, and lowered the motor back down.
TIP: use a tap and die to clean up the motor mount studs and nuts till they finger on easily. Will make your life much better.
Also, the ranger style alternator can be used with a little modification. I have a 200a powermaster alt, and really didnt want to have to buy another. I still have stock valve covers, so i just got out the BFH and massaged the front corner just enough for clearance of the alt. Then I used a piece of 3/16 flat stock to modify the mount: Drilled out the rear hole of the ex mount, welded a stud through the flat stock, and put a nut on the bottom of the mount. Used the stock alt bolts, the two front ones in their stock holes, and the rear one tapped into the flat stock.
I'm actually away from my truck currently, but from what i remember, thats gonna be really tight. The headers were specifically designed for the steering shaft to be in the stock location, and there's not a whole lot of clearance. I seem to remember someone installing a set on a sploader with a BL and having issues, I'll try to find that.
Yah, you're gonna have some issues with the steering. Here is a pic of the steering on a sploader with the 3" BL. Borrowed from 410Fortune on ExplorerForum.com
And his solution: "You can also see the 3" body lift causes the steering shafts to hit right at the TM Header. I plan to physically move the trucks steering wheel down 1" under the dash, I also plan to modify both shafts (from wheel and from box) to help clear the header."
"and finally I made myself a new steering shaft boot and plate assembly for the firewall, to keep the hot air, water, and noise out of the passenger cabin.
this sucker was tricky, took me a couple of tries but the end result is great. Steering shaft BARELY clears the headers, but it clears:" Pic and quote from 410Fortune again
Chris (mudslanger) had no issues at all with his steering so im confused why this just coming up.. we have identical trucks too. all he had to do was swap a smaller bolt on th extension and he was good to go.