5.0L plans
#26
10-08-2009
The 5.0 Ex needs a 164T truck flywheel with 50 oz imbalance. These are not hard to find since they were used in a lot of later model 5.0 F-series. I have one that you can have for the cost of shipping. It is a little rusty and needs to be resurfaced but otherwise looks OK. A local guy here quoted me $50 to grind it.
The manual truck flywheel takes a different starter with a 3/8" shorter nose. The 5.0 Ex automatic starter will not work. You also need the manual truck block plate to match.
The clutch/pressure plate is an 11" truck part, again sourced from a late F-series.
If you need a specific year to order the clutch kit, block plate, starter, slave cylinder or flywheel, just ask for the parts for a 1996 5.0L F250.
The 6 metric sized holes in the 4.2 M5ODR2 bell housing need to be drilled out very slightly to accept the 7/16" 5.0 bolts. The pattern for the bell to the engine block is exactly correct but you may need to add two holes at the bottom of the 5.0 block plate to match the 4.2 bell - neither operation is difficult.
The manual truck flywheel takes a different starter with a 3/8" shorter nose. The 5.0 Ex automatic starter will not work. You also need the manual truck block plate to match.
The clutch/pressure plate is an 11" truck part, again sourced from a late F-series.
If you need a specific year to order the clutch kit, block plate, starter, slave cylinder or flywheel, just ask for the parts for a 1996 5.0L F250.
The 6 metric sized holes in the 4.2 M5ODR2 bell housing need to be drilled out very slightly to accept the 7/16" 5.0 bolts. The pattern for the bell to the engine block is exactly correct but you may need to add two holes at the bottom of the 5.0 block plate to match the 4.2 bell - neither operation is difficult.
#28
10-08-2009
might be a stupid question but since I have to make my exhaust and im not being blessed like Chris' and have the exhaust included can i reuse my o2 sensors? better off just shellin out for new ones huh... on that note. mustangs run catless... since im basically building a mustang engine, would I be ok with running none or 1 cat? def not runnin those stock 4!
I have retained all 4 stock cats and sensors on mine. However, using a properly set up system with just the front two cats along with 2 fore and 2 aft O2 sensors, there will be no check engine light. There's no reason to go totally catless with a stock or moderately built engine.
#29
10-08-2009
The 5.0 Ex needs a 164T truck flywheel with 50 oz imbalance. These are not hard to find since they were used in a lot of later model 5.0 F-series. I have one that you can have for the cost of shipping. It is a little rusty and needs to be resurfaced but otherwise looks OK. A local guy here quoted me $50 to grind it.
The manual truck flywheel takes a different starter with a 3/8" shorter nose. The 5.0 Ex automatic starter will not work. You also need the manual truck block plate to match.
The clutch/pressure plate is an 11" truck part, again sourced from a late F-series.
If you need a specific year to order the clutch kit, block plate, starter, slave cylinder or flywheel, just ask for the parts for a 1996 5.0L F250.
The 6 metric sized holes in the 4.2 M5ODR2 bell housing need to be drilled out very slightly to accept the 7/16" 5.0 bolts. The pattern for the bell to the engine block is exactly correct but you may need to add two holes at the bottom of the 5.0 block plate to match the 4.2 bell - neither operation is difficult.
The manual truck flywheel takes a different starter with a 3/8" shorter nose. The 5.0 Ex automatic starter will not work. You also need the manual truck block plate to match.
The clutch/pressure plate is an 11" truck part, again sourced from a late F-series.
If you need a specific year to order the clutch kit, block plate, starter, slave cylinder or flywheel, just ask for the parts for a 1996 5.0L F250.
The 6 metric sized holes in the 4.2 M5ODR2 bell housing need to be drilled out very slightly to accept the 7/16" 5.0 bolts. The pattern for the bell to the engine block is exactly correct but you may need to add two holes at the bottom of the 5.0 block plate to match the 4.2 bell - neither operation is difficult.
sweet. thanks. I knew that I would have to get a diff starter. Thanks for the year/model truck. ill just get everything for that, minus the trans.!
yea drillin/tappin 2 holes is no big deal. So the block plate is what exactly. im slightly confused. my 3.0 mazda tranny bolted right up to the block.
#30
10-08-2009
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm saying that I have a good reference book that says the 94~95 Cobras and the 5.0 Explorers used the same valve covers. When you add that to the fact that the Cobras had the Ford/Crane 1.7's, it would imply that they should work under the Explorer covers equally well. Like I said, I put one under my stock 99 Ex valve cover for a test and it seemed to clear OK. Again, I have not run the engine with a full set in it yet.
The cam in the Explorers is not a hot rod cam but it is not that bad either. It was released in the 94+ 5.0 E/F/B for improved idle quality but it also makes a few more ponies and is freer revving than the previous 5.0 truck cam.
Keep in mind that the Explorer made a peak advertised HP of 211~215 compared to 205~225 in the injected Mustang HO over the years. Not too shabby for a soccer mom / trailer tow engine. The Ex cam has a little less intake lift compared to the HO but actually has slightly more exhaust lift. Intake duration is less but exhaust duration is the same as the HO.
I'm going to go with the stock Cobra cam and 1.7 rockers in mine. That cam was designed to be used with those rockers and also with the GT-40 type heads and intake manifolds that the Cobra and Explorer share. This combo should have good idle quality and work well with a manual trans. The 94/95 Cobra was advertised at 240 HP but that is considered by many to be a conservative number for that engine.
The cam in the Explorers is not a hot rod cam but it is not that bad either. It was released in the 94+ 5.0 E/F/B for improved idle quality but it also makes a few more ponies and is freer revving than the previous 5.0 truck cam.
Keep in mind that the Explorer made a peak advertised HP of 211~215 compared to 205~225 in the injected Mustang HO over the years. Not too shabby for a soccer mom / trailer tow engine. The Ex cam has a little less intake lift compared to the HO but actually has slightly more exhaust lift. Intake duration is less but exhaust duration is the same as the HO.
I'm going to go with the stock Cobra cam and 1.7 rockers in mine. That cam was designed to be used with those rockers and also with the GT-40 type heads and intake manifolds that the Cobra and Explorer share. This combo should have good idle quality and work well with a manual trans. The 94/95 Cobra was advertised at 240 HP but that is considered by many to be a conservative number for that engine.
great info on the rockers by the way, thanks for clearing up confusion
#32
10-08-2009
sweet. thanks. I knew that I would have to get a diff starter. Thanks for the year/model truck. ill just get everything for that, minus the trans.!
yea drillin/tappin 2 holes is no big deal. So the block plate is what exactly. im slightly confused. my 3.0 mazda tranny bolted right up to the block.
yea drillin/tappin 2 holes is no big deal. So the block plate is what exactly. im slightly confused. my 3.0 mazda tranny bolted right up to the block.
#33
10-08-2009
Substituting the higher ratio arms should give you something noticeable. I couldn't say how much.
#34
10-08-2009
For a 4x4 and/or a moderately built 5.0, I'd prefer the strength of a 31-spline 8.8 from a gen2 Explorer or a Level II. The Level II is a bolt in. The Ex needs some fab work but offers discs.
Ultimate option: Bolt in a Level II axle and bolt Explorer discs onto it. The only real hassle is adapting the e-brake cables.
#35
10-09-2009
thanks... yea i realized what the block plate was pretty quick after i posted. AFA the flywheel. hold onto it for now and if you ever think about pitching it let me know before hand. lol Im just gonna go with the usual 8.8 from an Exp with discs. easy to find. how hard ebrake cable to mod on that one?
#36
10-09-2009
#39
10-09-2009
You'll be removing the Ranger PCM which is the VSS conversion module in your 2001. So, you'll have to substitute something else like a GEM, 4WABS Module or aftermarket converter box to take its place. I think a converter box like the SpeedChanger II is the simplest solution because it comes with actual wiring instructions (!) and because it doesn't take a dealer tool to calibrate.
#41
10-09-2009
#42
10-09-2009
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Apison, TN
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As far as the 1.7 rockers... I put a set on mine, and they made some noticeable difference, but it wasn't a ton. I mean. it sounded exactly the same and everything, just revved slightly faster. But... I am still running stock cast iron exploder exhaust manifolds though 
so that was most likely the major limiting factor there. I put on some aluminum GT mustang valve covers and just modified the valve cover to move the baffle higher. I had no rubbing issues, but the oil filler didn't fit right, and it wasn't such a good fit over all. I ended up taking the rockers back off though b/c they were worn too much and ticked after the engine warmed up. Someday I might get another set though if I can find them for a good price.
so that was most likely the major limiting factor there. I put on some aluminum GT mustang valve covers and just modified the valve cover to move the baffle higher. I had no rubbing issues, but the oil filler didn't fit right, and it wasn't such a good fit over all. I ended up taking the rockers back off though b/c they were worn too much and ticked after the engine warmed up. Someday I might get another set though if I can find them for a good price.
#43
10-10-2009
Back on Axle talk. with the 8.8 and the 5.0 on 35's of course its still going to be my DD. Any ideas of the best all around gear to run? I just went to the local JY today and 8.8's as far as the eye can see. Id like to get one with the right gears right off the lot so I dont have to worry about changing and spending extra money when not needed.
#44
10-10-2009
#45
10-10-2009
#46
10-10-2009
#47
10-10-2009
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Apison, TN
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#49
10-10-2009
#50
10-11-2009
