Okay guys I've done a lot of research on my motor swap and have gotten the whole donor vehicle which was a 99 mercury mountaineer. There is only one thing that i absolutely can not figure out so far and that is there is a oil level sensor on the 5.0 and i need to know if not having the sensor is going to cause any problems i did find out that they sell oil pans without sensor holes which leads me to believe it does not absolutely have to have the sensor to run and operate. Please HELP! Thanks..

 

The oil level sensor (if equipped) goes into the right side of the oil sump.

Best of my knowledge, sensor there on not, the PCM doesn't care, it only triggers an alert on the dash.

 

Yes ^^^
It is for a dash warning light only

 

Okay guys I've gotten the motor rebuild almost done and have gotten. to thinking about the whole set in. Problems I've thought of is how I can Bypass the PATS system (security) so my stock key will crank it and I can use my remote for my door locks. I plan to take it to the dealership and getting the parts introduced but I have a show for a friends mom I want the truck to be in so how can I go about getting around the system and wiring in a switch for the ignition also do I have to have a relocation kit for my oil filter the stock one doesn't have the oil cooler but it isn't very short. Please help ASAP

 

Wire in the PATS module from the Expo/Mounty

Zip tie the Expo/Mounty key inside the Expo/Mounty transceiver and plug that into the Ranger in lieu of the Ranger's transceiver in the steering column.

Just leave the Ranger's transceiver in place and when you get new keys, swing the plug for the transceiver back to the Ranger's.

OH! Wait a second! Your '99 Ranger should have the same PATS as the '99 Mounty if it's a 6 cyl, or no PATS if it's a 4.

If 6, simply zip tie the Mounty key in the Mounty transceiver, plug that into your harness in the steering column and swap PATS modules in the dash.

If yours is a 4, you'll need to wire in both the transceiver and module

 

Okay guys so I have 3 days to get this thing back together and on the road but I have a huge problem.I can't remember how some of the vacuum lines and some of the plugs went being i had to take a month break on the build due to work. If any one has any schematic on this stuff it would be extremely helpful.

 

For the vacuum lines:

1 is the PCV suction
2 is married to 5
3 is the shared suction for the EGR, A/C flaps and Evap solenoid. -- On the EGR solenoid, the suction connects to the lower nipple on the valve, the upper nipple goes to the EGR valve itself.
4 is the brake booster suction
6 is the FPR suction
7 is the Evap suction
8 and 9 are water supply and return for throttle body heat (can be omitted or eliminated if you cap off the two corresponding nipples on the hot water rail that supplies water to the heater core.)

 

Ok so I've got the truck running and everything. It's running lean so I'm trying to find out what's causin that but I tried to switch the wire that makes the tach read right that I read about in amother thread and now I can't roll my windows up my speedometer doesn't work and my dome light doesn't work plus the fuse isn't blown. Any ideas on what could cause this

 

Running lean because fuel trims are +15 or higher, or actually running Lean because engine is pinging/knocking?

If it is just fuel trims or codes then engine is running OK but MAF sensor air flow data is sending computer a lower air flow than the intake is actually getting.
Computer calculates the 14:1 ratio of fuel needed based on MAF air flow, if air flow data is wrong then O2 sensors see that as too much oxygen in exhaust so computer adds more fuel, +5, +10, +15, ect...fuel trim and then computer sets Lean code because original calculation is Lean, not the actual engine operation.
The engine is not running Lean because computer is adding the extra fuel needed, but computer is warning the driver of a problem of incorrect data.

Any "extra" air entering the intake from MAF sensor to intake valve ports will cause this, commonly called a vacuum leak, although it can be on MAF sensor air plenum.
MAF sensor could just be dirty, it should be cleaned every now and then.

Low fuel pressure can also cause this, '99 engine computer would expect 70psi fuel pressure, it can't monitor pressure, it bases its fuel calculations on 70psi, so opens fuel injectors for a specific time(pulse width) knowing X amount of fuel will be released if there is 70psi of pressure at the injector.
If pressure is lower then less fuel goes in and O2 sensor reports that, so +5, +10, +15, ect.....fuel trims and Lean code set.

O2 sensors are the final say as far as the computer is concerned, so it trims the fuel accordingly, on a V engine there would be two O2 sensor used by the computer for fuel trims, one on each bank, there can be other O2 sensors by the Cat converters but these are not used for short term fuel trim.
If you only have a Lean(or Rich) fuel trim on one bank then it could be a faulty O2 sensor, but could also be a misfiring cylinder on that bank(that shows as lean).
If both banks/O2s are showing similar fuel trims then it won't be an O2 sensor issue

 

For the electrical issues, think I would start by reversing the wiring mod for the tach.

If things start working correctly, an incorrect wire was moved, if not something else was disturbed while dokng the mod. At least you'll be in the right area to look. Maybe at the ignition switch itself?