351 into a Ranger
#1
351 into a Ranger
Ok before you all get excited I am just thinkin about it and need some input.
I have access to a complete 351 out of a 1990 F150 with the trans and trasfercase. The guy that has the truck thinks its an AOD and maybe a NP208?
He said he would help me put it in, has put several engines into trucks/cars. Several 302s in rangers. He races and knows ALOT about engines/cars/trucks.
Any rate there are a few things that I need help on.
I dont need abs no need to worry about that
PATs I am sure this wont work any more right? If not how would I make it start?
I am pretty sure none of my gauges will work, correct?
What else may or may not work? Is it possible to get some of this to interface?
I know there are a ton of questions and things I probably have not thought about. Lets just start with the basics in this thread though.
thanks
I have access to a complete 351 out of a 1990 F150 with the trans and trasfercase. The guy that has the truck thinks its an AOD and maybe a NP208?
He said he would help me put it in, has put several engines into trucks/cars. Several 302s in rangers. He races and knows ALOT about engines/cars/trucks.
Any rate there are a few things that I need help on.
I dont need abs no need to worry about that
PATs I am sure this wont work any more right? If not how would I make it start?
I am pretty sure none of my gauges will work, correct?
What else may or may not work? Is it possible to get some of this to interface?
I know there are a ton of questions and things I probably have not thought about. Lets just start with the basics in this thread though.
thanks
#2
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If I remember correctly from Bob's swap, your speedo should still work correctly because it is connected to the rear axle. Engine temp and oil pressure should be an easy fix, you could probably get an adapter to incorporate the Ranger's temp sensor and oil pressure sensor into the 351.
The only thing (as far as gauges) that I can see being a problem would be your rpm gauge, I'm not sure about that one.
Would your suspension be able to handle the extra weight up front?
The only thing (as far as gauges) that I can see being a problem would be your rpm gauge, I'm not sure about that one.
Would your suspension be able to handle the extra weight up front?
#3
is the motor EFI?? If it is EFI it has a computer, so I would THINK you should be able to adapt the harness and maybe get some of the guages working... You could... As far as the ignition set up a button to turn the stater over. Guy I went to HS with had a bronco and he would turn the key on to acc. then he would have to push the cigarette lighter in to actually start the truck, the key wouldn't start it, pretty trick i though!
#4
#5
is the motor EFI?? If it is EFI it has a computer, so I would THINK you should be able to adapt the harness and maybe get some of the guages working... You could... As far as the ignition set up a button to turn the stater over. Guy I went to HS with had a bronco and he would turn the key on to acc. then he would have to push the cigarette lighter in to actually start the truck, the key wouldn't start it, pretty trick i though!
#8
#9
That is what I am SLOWLY working on. You are best off converting the 351W to work with Explorer 302 electronics and going that route.
For the engine, you need the following:
- custom cam sensor / oil pump drive. bascially take the cam sensor from a 302 explorer engine and graft on the bottom od the 351W distributor. This is to allow the 5/16" hex drive for oil pump as opposed to the 1/4" hex drive of the 302. Pretty easy for a machine shop to do.
- custom damper / crank pulley / crank position sensor ring. This is tricky. Either A) have an explorer sensor modified to 28oz imbalance for the 351W, B) have the 351W rotating assembly balanced to run the 50oz explorer damper and 28oz flexplate, or C) have a custom assembly made with a 351W damper, 94-95 mustang GT crank pulley (not cobra), and explorer exciter ring with adaptor. I did option B, a buddy of mine did option A and another (Don) did option C. All are acceptable.
- If you have A/C, you will need a custom cross over hose, due to wider spread between the heads.
- Use explorer 302 wiring and sensors with a custom tune.
For mounting, you can use explorer 302 mounts and plates.
You are in MUCH better shape with the SFA, as you can just use a 351W truck ot mustang swap pan, not a custom job like I had to. You can also - potentially - get away wihtout having custom headers. Check out a few of the mustang sets. My main troubles that drove to custom headers were the upper a-arm mounts and the front diff. carrier. You may just have to do some minor frame trimming.
For trans, I recommend getting an explorer 302 transmission (4R70W). It will work with the t-case from your donor or you can get a 1356 / 4406 from a newer F150 / Expedition and it will work with your current dash mounted selector switch!
If you go this route, all options and funtions / gages will work. PATS, cruise, AC, etc.. Most hoses (P/S, radiator, etc.) and cables (cruise / throttle) from explorer will work perfectly.
For the engine, you need the following:
- custom cam sensor / oil pump drive. bascially take the cam sensor from a 302 explorer engine and graft on the bottom od the 351W distributor. This is to allow the 5/16" hex drive for oil pump as opposed to the 1/4" hex drive of the 302. Pretty easy for a machine shop to do.
- custom damper / crank pulley / crank position sensor ring. This is tricky. Either A) have an explorer sensor modified to 28oz imbalance for the 351W, B) have the 351W rotating assembly balanced to run the 50oz explorer damper and 28oz flexplate, or C) have a custom assembly made with a 351W damper, 94-95 mustang GT crank pulley (not cobra), and explorer exciter ring with adaptor. I did option B, a buddy of mine did option A and another (Don) did option C. All are acceptable.
- If you have A/C, you will need a custom cross over hose, due to wider spread between the heads.
- Use explorer 302 wiring and sensors with a custom tune.
For mounting, you can use explorer 302 mounts and plates.
You are in MUCH better shape with the SFA, as you can just use a 351W truck ot mustang swap pan, not a custom job like I had to. You can also - potentially - get away wihtout having custom headers. Check out a few of the mustang sets. My main troubles that drove to custom headers were the upper a-arm mounts and the front diff. carrier. You may just have to do some minor frame trimming.
For trans, I recommend getting an explorer 302 transmission (4R70W). It will work with the t-case from your donor or you can get a 1356 / 4406 from a newer F150 / Expedition and it will work with your current dash mounted selector switch!
If you go this route, all options and funtions / gages will work. PATS, cruise, AC, etc.. Most hoses (P/S, radiator, etc.) and cables (cruise / throttle) from explorer will work perfectly.
#10
THanks Todd I was hoping you would chime in. He didnt make it seem like it would be that hard. I will bring these points up with him. With all that stuff I think it is going to be over budget for this year but i think i will still buy the truck and do it next year.
When you say all this 302 stuff seems like it would just be cheaper to find an explorer and forget the f150
What about fuel stuff? It would be great if I could make all the stuff on the inside work like stock
When you say all this 302 stuff seems like it would just be cheaper to find an explorer and forget the f150
What about fuel stuff? It would be great if I could make all the stuff on the inside work like stock
#14
#18
#19
All you need is a real t-case.
http://www.stak4x4.com/3speed.htm
or
http://www.atlas-tc.com/atlas4sp.html
http://www.stak4x4.com/3speed.htm
or
http://www.atlas-tc.com/atlas4sp.html
Last edited by casfz1; 02-04-2008 at 06:22 PM.