Long Travel 302 swap - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


8-Cylinder Tech If you are one of the few with a V8 engine in your Ranger, or if you dream of a Ranger with a V8 engine, this is the sub-forum for you.

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  #26  
Old 04-05-2015
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Thanks win. I'll check it out.
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  #27  
Old 04-08-2015
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So I'm attempting to register my truck in Vegas before I do this swap. My smog is due in cali and of course a couple days ago when I got my smog paper in the mail the truck started misfiring on cylinder 3. I have swapped plugs, wires, coilpack, injectors. Still missing. Checked compression on 1,2,3 on the 3.0 and they are all about 120. I can't seem to figure out wtf is wrong and I don't want to spend money getting the engine overhauled when I'm about to dump so much into the 5.0L.

Problem is Vegas wants 1 initial smog and inspection before I can register it there and not have to worry about it after, but it won't pass as of right now.

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Old 04-08-2015
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Originally Posted by bravetitan24 View Post
Yes sir!!! I've got an Eagle rotating assembly in mine.

Really jealous of the BTF spindles. Trying to decide if I should break out the cash for their kit or go with Camburg. The Dana snouts are tempting me to go with BTF though, even though I'd probably be fine with the stock ones.
My camburgs will be up for sale shortly if you want them :) They have snouts pressed in already too.
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  #29  
Old 04-08-2015
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Originally Posted by Prerunner-Ranger View Post
So I'm attempting to register my truck in Vegas before I do this swap. My smog is due in cali and of course a couple days ago when I got my smog paper in the mail the truck started misfiring on cylinder 3. I have swapped plugs, wires, coilpack, injectors. Still missing. Checked compression on 1,2,3 on the 3.0 and they are all about 120. I can't seem to figure out wtf is wrong and I don't want to spend money getting the engine overhauled when I'm about to dump so much into the 5.0L.

Problem is Vegas wants 1 initial smog and inspection before I can register it there and not have to worry about it after, but it won't pass as of right now.

Spark, at the right time
Fuel, in the right mix with air
Compression, above 140psi

That's the big 3

3.0l should be above 160psi
Did you remove all the spark plugs before compression test?
That allows crank to get up to speed for accurate compression reading, you should get 3 or 4 "hits" before you stop cranking.
When you just pull one spark plug to do compression test the numbers are often too low to see a difference.


Double check firing order, then check it again, lol.
Ashamed to say how many times I KNEW FOR A FACT, it was right, and it was WRONG, lol.

What does #3 spark plug look like, the old one and the new one?

Spray some staring fluid around #3 lower intake manifold, could have a lean misfire from air leaking in.
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  #30  
Old 04-08-2015
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My camburgs will be up for sale shortly if you want them :) They have snouts pressed in already too.
PMed you about them.
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  #31  
Old 04-10-2015
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Originally Posted by RonD View Post
Spark, at the right time
Fuel, in the right mix with air
Compression, above 140psi

That's the big 3

3.0l should be above 160psi
Did you remove all the spark plugs before compression test?
That allows crank to get up to speed for accurate compression reading, you should get 3 or 4 "hits" before you stop cranking.
When you just pull one spark plug to do compression test the numbers are often too low to see a difference.


Double check firing order, then check it again, lol.
Ashamed to say how many times I KNEW FOR A FACT, it was right, and it was WRONG, lol.

What does #3 spark plug look like, the old one and the new one?

Spray some staring fluid around #3 lower intake manifold, could have a lean misfire from air leaking in.
Thanks Ron. I'm going to mess around with it this weekend and I'll double check all this out.

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PMed you about them.
Replied.
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  #32  
Old 04-10-2015
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Last edited by Prerunner-Ranger; 04-13-2015 at 01:00 PM.
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  #33  
Old 04-10-2015
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I take it you don't have GT40P heads? I believe they started in 97.5 and on. If you do, I wouldn't worry about getting new ones unless you were going to get crazy with the rest of the engine. Otherwise, I think you have a nice set of parts on that list.
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  #34  
Old 04-10-2015
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Originally Posted by bravetitan24 View Post
I take it you don't have GT40P heads? I believe they started in 97.5 and on. If you do, I wouldn't worry about getting new ones unless you were going to get crazy with the rest of the engine. Otherwise, I think you have a nice set of parts on that list.
Actually I think I do... I need to take a second look.
GT40P heads over alum?
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  #35  
Old 04-10-2015
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Originally Posted by Prerunner-Ranger View Post
Actually I think I do... I need to take a second look.
GT40P heads over alum?
There are pro's and con's to the iron vs. aluminum, but for performance alone, the p's flow well enough to handle most airflow you can throw its way in terms of basic bolt-ons.
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  #36  
Old 04-10-2015
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Actually I think I do... I need to take a second look.
GT40P heads over alum?
I'd say yes as long as you're keeping the build pretty mild because the GT40P heads are actually really good. You can have a shop do a port and polish job on them, and you'll be fine for what you're doing right now. IMO you couldn't really justify the cost of aluminum heads right now.

FWIW, I kept the stock heads on mine and don't plan to upgrade them until I go with a bigger cam, injectors, etc. later on. The stock heads can handle a good bit of mods you can do to the rest of the engine.
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  #37  
Old 04-10-2015
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I would agree, aluminum heads are a weight saver, but in a Ranger it won't make much of a difference.
Aluminum also brings another issue, you need to use MLS(multi-layer steel) head gaskets because aluminum expands faster than the iron block when heated, this causes "rubbing" on the head gasket, composite gaskets can fail from this rubbing.
And not that any one plans to overheat an engine, but with aluminum heads it will be an almost 100% failure of a head gasket, MLS or composite, if that happens, expansion rate is just very high with coolant temp above 250deg., iron heads give you a 50/50 chance.

MLS gaskets have their own issues with cold seal, they can leak coolant when engine is cold, lol, aluminum shrinks faster than the iron block, these problems have all been addressed but why bother if the GT40P heads get the job done.

Aluminum block and aluminum heads don't have the issues, since expansion rates are equal.

Last edited by RonD; 04-10-2015 at 11:47 AM.
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  #38  
Old 04-10-2015
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Thanks guys.

What do you recommend for the pistons? Do you recommend I just re-ring the stock ones if they are still in good condition or get some new stock ones?
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  #39  
Old 04-10-2015
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I've gotta admit, with the money not spent on aluminum heads, I'd be VERY tempted to do a stroker kit!

Basic 331 or 347 kit is under a grand, add in a Expo specific harmonic for $200 and you're still in the same ball park as the cost for the heads.

Getting the block bored .030" over and then clearancing for the rods won't add a ton of cost or time either.

You could always play with the heads/manifolds later with the engine still in the Ranger.
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  #40  
Old 04-10-2015
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Originally Posted by win View Post
I've gotta admit, with the money not spent on aluminum heads, I'd be VERY tempted to do a stroker kit!

Basic 331 or 347 kit is under a grand, add in a Expo specific harmonic for $200 and you're still in the same ball park as the cost for the heads.

Getting the block bored .030" over and then clearancing for the rods won't add a ton of cost or time either.

You could always play with the heads/manifolds later with the engine still in the Ranger.
Everything is sooo tempting lol.

Last edited by Prerunner-Ranger; 04-13-2015 at 12:59 PM.
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  #41  
Old 04-17-2015
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Came home from a long work week to some packages !!!





Still waiting on the 347 stroker kit, edelbrock intake, comp cam, and a few other odds and ends. Finally made up my mind, and I only want to do this once, I don't want to take it back apart later to upgrade. Here goes nothing.
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  #42  
Old 04-17-2015
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Nice! This is going to be awesome!
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  #43  
Old 04-17-2015
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I'm excited. Going to start pulling **** off the explorer tomorrow to start parting out and listing on eBay. Hopefully can pull the engine this weekend, if not next.
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  #44  
Old 04-18-2015
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Ya know, since you don't really want to do it twice, I'll help out.

Build the engine and ship it to me. I'll install it in my Ranger and let you know how it goes.

Then, you can simply build another with any lessons learned and only do one install in yours!

juss sayin!

Have you found a 28oz harmonic balancer solution for the for the Explorer FEAD? Only off the shelf one I've seen is from Damperdudes.net. Finding a solution with the right counter weight, inductor ring and drive pulley for the stroked Expo 5.0 is not likely to happen at your local O'Reilly's!
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  #45  
Old 04-18-2015
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Ahha come to cali you can drive it I don't care.

I picked up this one:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-80007

Will it not work? Why 28oz vs 50oz? Is it just an issue getting the actual pulley to bolt up?

Last edited by Prerunner-Ranger; 04-18-2015 at 11:53 AM.
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  #46  
Old 04-18-2015
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Your stroker kit should have the specifics but the ones I've looked into all call for the "old school" 28 oz harmonic, not the later 50 oz.

With the Expo 5.0 EFI and FEAD on a stroked block, you'll need three things down at the front of the crank.

A Inductor ring for the EFI system
A stoker kit spec harmonic (never seen one call for a 50 oz)
A pulley correct for the rest of the FEAD.

Best I can tell, the one from Summit does not have even a shoulder to fit the inductor ring on, is 50 oz convertible to 0 oz but probably would accept the Cobra pulley for the FEAD.

I'm no stoked 302 guru, but I don't think that one is what you need.
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  #47  
Old 04-19-2015
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Your stroker kit should have the specifics but the ones I've looked into all call for the "old school" 28 oz harmonic, not the later 50 oz.

With the Expo 5.0 EFI and FEAD on a stroked block, you'll need three things down at the front of the crank.

A Inductor ring for the EFI system
A stoker kit spec harmonic (never seen one call for a 50 oz)
A pulley correct for the rest of the FEAD.

Best I can tell, the one from Summit does not have even a shoulder to fit the inductor ring on, is 50 oz convertible to 0 oz but probably would accept the Cobra pulley for the FEAD.

I'm no stoked 302 guru, but I don't think that one is what you need.
Thanks win. I'll try to find out more info on this. I'm going to take the block and everything to machine shop so I'm hoping when they get everything installed and cleaned up on the block they will know which damper I need.
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  #48  
Old 04-19-2015
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Progress pics:




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  #49  
Old 04-19-2015
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I like the way you "added room" to pull the 5.0!

Assuming that huge adjustable was to get the fan clutch off the water pump?

Oh yea, we need to talk about your choice of beverages -- at least get something with TASTE!!!!!!
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  #50  
Old 04-19-2015
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Random, kinda off topic but question popped up in my head when looking at these pictures. Can you use the hood struts from an explorer to put on a ranger? Or are the mounting positions different from ranger to explorer?

Looking good though!
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