Compared to a more recent automatic, a C4 or C6 will hurt you on fuel economy - no overdrive gear and no lock up converter. Both are good, simple, proven transmissions. A C4 that was built for a factory V8 app would be strong enough for your small block but the C6 is stronger yet.
If you get the correct length AA kit (there are three) for the C4, you should be able to run with a stock Ranger 1354 t/case and stock driveshafts. Lots of V8 Ranger swaps have gone this route successfully. Just remember that the stock Ranger case was designed for the torque of smaller displacement engines.
Another option is to run a larger t/case from a fullsize pickup that would bolt up to a 4x4 transmission, also from a fullsize. You'd need 2 custom driveshafts and there could be frame clearance issues. Examples of F/S Borg Warner cases would be the 1345, 1356, 4406 or 4407. There are also other brands that will bolt up to a Ford F/S 4x4 transmission. I'm running a BW4406 in mine.
ok, another reason im wanting to run wit the c6 trans is i tried and hooked up my transfer case motor just for the heck of it to see if it still work with out the transmission, well it went into 4lo and is stuck in there it does not want to come back out , i pulled out the wiring diagrams and was looking around and im almost 100% sure that i will not be able to use my electric one and would have to get a manuel one,,,correct, and with the c6 how many clearenace problems you think i will run into with the transfer case?
I don't know about the C6. I have a 4R70W. The BW4406 F/S transfer case bolted right up to the transmission but the t/case runs close to the driver side frame rail and the slip yoke is close to the nose of the fuel tank. I might have been able to run it in the stock mounts but it just seemed too close to me. I modified the Ex mounts to move the the engine/transmission/transfer case 1/2" to the passenger side and give the clearance I wanted for the t-case and slip yoke.
These two pictures show what the clearances looks like after I moved the powertrain over.
[If you want to see what the clearance looks like with the 4406 mocked up into the stock mount position, check out TMSOKO's photos.]
Bottom line: if you want to run a F/S t/case in a Ranger, forget about it being a bolt-in installation. It will require some head scratchng and some custom parts.
Also, the C6 is physically larger than a C4. Unless you have a body lift, you maypossibly run into clearance problems from the transmission itself to the tunnel. Or it could move the transfer case even farther back and cause problems. I don't have any specific info on any of that, just something that occurred to me.
One more thing: if you want to use a manual t/case, make sure that the extension housing of the 4x4 trans has the cast-in mounting bosses for the linkage. You'd be in a world of hurt without those mounts.
If you haven't already, you might want to read through my V8 project thread. A lot of what we've discussed is in there and it might answer some more of your questions.
alright, i have read your 5.0 swap several times and theres a ton of great info on there. ok, if you were to go and pick any type of trans for the type of instal i am doing what would it be, and why would you choose this and how much wiring would be needed etc? i am open to many things if it will improve the quality! thanks again
I would use a 4R70W with Baumann TCS since you are not using the EEC-V. The Baumann is a stand alone controller for the electronically controlled trans. The 4R70W is a very strong trans and has O/D for street use. Can be built to handle plenty of power.
Simplest installation in a 99 Ranger:
302, 4R70W, AWD transfer case and peripherals all from a 99~2001 5.0 Ex.
Easiest wiring, easiest mechanicals, as close to plug and play as you can get.
If you want to do the more difficult carbed V8 swap:
1) C4 for simplicity OR
2) 4R70W for fuel economy and lower highway revs. You'd need to wire it w/Baumann electronic control unit as Todd said above - probably not that difficult using their harness. Explorer 4R70W's were improved sometime in 98, so I'd look for 99~2001.
To get high and low ranges in the t/case:
1) use an AA adapter, C4 or 4R70W and stock Ranger T-case OR
2) Substitute a BW4406 manual case. Using a 4R70W, you'd need a 97~03 F150 front shaft and modified Ranger rear shaft.
alright and the bw 4406 (or is it the bw 1350) manual case came out of what year rangers? and when i go to the junk yard are there any other cases that i should watch out for that AA makes an adapter for a C-4
Expedition/Navigator came with electric 4406 and 97-2003 F150's (especially 4.2L) may have the manual 4406. These should bolt up to the above transmissions, as long as they are from a 4x4 and have the 31-spline output shaft. As Andy said, avoid the electric version of the 4406 unless you are looking for an electronics project.
Yeah because i had a electric 4406 from an expedition and it wasnt looking too fun to figure out. It needed alot of custom wiring to figure out etc. The manual was a bolt it option with just about a 6"x4" hole or so in the floor. And you can pick up the boots needed to finish the job, as well as the shift linkage from most junkyards.
I believe Bob had the part numbers to get new shift boot parts from ford on his thread.
alright, so the easly year rangers had the 1350 trans case and the newer ones came out wit the 1354 transfer case, im asking cause im heading to the junk yard very soon(soon as it stops raining a bit and the ground dries up) So if i pull the entire transfer case and the shifter i would be in buisness correct, besides cutting a hole in my truck(easy part), if you have any other pointers or things you would do, let me know and thanks again!!!
4.0 Rangers and 4.0 Explorers have had only the 1354 since the 4.0's introduction in 1990 or 1991. Some sources say that the smaller Ranger engines switched from 1350 to 1354 a few years later, not sure when. 1354 electric transfer cases are generally easier to find than the manual 1354's.
Over the years, 1354's have had several variations in output hardware and speedometer drive. It would be good to do some research at TRS before you go out junkyarding. Look under Tech Library->Transfer Cases->Identification. There's a chart at the bottom of the page.
thanks for that page i guess the best thing to do now is examine my case over real good and take some pictures and run to the junk yard and see what i can come up with, thanks again bob, im sure to have a few dozen more questions coming soon!!! thanks again
quick question, i went and got me a explorer radiator, now the two lines coming from the transmission, does it matter which spots on the radiator that i attach them to, or it does not make a difference? i was asking cause i was not sure if the flow direction would make a difference!!
i could be wrong , but when i pulled it i remember(could be wrond) but the two trans lines being on the driver side one on trhe bottom and on on the top! does that sound right or have i got my lines all mixed up, or would it be better to run a different cooler for the trans and not use the one from the explorer radiator, just use the small trans radiator that came with my truck!