My 5.0L swap attempt :)
#477
As long as you have no DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) the you will pass. Actually, they will be testing it to ranger standards, and since you have no O2 sensors behind the last 2 cats, you can remove them with no issues. Im not trying to persuade you to take them off, Im just saying that it won't throw any codes without them. Actually, I have to pass emissions too, and I have not cats, and for some reason it doesn't throw codes for that. They do look under the truck for the converter, so I tack welded a heat shield from a cat to one of the pipes to fool the inspector and make them think it has one on it. But they just do an OBD2 test like you mentioned, so as long as I have no codes and they think it has cats, then it passes.
#478
There are a few more sensors on the engine harness: MAF sensor, Intake Air Temp sensor, 2 coolant temp sensors (one for the PCM, one for the gauge), Crank Position Sensor. Besides sensors, there are connections for the Idle Air Control valve, 2 coilpacks, radio noise capacitor, alternator, A/C compressor clutch plus the large connectors to the PCM and the transmission subharness.
#479
Engine Coolant Temp Sender (gauge): screws into the intake manifold DS near the #5 injector. Tan connector, single signal wire, case ground.
Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (PCM): screws into the hex t-fitting on the heater pipe PS near the #1 injector. Gray connector, 2-wire (signal and PCM-supplied ground).
#480
Other years may be slightly different but here's how my 99 Ex 5.0 is set up:
Engine Coolant Temp Sender (gauge): screws into the intake manifold DS near the #5 injector. Tan connector, single signal wire, case ground.
Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (PCM): screws into the hex t-fitting on the heater pipe PS near the #1 injector. Gray connector, 2-wire (signal and PCM-supplied ground).
Engine Coolant Temp Sender (gauge): screws into the intake manifold DS near the #5 injector. Tan connector, single signal wire, case ground.
Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (PCM): screws into the hex t-fitting on the heater pipe PS near the #1 injector. Gray connector, 2-wire (signal and PCM-supplied ground).
Bob you think thats just because where I have it. Sensor might work better in a coolant tube on the in side right?
#481
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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As long as you have no DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) the you will pass. Actually, they will be testing it to ranger standards, and since you have no O2 sensors behind the last 2 cats, you can remove them with no issues. Im not trying to persuade you to take them off, Im just saying that it won't throw any codes without them. Actually, I have to pass emissions too, and I have not cats, and for some reason it doesn't throw codes for that. They do look under the truck for the converter, so I tack welded a heat shield from a cat to one of the pipes to fool the inspector and make them think it has one on it. But they just do an OBD2 test like you mentioned, so as long as I have no codes and they think it has cats, then it passes.
#482
The mirror under the truck is the "tampering inspection," they do that here too, and I passed with no cats lol. However, if you got them, and can get them all i there, use them. It isn't gonna hurt your power or Fuel Mileage.
#484
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So its at the exhaust shop, the final 2 cats welded on, Y pipe to SI/DO flowmaster 40 series muffler the 2.5in pipes dumped in where the spare tire used to be. The truck isnt done yet or running right. Im running REAL rich. I think i need to swap out the fuel pressure regulator from the explorer in to my truck. That will be done next week hopefully.. It also doesnt help that I have close to 800lbs in my bed right now lol...
The efan is holding up REALLLL well with the ranger radiator. I havent had any cooling problems what so ever!! Ill keep an eye on the temp gauge anyway! Just gotta work out the kinks and hopefully ill have it perfect by the end of next week!
The efan is holding up REALLLL well with the ranger radiator. I havent had any cooling problems what so ever!! Ill keep an eye on the temp gauge anyway! Just gotta work out the kinks and hopefully ill have it perfect by the end of next week!
#485
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#487
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#490
65 +/- 8 PSI
1998~2000 Ranger 3.0L Flex-fuel:
55 +/-8 PSI
1998~2000 Ranger (exc. Flex-fuel):
64 +/-8 PSI
2001~2009 Ranger (all):
60~65 PSI
#491
#492
98-back EFI Explorers and 97-back EFI Rangers use a return-fuel system with a vacuum contolled regulator at the fuel rail. These systems typically run around 30 PSI at idle and 40~45 PSI at WOT (zero vacuum to the regulator).
#494
Yes, and if you don't use the return (or gets kinked like in my recent situation) it will run run rich and have poor idle qualities. But the funny thing is, according to the mileage computer, I was getting better mileage with the return pinched? Looks to me like it would've been worse since it was forcing extra fuel into the engine...
There's a fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail. Check you pressure with a gauge and see if it's too high.
There's a fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail. Check you pressure with a gauge and see if it's too high.
#495
#497
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Im gonna swap it out anyway.. Maybe im just smelling it pretty badly because i was pretty much running open headers? I had no back pressure it seemed like.. and 800 pounds in the bed lol I seriously need to take that motor out the back of my truck lol
#498
#499
The numbers that I posted from the Shop Manuals say that it should be running lean (~55 PSI being supplied to an engine calibrated for 65 PSI). You should set it up to run the Explorer pressure. Swapping the FPR should do it assuming that it fits.