forgive me for this as you may have coverd this already. the eng in question is a roller cam 5.0 mustang converted to carberation with electronic dis. if the distribiture on this eng is from a reguler 302 like a 70s or early 80s it WILL NOT work with a roller cam because the teeth on the dist. are cut at a different degree than the teeth no the cam. don't get me wrong it will run fine at first but over a short time the timming will begin to fluxeuate. when you nail it off the line it will go like hell untill it hits around 2500 then it will falllon it's face. the proper dist. for this is for the 85 / 86 5.0 HO mustang carberated. Autozone had one listed in there parts inventory about 10 years ago for $149.95 i do not recall the part # but i will also say do not use the brass gear they will try to sell you to convert yours because it will come apart under pressure. been there done that. cost me an eng.
actually they're cut at the same angle, its just that roller cams are ground on steel blanks while flat tappet cams are ground from iron blanks. Iron (non roller cam) gears don't last long when meshing with a steel cam. The distributor needs to be from a 5 speed 85 Mustang as these used a Durspark ignition with a roller cam. Automatic 85 Mustangs had cfi and flat tappet cams. The 86 had efi with a TFI distributor :)
i looked at the plugs and they was alittle white and the power valve was not working. so i did a new one. the front jets was a 75 and the rear was 78. i changed the front ones to the 78 and did 80's in the rear. also my fuel pressure was lower than i liked so i raised it to 6.5psi it was just alittle over 5 psi. i am just running the water pump and alt and it was running hot then i like so im going to get a a/c delete kit and rerun the belt.
i had that problem with the f 150 wrong distibutor . i did a msd pro billet distibutor for a roller cam. not sure where the one that was in it but it was locked out so i changed it.
trans king called today and say the tranny was junk. they said 700.00 to fix it and it will be done in a few days.
Just as an FYI I got a TCI C4 in mine and it runs great, paid $800 from streetside delivered to my door
i looked at the heads i did not see e7te on them. it would be on the front part of the head right. its been a look time since i seen a stock head.
There should be a "T" cast into the head on the outside of the V-cover that you can see and that should help you at least find out if they are truck heads as the E7 were. The car heads have a "S" cast into them that you could see. This doesnt mean that you have E7's but its a good chance that you do.
i been working on the truck. i added a pulley set up and i was checking the timing but all i have is a cheap light so i dont think it working. its saying my timing is @ like over 20 but it runs ok and starts good so i dont think its that high. i turn the dist more and its running better. it was running about 800 rpms and when i gave it more timing it went up to about 1800 rpms.
i changed to a single plane torker intake. i looked at one plug and it looked like the jet change worked. i have a few other things im doing so and im start working 7 12s next week so i will be some time before it goes back to the track.i just hope it runs better
i got it running today and it runs better and the rpms goes up faster now.im going to wait to take it to the track to c if it does better. i have stock heads on it so for now im not going to port anything now.
we took it to the track last week and blew a head gasket. we did not even get to make a pass. i called around and most of the places i called was waiting over 500.00 for some stock heads. so i found some pro comp 210 heads for 820.00 so i got them on the way. its going to take some time to get it back together but i sure hope it runs better.
i have changed a few things on the truck. i changed intakes to a victor jr. i got my bigger headers done.
i did some valve covers, changed the breather on the truck. went to a electric water pump drive and change the alt bracket.