Hey how's it going guys been lurking on the forum for some time now I'm getting ready to do my v8 swap I have a couple questions to help prep my surgery so I have a 01 xlt 2wd 3.slow coil over suspension and I am in between a 97 or a 98 explorer which would be easier to swap and what extra things do I need ie engine brackets injectors pats I've been searching but there's really not a lot of 01 coil over swaps and where to order the parts thanks for the help

 

Personally, I'd say pre-PATS 96/97 and adapt the fuel system is the way to go.

Your 01 expects a speedometer signal from the PCM and the 96/97 VSS fills that bill.

To use a later Expo 5.0 would simplify the fuel pressure and return issues but adds both the PATS and ABS (for speed signal) complications.

Strada Shop over at Ranger Power Sports still had some mounting plates or simple flat plates of steel will work.

Check out my "Lessons Learned" thread on putting a 96 Expo 5.0 into my 02 3.0.

 

Thanks for the reply yea I knew the engine mount and fuel line were gonna need to be dealt with also what wires need to be re pinned and am I going to need a drive shaft or is it the same length

 

For my '96 Expo powered '02 I only found a few needed changes: Your 01 should be identical.

I built an "extension cord" using a male/female 42 pin connector from a breakers yard. Did all the mods in the extension.

On the 42 pin engine harness/body harness plugs:

For the starter -- Pin 28 Ranger end to ground, Leave Expo end open.

Speedometer signal -- Pin 13 Ranger end open, Expo end to ground.

Also,

Temp gauge: Reuse the Ranger 2 wire sensor as a 1 wire. Looking into the sensor connector, clip catch on top, use the right pin in the sensor.

Tach: at back of gauge cluster move pin 8 on the 10 pin connector to slot 16 on the 16 pin connector

Only other wiring changes are for the A/C clutch relay/WOT relay -- actually needs more changes to get the a/c to work than the rest of the engine harness!

I've an extended cab Ranger and had to go with a custom drive shaft (ended up a 2 piece). I think there's a fair chance the std cab Ranger could use the Expo's drive shaft since the wheel bases are so close between the two.

 

Ok guys update I picked up a 99 Eddie bower explorer so I know the fuel system should be good I'm planning on doing the swap this weekend im trying to think of all the things I will need my ranger is extended cab so I will probably need a new drive shaft but other than that Its the spring suspension so I will need motor mounts is anyone still making them and also as far as pats and wiring and speed sensors what will I need to do what is the process

 

Your 01 Ranger expects the speed signal to come from the PCM which processes a signal from one of the internal transmission sensors.

The 99 Expo gets its speed signal from the ABS system.

So, with the 99 Expo 5.0 in your 01 Ranger, you'll be without a speed signal.

Think you've got two options, maybe only one.

If possible, you might be able to add in an earlier VSS, it's a mechanically driven signal generator from the old school speedometer drive gear at the output shaft of the transmission.

Other option is to graft in parts of the Expo's ABS and Inertia/G-force sensor.

PATS -- easiest answer is to graft in the Expo's PATS module and transceiver. ZIP tie the Expo key into the transceiver and simply bypass the Ranger's PATS transceiver in the steering column altogether.

Strada Shop over at Ranger Power Sports was sill selling the adapter plates, or I've got some dimensions for a flat set of flat plates. The flat plates will raise the engine up about 3/8" from the Stada Shop ones but that will only add clearance at the rack and pinion unit.

Some great guides:

Everything you wanted to know about PATS - Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums "Serious Explorations"®

Swapping An Explorer 5.0L In To A 1998-Up Ranger

2001 Ranger 5.0l Swap Wiring Guide!!!!

 

Those are great links thanks another thing I know I need motor mounts but how about the transmission mounts will those bolt up

 

The 4R70W from the Expo bolted right onto the original 3.0 auto box's transmission cross member.

 

Ok so the speed sensor is on the axel of the explorer and its on the tranny of the ranger so since I'm swapping engine and trans what if I swapped the axel to and used the speed sensor would that work

 

Nope, both axles use the same sensor and ring.

The Expo's ABS module processes the signal from the rear axle into a usable speed signal for the dash, PCM and cruise control.

Oh yea, think its the 2.5l I4 Rangers of similar years to ours that use the GEM to process the ABS signal into a speed sigbal. Grafting in one of those would work too. Unlike the V6 Rangers, the 2.5's PCM does not process a signal from the trans into a speed signal.

 

I started stripping the truck now and I can't find those motor mounts from strata shop do you have the dimensions of the flat plate I'll just mill that out

 

Sure! I've got them on my computer at work, currently in a Microsoft format.

Will see what my options are to export to a more forum friendly format or other option,

Will get to them on Monday.

 

Ok, a day late, sorry 'bout that.

 

Thanks this is a life saver I'll be putting the 5.0 in this weekend got everything out so these were def needed

 

The explorer has disc brakes in the rear can I take those off and put the on my ranger axel or will I have to swap the whole axel

 

You'd be better off just swapping the axle, especially if you have a 7.5 rear end. Ford didn't use the 7.5s for the 5.0 and neither should you.

 

Thanks so my next questions the motor is almost in but the oil pan doesn't clear I read I need a rear sump oil pan is this correct and also referring to pats I just need to plug the explorer transponder and transciever in and tape the explorer key to the transciever or do I need to rewrite some things

 

Don't think there are any perfect answers for the oil pan.

I've been assured that the OEM Explorer pans work, but only if you lower the engine into the bay without the transmission attached -- else at the angle need to get the transmission down and into the tunnel, the leading edge of the pan bottom hits the cross member.


The generic rear sump pan fits OK, but it's front bulge is deeper than the Expo's and causes problems with the rack and pinion. Also, the Expo cat's won't clear the generic rear sump on the left side without heavy re-shaping of the sump.

My solution was to reshape a steel Expo pan, moving that leading edge of the lower sump just about to the drain plug. I used a rear sump oil pick up or would have needed to mod the Expo pick up as well. I'm not a welder by any means so I brazed the cuts and splices and had a heck of a time with the heat causing cracks in the steel, often quite far from where I was brazing. Took 4 or 5 tries to get the pan liquid tight (and nearly a half pound of brass rod!)

 

PATS is going to be a bit more complicated -- Your Ranger originally used the sensor at the key and the PCM. The Expo adds the PATS module that's buried above the glove box.

You'll need to wire in both the module and the key sensor to the PCM with the key zip tied in the sensor. The actual details on how are detailed in one of the links I'd posted a few weeks ago.

 

That's right I checked out the link I got it **** that's a pain so the oil pan I believe is to deep the sump clears but the smal part is to deep I believe it's hovering the engine about 1/2 a inch above the motor mounts so maybe I'll just have to do some reshaping 🔨

 

I was able to use the stock oil pan, but I also had to shim the engine up a little for the headers to clear my steering shaft. The oil pan would've been really close to hitting (or may have hit) the rack if I didn't have to use any shims on the engine.

I bought a SCT x4 and bypassed PATS with a tune. It's an expensive route to take if you're keeping a "stock" setup, but I needed the tuner anyway because of the mods.

 

Thanks guys for the help I'll try shimming the engine and see how it goes the way it's sitting now I have the tranny mounted but the front of the engine there's not enough clearance for the radiator so I'm gonna try to scoot it back a little more and see how it goes I'd love to use the tuner but for now I'm just gonna wire in the pats to save money

 

So where is the g force module located on the explorer

 

Also just kinda brainstorming if I decide to just go carberated can I still use the transmission

 

There are a couple non-EFI controllers for the 4R70W transmission, but the prices are shocking. Call it the better part of $850 to $900 for the privilege of using the modern transmission with a carb.

Pretty sure that last sensor for the ABS system is under the drivers seat, possibly under the floor below the seat.